Leaving the scoob for 5 weeks
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: in a JDM V7 STi...
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Leaving the scoob for 5 weeks
any tips on if I should do anything before I go away? It's always parked outside. Hoping that fiance will give it a blast every few days for a couple of weeks cos it hates being sat for more than 3 days as the rear brakes stick.
Cheers ppl!
Cheers ppl!
#3
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: www.surreyscoobies.co.uk
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My 520bhp 2003 STI is my second car and it quite regularly sits around for 3 to 4 weeks without being driven without any problems. It sometimes takes a couple of turns before it comes to life but thats just because the fuel has evaporated from the engine/fuel lines.
#4
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (26)
Get a solar powered battery trickle charger. Should hopefully stop the alarm draining the battery too much.
Not sure what model year it is, but if it has a Sigma alarm, look at putting the Superlock on. Its deactivates the key fob, so you'll need the PIN to start. It will also save even more battery drain.
Not sure what model year it is, but if it has a Sigma alarm, look at putting the Superlock on. Its deactivates the key fob, so you'll need the PIN to start. It will also save even more battery drain.
#6
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: in a JDM V7 STi...
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Ian Godney
It's probably the calipers more than a handbrake problem , it might just be the sliders , you can remove these quite easily , there are tow bolts around the back of the calipers holding the hydraulic part of the caliper to the caliper carriers , remove these 2 bolts and lift the caliper out of the way , and take out the sliders , these just pull out , they should move freely , if not clean them up , if need be hand turn a drill bit in the holes in the carriers to clean them out , re-grease them and fit them back in.
Check that the pads haven't got stuck in place , clean off around the ends of the pads , and where they sit in the carriers , if these are corroded in place it might cause these problems.
The last thing it could be , which is more involved if you don't know what your doing , it could be the caliper piston corroded or seized , you could get someone to pump the pedal gently to get the piston to come out of the caliper some of the way , peel back the seal and check it out , if its just caked in dust or muck , you could clean them gently with some WD40 and a scouring pad , they should move back into the calipers fairly easily , if not then they really need to be taken out , checked , replaced if they are rusty , and the top lip in the bore of the calipers cleaned off of any rust or muck.
I have made some stainless steel pistons for these that don't rust if you do need a piston , can also supply seal kits , or even recondition your caliper
Cheers Ian
01656 723060
It's probably the calipers more than a handbrake problem , it might just be the sliders , you can remove these quite easily , there are tow bolts around the back of the calipers holding the hydraulic part of the caliper to the caliper carriers , remove these 2 bolts and lift the caliper out of the way , and take out the sliders , these just pull out , they should move freely , if not clean them up , if need be hand turn a drill bit in the holes in the carriers to clean them out , re-grease them and fit them back in.
Check that the pads haven't got stuck in place , clean off around the ends of the pads , and where they sit in the carriers , if these are corroded in place it might cause these problems.
The last thing it could be , which is more involved if you don't know what your doing , it could be the caliper piston corroded or seized , you could get someone to pump the pedal gently to get the piston to come out of the caliper some of the way , peel back the seal and check it out , if its just caked in dust or muck , you could clean them gently with some WD40 and a scouring pad , they should move back into the calipers fairly easily , if not then they really need to be taken out , checked , replaced if they are rusty , and the top lip in the bore of the calipers cleaned off of any rust or muck.
I have made some stainless steel pistons for these that don't rust if you do need a piston , can also supply seal kits , or even recondition your caliper
Cheers Ian
01656 723060
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
12
18 November 2015 07:03 AM
Sam Witwicky
Engine Management and ECU Remapping
17
13 November 2015 10:49 AM