markys

Collect my new STI Saturday, how should the car be run in ? Most new cars dont such a long period to run in.

Dark

iTrader: (1)

Subaru recommend that you take it very gently for the first 1k miles. Don't take it beyond 4k rpm, be gentle on the brakes, don't rush gear changes, etc.

Use this time to learn the car, it's very different to any previous Impreza.

Subaru then specify an oil and filter change at 1k miles. After this you should be in a much better position to enjoy the car!

I believe that Subaru deliver the cars with a very thin oil to aid running in. This oil has poor performance at high temps and if you do thrash the car you could damage the engine.

Subaru dealers have been know to immediately replace the oil in their demo cars with the usual semi-synthetic oil to prevent engine damage on enthuastic test drives!

Most people agree that Impreza engines need 5k miles to loosen up fully. You might also want to consider changing the engine oil every 5k miles rather than the 10k miles specified by the service intervals, especially if the car sees hard or track use.

Personally I found the engine on my STI to be very tight for the first 1k miles and the gearbox to be very tight for the first 2k miles. Now at 2.2k miles and very happy!

Enjoy!

Mark

Chip

Apparently Keith Price garages have blown the engine on there demo car. Dont know why though.

Chip.

Stevie

I was made to sign a disclaimer saying I understood I could not exceed 4000rpm for 1000miles, except in an emergency.

Did not stop from being pulled at 90 in a 40 whilst running in though. Thought it best policy not too mention to Plod I was still running it in and took my bollocking gracefully

BTW, I was accelerating from 40 in roadworks towards national speed limit sign on a lightly trafficked motorway so it was not totally stupid, just marginally.

For reference, silver/grey 5 series, M5 alloys, V*** VCC around M6/M5 area. Went past him three days later, waved and the good boy waved back

Neil Smalley

According to my dealer, Subaru have issued a notice stating that the running in schedule MUST Be adhered to. This is the first such notice like it that's been given, they usually say running in is highly recomended not mandatory as in the STI's case.

What i've always wondered is what defines an emergency? An emergency blat down a slip road?, Emergency full bore start?, Emergency Can I break my best time down this B road session?. I guess it means sustained higher than 4K revs, rather than a few seconds.

The 4K limit is driving me potty though. Only 200 miles to go....

T5NYW

iTrader: (4)

Another midlands company also had one blow but that was 6th to 3rd instead of 5th by mistake Scoob engines don't like 18,000 rpm

Yes run it in properly 4000k is still 95mph but a lot slower to get there

first 20 miles i stopped and smoke came out fo front scoop panic over they spray over the whole engine compartment with Vasoline horrible muck

Had the 1000 mile service getting engine oil smells in cabin ???? have they spilt some on filling or removing oil filter

Tony

Stevie

Neil, trust me, it is worth the wait

I had the buzzer at 3800rpm, went to 4200once and 4500once, the latter to avoid a potential head on collision!!(if ever speed limits are enforced by GPS there will be carnage and the government will be sued for involuntary manslaughter quite regularly, imho)

Told the dealer in case they were able to check and get the miseries at a later stage.

Dave T-S

Ran Carolyn's in - 1500 miles to Austria and back 95% of which was at 3500 rpm in 6th on French/German/Swiss/Austrian motorways LOL

Setting the buzzer is very helpful, the odd revs over 4000 won't hurt but labouring it - 2000 rpm in 6th going up hill or similar - WILL!

Andy W

Blatantly copied and pasted from another Thread from a few months ago, this was the advice of Mike tuckwood.


"Semi-synthetic oils are not as good at lubricating as fully synthetics[1] and allow this gentle wear/bedding in to happen, it needs some time to do that though so as close as possible around the 5k miles area, longer if possible. (The 1K running in period only deals with the first major part of this process).

Moving over to a fully synthetic too early will markedly reduce/stop the bedding in process, sometimes to the extent that the peaks can be sufficient so that the oil control ring on the piston allows a larger than normal (particuarly in the bores), amount of oil to sit in that trough.

This then gets burnt off in the cylinder during the combustion process, (we're talking minute amounts here so don't panic). Higher than average oil consumption can be an indication that the above process has not been followed religiously."

(taken from http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...threadid=76536 )

I had a semi synthetic put in mine and intend to change it to fully synthetic at about 5k

[Edited by Andy W - 4/18/2002 8:24:55 PM]

Harry_Boy

Interesting stuff Andy - I'm assuming this is applicable to the MY02 WRX as well.

russell hayward

"first 20 miles i stopped and smoke came out fo front scoop panic over they spray over the whole engine compartment with Vasoline horrible muck"

Tony, I think that's cosmoline mate.

I am still getting the pong at 1500 miles so dont worry.

mcactive

take to the track.

Razor2001

So after the first 1,000 miles go to semi synthetic 15 - 50 sae, then at 5,000 miles go to fully synthetic 15 - 50 sae (I live in Nassau, Bahamas hot temperature and 100% humidity at times) ????

Big thx
Ray

RT

I have heard *Unconfirmed* reports from an Australian source that running the JDM STI's hard before the run in is complete may result in cylinder #3 seizing, thereby wrecking the engine and your day.

This is supposedly due to the extra-close tolerence that they've built into the engine bores, piston rings etc to improve performance and reduce noise/heat. I know at least one JDM car in Oz that suffered such an engine failure (broken con-rod due piston seized) due to redline running before 1000miles.

20000kms and still running in!

urban

iTrader: (1)

Guys

My dealer has also told me that the car MUST be run in properly, and that I HAVE to take it easy for the first 1K miles.

They have had a bulletin in from subaru regarding this.

I'm collecting mine in about 4 hours from now, so I too will join the 1K wait.

Shaun

RT

FWIW, I'd really recommend extending the std 1000mile (1600km) run-in. I know its tough and everyone wants to "give it a go", but the fruits of a good run-in are for you to reap later on.

If I could do it again (with this knowledge and advise from the factory), I'd have taken her to 5000kms before opening giving her WOT.

Dave T-S

Due to the 1.7 bar boost spikes caused by the decat exhaust , it was over 2600 miles until we got back from Austria, removed the decat, could take the rev limit buzzer off and drive Carolyn's properly

speedking

Agree 100% with RT.

My 205 running in went
<1000 miles <4000rpm
<2000 <5000
<3000 <6000
<4000 <7000
>4000 unlimited.

Now after 150,000 miles the engine still pulls nicely, although a little smoky on the overrun, and I'm on the original clutch

A disciplined running in regime won't really affect your day to day driving and you will reap the rewards in future, unless it's a company car.

Chins

If I waited untill 5000km I'd never know how fast any of my Scoobies were . It would take me 4 months before opening her up !!. Two stamps in the log book, and Ive owned it far too long

Jonathan

Danny Fisher

Drive it like its stolen. That my moto....

Dan

Dave T-S

Fishface

Back to the Muppet forum where you belong....

Diesel

Running in is an apparently totally commercial ploy by manufacturers to minimise wear and therefore minimise any future ‘usage’ liability on motor warranty claims - this is according to my mate Dr Garel Rhys at UCW Cardiff.

The best way to bed in a 4 stroke piston engine is to use good oil, and to minimise mechanical drag. This equates to revving it. The higher an engine revs, the shorter the time a non-smooth mechanical part gets to be in touch with another mechanical part. This way an engine runs in quicker and better.

Lets face it, these mechanical parts face each other all day long, and going quicker or slower (given a good oil, and operating temperature) will make no difference whatsoever.

Hope that kills the manufacturers myth, and explains why a VTEC engine runs in in half the time...

D

Dave T-S

Diesel

I think there may be some truth in what you say - it has been suggested that thrashing an engine whilst running in makes for a quicker car (knocks the knobbly mating engine bits off quicker!) - but ultimate engine life may be compromised.

Neil Smalley

I'm told, that for motorbikes the way to run them in, is as diesel says. BUT the engines don't tend to last very long. I guess it depends on how long you keep the car for, and how clear you want your concience to be on selling it on(I.e flog it knowing that you've not run it in properly).

The car may get faster, earlier by not running in properly. But a properly run in car will still develop the same power more miles down the road.

What's a 1000 miles below 4000 revs anyway(apart from a blummin long time when you've got a 6 speed box ) In anycase, by following the makers instructions(be they for safety, marketing or otherwise) you've covered yourself against them claiming you had'nt obeyed the instructions and so are liable for the full cost of the engine rebuild.

RT

You pays your money, you makes your decisions.

I know of case(s) with an apparently brand new MY01 JDM STI with nothing but a decat exhaust engine up with a jammed #3 piston. Not just one, but "more than one". Obviously, Subaru is worried about something - otherwise they wouldn't have issued that advisory.

Anyway, if anyone here's gets an unexplained engine failure (hopefully not! fingers crossed...) on a very new car, or hears of one, please post the details. Am sure all of us could use this info!

Dave T-S

RT

Yep, we have heard the same engine failure rumours here (global communications, eh ) - I have a thread in the drivetrain forum trawling further info.....

T5NYW

iTrader: (4)

I ran mine in beep set 0-400m 3.6 krmp, 400-800 3.8Krmp 800-1002 4Krpm. Afer service originally set it at 6.5krpm but taken it down to 6krpm till 1.5Kmiles then 7k at 2kmiles then switch it off and wait for PPP
I will however get the oil changed when PPP'd and have that done ever 6 months I personally think the 12 months will be tooooooooo long a gap for the cars performance IMHO after all its only £59 materials and 1 hours labour which aint much in the scheme of things

Tony

russell hayward

Buy your own oil and get it for half the price......

Neil Smalley

Do that and you could well wreck your warranty

It's a shame, because before getting new cars I always did the oil myself

russell hayward

What I meant was supply your own oil to the Dealer, they actually do the work.

As long as it is IM approved (ring before hand to confirm) then there is no problem.

I really object to being charged £40 odd for semi synth Helix !!