clutch return spring
29 January 2011, 09:23 PM
#1
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clutch return spring
hi,ive already searched all over the forum for this but would still like other opinions.
the clutch return spring which is located under intercooler on a classic sti dosent actually do what it is called does it?
ive had a new clutch and flywheel fitted and clutch operates perfect apart from if i give it beans in the higher gears it tends to not fully return,it only returns about half way up which is just above biteing point.
ive spoke to a subaru specialist (clutch was fitted by them) as i noticed the spring was missing under intercooler.
but they say that this spring dosent return the pedal and that some subarus have them and others dont!
this is most probably not related to the problem.
its along way to drive back to get them to put it right and alot of hassle/fuel costs etc.
can someone please explain why a clutch return spring dosent do what it says?
also,why would it be necesary to adjust pedal rod when the car was not doing this before?
i personally think it is something small and im probably capable of sorting it but i dont want to start messing with something that i havent a clue about.
i dont want to drive all the way back there to think,wtf??? 2 min job which i could have done....
i know many others have suffered from this commen problem,so i thought it might be worth raising another debate!
any help would save alot of pissing about,thanks.
the clutch return spring which is located under intercooler on a classic sti dosent actually do what it is called does it?
ive had a new clutch and flywheel fitted and clutch operates perfect apart from if i give it beans in the higher gears it tends to not fully return,it only returns about half way up which is just above biteing point.
ive spoke to a subaru specialist (clutch was fitted by them) as i noticed the spring was missing under intercooler.
but they say that this spring dosent return the pedal and that some subarus have them and others dont!
this is most probably not related to the problem.
its along way to drive back to get them to put it right and alot of hassle/fuel costs etc.
can someone please explain why a clutch return spring dosent do what it says?
also,why would it be necesary to adjust pedal rod when the car was not doing this before?
i personally think it is something small and im probably capable of sorting it but i dont want to start messing with something that i havent a clue about.
i dont want to drive all the way back there to think,wtf??? 2 min job which i could have done....
i know many others have suffered from this commen problem,so i thought it might be worth raising another debate!
any help would save alot of pissing about,thanks.
29 January 2011, 09:37 PM
#2
Because the subaru classic has a pull type clutch it needs the spring to hold backward tension on the clutch arm as release bearing has got free play once engaged with the pressure plate,so in other words it takes up the slope really.
On the clutch staying half mast id say it needs a bleed mate as when you first press the clutch pedal on installing the clutch it can need 1 or 2 full strokes to push the slave piston on to the clutch fork/arm and can draw alittle bit of air in past the seals and subaru's in my experience are quite sensitive to air in the clutch system,when bleeding it can help alot to pump pedal as normal but lift back up very slowly to allow the fluid to stay directly behind the piston.
On the clutch staying half mast id say it needs a bleed mate as when you first press the clutch pedal on installing the clutch it can need 1 or 2 full strokes to push the slave piston on to the clutch fork/arm and can draw alittle bit of air in past the seals and subaru's in my experience are quite sensitive to air in the clutch system,when bleeding it can help alot to pump pedal as normal but lift back up very slowly to allow the fluid to stay directly behind the piston.
29 January 2011, 09:47 PM
#3
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Because the subaru classic has a pull type clutch it needs the spring to hold backward tension on the clutch arm as release bearing has got free play once engaged with the pressure plate,so in other words it takes up the slope really.
On the clutch staying half mast id say it needs a bleed mate as when you first press the clutch pedal on installing the clutch it can need 1 or 2 full strokes to push the slave piston on to the clutch fork/arm and can draw alittle bit of air in past the seals and subaru's in my experience are quite sensitive to air in the clutch system,when bleeding it can help alot to pump pedal as normal but lift back up very slowly to allow the fluid to stay directly behind the piston.
On the clutch staying half mast id say it needs a bleed mate as when you first press the clutch pedal on installing the clutch it can need 1 or 2 full strokes to push the slave piston on to the clutch fork/arm and can draw alittle bit of air in past the seals and subaru's in my experience are quite sensitive to air in the clutch system,when bleeding it can help alot to pump pedal as normal but lift back up very slowly to allow the fluid to stay directly behind the piston.
thanks,but i am 99.9% sure that the specialists that fitted it all would definetely have bled the system properly as they have probably done about 1 million clutches on scoobs.
im not saying it dosent need a bleed but very very unlikely that these guys have slipped up on that one!
it only does it now and then in the higher gears under heavy load.
the same company fitted a new clutch and flywheel on my old wagon and had exactly the same problem for around 2-3 weeks and then it sorted itself out
but a couple months after that the clutch release bearing clip failed and lost all drive as clutch pedal completely stuck to the floor.
i mentioned this to them as they have said that the pedal behaveing as it is would moreless definetely not be related to the release bearing failure that occure.im a little worried because this cost me £180 to get the car transported back to them to get sorted.
i do not want a repeat of that.
its just ennoying that it will probably be something silly and it will cost me a day off work(as im self empoyed),fuel costs and hope that it will be sorted in the one day,(while i wait), or i will have to also pay another load of fuel costs to run another vehicle to collect me!
29 January 2011, 09:55 PM
#6
hi,ive already searched all over the forum for this but would still like other opinions.
the clutch return spring which is located under intercooler on a classic sti dosent actually do what it is called does it?
ive had a new clutch and flywheel fitted and clutch operates perfect apart from if i give it beans in the higher gears it tends to not fully return,it only returns about half way up which is just above biteing point.
ive spoke to a subaru specialist (clutch was fitted by them) as i noticed the spring was missing under intercooler.
but they say that this spring dosent return the pedal and that some subarus have them and others dont!
this is most probably not related to the problem.
its along way to drive back to get them to put it right and alot of hassle/fuel costs etc.
can someone please explain why a clutch return spring dosent do what it says?
also,why would it be necesary to adjust pedal rod when the car was not doing this before?
i personally think it is something small and im probably capable of sorting it but i dont want to start messing with something that i havent a clue about.
i dont want to drive all the way back there to think,wtf??? 2 min job which i could have done....
i know many others have suffered from this commen problem,so i thought it might be worth raising another debate!
any help would save alot of pissing about,thanks.
the clutch return spring which is located under intercooler on a classic sti dosent actually do what it is called does it?
ive had a new clutch and flywheel fitted and clutch operates perfect apart from if i give it beans in the higher gears it tends to not fully return,it only returns about half way up which is just above biteing point.
ive spoke to a subaru specialist (clutch was fitted by them) as i noticed the spring was missing under intercooler.
but they say that this spring dosent return the pedal and that some subarus have them and others dont!
this is most probably not related to the problem.
its along way to drive back to get them to put it right and alot of hassle/fuel costs etc.
can someone please explain why a clutch return spring dosent do what it says?
also,why would it be necesary to adjust pedal rod when the car was not doing this before?
i personally think it is something small and im probably capable of sorting it but i dont want to start messing with something that i havent a clue about.
i dont want to drive all the way back there to think,wtf??? 2 min job which i could have done....
i know many others have suffered from this commen problem,so i thought it might be worth raising another debate!
any help would save alot of pissing about,thanks.
29 January 2011, 09:55 PM
#7
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he does not think that that is likely to be the problem!
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29 January 2011, 09:57 PM
#8
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I don't think they did anything wrong ate as i also have fitted to many clutched to mention[run my own workshop]but the little slow up take on bleeding trick was only learned or rather needed when i had the very same problem your having now when i refitted my forged engine with new clutch
29 January 2011, 10:03 PM
#9
Can only tell you what we did 
We also adjusted the pedal rod, but as good as damn returned it to where it was within a week The clutch settles down IMHO but I'd want the spring on for piece of mind
From a start point my spring wasn't put back on by the last specialist I used (lazy !) while still on my previous clutch. I didn't notice until it was changed which makes me think the worn clutch toward the end of it's life needed little assistance. On the new clutch I think perhaps it's more important but I am making thought out assumptions I wouldn't suggest I am more qualified to comment over your fitter.
We also adjusted the pedal rod, but as good as damn returned it to where it was within a week The clutch settles down IMHO but I'd want the spring on for piece of mind From a start point my spring wasn't put back on by the last specialist I used (lazy !) while still on my previous clutch. I didn't notice until it was changed which makes me think the worn clutch toward the end of it's life needed little assistance. On the new clutch I think perhaps it's more important but I am making thought out assumptions I wouldn't suggest I am more qualified to comment over your fitter
.
29 January 2011, 10:12 PM
#10
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Can only tell you what we did We also adjusted the pedal rod, but as good as damn returned it to where it was within a week The clutch settles down IMHO but I'd want the spring on for piece of mind
From a start point my spring wasn't put back on by the last specialist I used (lazy !) while still on my previous clutch. I didn't notice until it was changed which makes me think the worn clutch toward the end of it's life needed little assistance. On the new clutch I think perhaps it's more important but I am making thought out assumptions I wouldn't suggest I am more qualified to comment over your fitter.
We also adjusted the pedal rod, but as good as damn returned it to where it was within a week The clutch settles down IMHO but I'd want the spring on for piece of mind From a start point my spring wasn't put back on by the last specialist I used (lazy !) while still on my previous clutch. I didn't notice until it was changed which makes me think the worn clutch toward the end of it's life needed little assistance. On the new clutch I think perhaps it's more important but I am making thought out assumptions I wouldn't suggest I am more qualified to comment over your fitter
.2.... rod adjustment? can u tell by looking at it wether it needs adjustment?
is there anything that i can **** up by adjusting it?
29 January 2011, 10:16 PM
#11
If you over adjust it you can have the biting point to high and end up having alot of clutch slip when changing gear,which could lead to premature clutch failure.
If you haven't got any experience on it i would leave alone but if you are confident then just adjust it small amounts at a time.
If you haven't got any experience on it i would leave alone but if you are confident then just adjust it small amounts at a time.
29 January 2011, 10:18 PM
#12
No it just increases or decreases the play before the bite point. Increasing the play should in theory allow it to clear the bite point more sufficiently where you describe it's not returning properly. Personally I would leave it for a week, put the spring on and put some miles on the clutch. It will ease for want of a better word with usage. Mine was the same going from a standard Classic clutch to a slightly larger Pink Exeedy with LWFW, so I wouldn't be too concerned Mine is all good now, even if the torque slightly overwhelms the bite on full beans sometimes.
Mine was the same going from a standard Classic clutch to a slightly larger Pink Exeedy with LWFW, so I wouldn't be too concerned Mine is all good now, even if the torque slightly overwhelms the bite on full beans sometimes.
Last edited by 53; 29 January 2011 at 10:19 PM.
29 January 2011, 10:22 PM
#13
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If you over adjust it you can have the biting point to high and end up having alot of clutch slip when changing gear,which could lead to premature clutch failure.
If you haven't got any experience on it i would leave alone but if you are confident then just adjust it small amounts at a time.
If you haven't got any experience on it i would leave alone but if you are confident then just adjust it small amounts at a time.
what do i look for and what would i do? which way and what will need adjusting?
never done it before but im willing to do it if it saves me a load of hassle and cures the problem,thanks for your help so far.
i think i will order the spring from stealers aswell.
29 January 2011, 10:26 PM
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No it just increases or decreases the play before the bite point. Increasing the play should in theory allow it to clear the bite point more sufficiently where you describe it's not returning properly. Personally I would leave it for a week, put the spring on and put some miles on the clutch. It will ease for want of a better word with usage. Mine was the same going from a standard Classic clutch to a slightly larger Pink Exeedy with LWFW, so I wouldn't be too concerned Mine is all good now, even if the torque slightly overwhelms the bite on full beans sometimes.
Mine was the same going from a standard Classic clutch to a slightly larger Pink Exeedy with LWFW, so I wouldn't be too concerned Mine is all good now, even if the torque slightly overwhelms the bite on full beans sometimes. it is the exedy pink box kit and flywheel from lateral which has just been fitted.
29 January 2011, 10:27 PM
#15
If you look up by the pedal box at the clutch arm you will see that the arm is threaded and passes through a bracket which is pinched in place with 2 14mm nuts which you break the lock of and rotate out towards yourself to extend the rod which in turn will reduce clutch pedal travel.
29 January 2011, 10:33 PM
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No it just increases or decreases the play before the bite point. Increasing the play should in theory allow it to clear the bite point more sufficiently where you describe it's not returning properly. Personally I would leave it for a week, put the spring on and put some miles on the clutch. It will ease for want of a better word with usage. Mine was the same going from a standard Classic clutch to a slightly larger Pink Exeedy with LWFW, so I wouldn't be too concerned Mine is all good now, even if the torque slightly overwhelms the bite on full beans sometimes.
Mine was the same going from a standard Classic clutch to a slightly larger Pink Exeedy with LWFW, so I wouldn't be too concerned Mine is all good now, even if the torque slightly overwhelms the bite on full beans sometimes. 
30 January 2011, 09:42 PM
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thanks for all your help guys,but this time i think i will have to bite the bullet and take it back to the specialists as i dont want to do anything im unsure of.
think ill probably order the spring anyway, does anyone know the subaru part number for a 1998 v4 sti type r? ill get it ordered asap.just need part number.
thanks again
think ill probably order the spring anyway, does anyone know the subaru part number for a 1998 v4 sti type r? ill get it ordered asap.just need part number.
thanks again
31 January 2011, 08:04 PM
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Had this on my V5 type r, kept having to pull my clutch pedal back up with my foot cause it was sticking half way. Looked under the bonnet, clutch "RETURN SPRING" had vanished,probably after a lauch, went down to subaru ordered a new spring albeit £10, fitted it, never happened again!!!!!!!!
Sorry to be blunt but the spring is fitted for a reason and that job is to return the clutch pedal to the top, your specialist is right, not all subaru's have them. That would be the automatics!!!!!!!
Stop been tight go and buy a new spring then come on here and tell us we were all right
Sorry to be blunt but the spring is fitted for a reason and that job is to return the clutch pedal to the top, your specialist is right, not all subaru's have them. That would be the automatics!!!!!!!
Stop been tight go and buy a new spring then come on here and tell us we were all right
31 January 2011, 09:34 PM
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Defo the spring, happened on my 93 wrx, again only when giving it beans. Clutch pedal only returned half way then had to flick it back up with my foot. Ordered a new one from Import Car Parts, arrived the next day and job done. Suprising how a little spring can make all the difference.
31 January 2011, 10:00 PM
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Had this on my V5 type r, kept having to pull my clutch pedal back up with my foot cause it was sticking half way. Looked under the bonnet, clutch "RETURN SPRING" had vanished,probably after a lauch, went down to subaru ordered a new spring albeit £10, fitted it, never happened again!!!!!!!!
Sorry to be blunt but the spring is fitted for a reason and that job is to return the clutch pedal to the top, your specialist is right, not all subaru's have them. That would be the automatics!!!!!!!
Stop been tight go and buy a new spring then come on here and tell us we were all right
Sorry to be blunt but the spring is fitted for a reason and that job is to return the clutch pedal to the top, your specialist is right, not all subaru's have them. That would be the automatics!!!!!!!
Stop been tight go and buy a new spring then come on here and tell us we were all right
they are a very well known experienced subaru specialist with many years experience and well respected on here!they have said there are many scoobs running with the springs missing and dont have clutch problems,they are not saying"dont fit a spring its a waste of money" are they?
31 January 2011, 10:02 PM
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Defo the spring, happened on my 93 wrx, again only when giving it beans. Clutch pedal only returned half way then had to flick it back up with my foot. Ordered a new one from Import Car Parts, arrived the next day and job done. Suprising how a little spring can make all the difference.
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