Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

You know that smelly creek that you should always have paddles when you go near?? Well I`m at the end with no paddles, a leaking canoe, a tribe of cannibals after me.

RIGHT.

Engine in and seemed ok, dropped the oil, oil filter filled up then fitted, oil and filled up to middle mark on dipstick, crank and cam sensor unplugged and turned over seemed fine. Held on starter like this for 20 odd seconds, again everything seemed fine.

Go to start it up and ooooooh sh it. Massive knock and engine stops on starter, put socket onto crank and its tight as hell with a hissing sound, then this gets over come and it turns normally. There is also a major whine, but think I over tightened the alternator belt.

I really dunno whats causing it. Whether its the engine being duff, or the box/clutch, but something is DEFFO not right and I`m now past the limits of my knowledge.

Also when ignition goes on the rev counter goes to just under 1000rpm, and the petrol gauge doesn`t work, despite having put 10 litres in it today.
So I`m tired pissed off, and at the end of my knowledge, and am totally fed up.

Help needed.

ukjesters

iTrader: (3)

Go to bed, get some rest, or watch game 4 of the stanley cup finals which is about to start at 0100hrs (c'mon flyers!!!)

Knowing this site i'm sure that the knowledge pot that is out there will be along in the morning to help you out without hesitation. But until then, seriously, you really sound like you need some kip before you make a wrong turn through shear frustration.

Really hope you get it sorted without too much more grief.
Regards
Rick

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

Yeah will have a look tomorrow. The battery was pretty low in power so is on charge now.

But what is strange is that when you turn the ignition on the rev counter goes to just under 1000rpm and the fuel gauge shows nowt even tho I stuck 10 litres into her today.

DAMN CAR lol.

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

is the timing correct? so its tight in turn over by hand?

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

Its like most engines I`ve worked on, when turning over with a ratchet, it gets tight then suddenly less resistance as you turn it. I`ve not touched the timing as it was from a running car, also my brother seems to think its gearbox related.

When the engine "jams" I can put a ratchet on the crank and turn her over, it`s a LOT more hard work, then goes back to normal again. I really dunno.

What has spun me out is that when I was turning over with crank and cam sensors unplugged it seemed fine, its only when I plugged them back in that this happened and was cranking for a good 15-20 secs.

ian.e

iTrader: (1)

Are the plug leads on ok? If it spins ok with sensors unplugged and no spark or fuel, then once there is spark and fuel when they are connected, then a spark on the wrong cylinder might be stopping the piston on it`s upstroke.

pslewis

I was thinking about the firing order myself, is it correct?

f4la k

iTrader: (1)

The firing order woulndnt cause the engine to lock up.
Did you hear the engine running in the other car before it was removed.
Is the clutch and flywheel fitted correctly.

scubbay

iTrader: (61)

Clutch/thrust bearing

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

remove plugs, check leads, also put car in neutral and try to push, see if the gearbox is possible still engaged holding engine back.

fastmike

iTrader: (4)

May I suggest this first...... Are you certain you have the water pipes connected correctly / and or brake servo vac hose ?
the reason I ask is it sounds like your engine turned over ok at first.... then hydraulic locked .

Remove ALL the spark plugs , then turn it over useing a socket and ratchet, see if any fluid vents from a plug hole...... depending on what or if any fluid vents will give you a clue as to where to look

fastmike

iTrader: (4)

And the electrical fault sounds like poor or no earth to body shell from battery lead

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

The car is the early one with individual coil packs, could try the old ones from the other engine.

I didn`t hear it running was removed before I got there, this is why I`m having a slight panic.

This is what my brother thinks.

Will try that later.

I`m sure the water pipes are on correctly as the servo hose comes from the inlet (which I left inplace on the old engine and did a like for like), and the water pipes are under the inlet. Also if there was hydro lock then when turning the car over without the cam/crank connected.

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

Bump.

I`m lost need help badly.

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

what have u tried so far

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

Charged battery as it was nearly flat, and to be honest not much more today.
I`m seriously out of my comfort zone, Im pi$$ed off, and don`t want to break anything.
TBH I`m gonna have a go tomorrow as I`ve had 3 days working on the damn thing, so will go down tomorrow as I`ll be calmer, and less likely to take a match to the sodding thing!! lol.

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

I`m starting to think it may be the box, as the last engine was "gone" with a VERY heavy knock on the 4th pop from the engine/exhaust, so with this doing the same, I`m seriously thinking its the inputshaft on the gearbox, as the previous engine had what can only sound like a sledge hammer hitting the crank, and this is the same.
So the suspected bottom end failure would have to be catastrophic to make this sound, and on two engines??
The only common denominator is gearbox and ecu with wiring.

pslewis

Does it run well with the gearbox disconnected .. ie. clutch in?

Then if you engage the box does it all go wrong then?

Of course, the above assumes the clutch and release bearing are working correctly.

Does the engine turn over well without plugs in?

Badbird

as previous post sounds like hydralic lock we had this problem ourselves just take the plugs out and try it befour you do anything else

they fill with fuel realy easy when turned and not firing

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

Engine turns over with plugs in, with ratchet on the crank.
If the input shaft was causing issues then it would still spin the input shaft if in neutral, only the resistance from the gears would make the clutch stop in the clutch is properly depressed.

This is why I would like someone who knows their stuff to have a look, as its easy to sit and throw guesses around but knowing these engines can get to the bottom.

But to me the same issue with both engines that otherwise are fine says to me something else is wrong tbh.

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

Will remove the plugs tomorrow and see if she spins up without noise, and will try and get a video done too.

The Zohan

Jimbob
Was the car running OK - particulalry the engine before you dropped the oil and changed the filter?

Assuming yes then it is unlikely that something has just suddenly 'gone'.

Did you change the plugs and have you got the plug leads back in the right order. It is likely something simple like this.

Could be hydrualic lock caused by lots of fuel. Remove the plugs, note the positions and replace them the same way then try moving them around, with a boxer this should be straight forward as two go to each side of the engine and you can only reverse them, one side at a time then try to start it and see what happens.

also poss earth prob as pointed out above.

Have just re-read your intital post i take it it is a new (to you) engine - how much do you know about it?

Good luck

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

Right as far as I know the engine was A1, haven`t changed plugs, haven`t unplugged dispacks, all the wiring on the engine is as removed. The only thing not connected as I found it is the mount for the clutch spring, which I`ve made a temporary fix. The wiring is all connected as normal and as far as I know in the right places.

Also with the fuel gauge not showing petrol I assumed there was none, and put 10 litres in, this still didn`t show.

The car has had a heater matrix go, so has had the dash off to replace it.
So could be an issue with the wiring.

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

When I put the engine on the box I left the thrust bearing on the clutch and as the engine came on I put the fork through, is this right or should I have done it differently??

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

Anyone??

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

The engine came from on here, and I`m very wary to say the engine is duff, esp with both engines doing the same.
To me that says a fault thats other than the parts changed.
And that its turning nicely when no crank/cam sensor connected.

This is the thread with the engine.
https://www.scoobynet.com/private-fo...trimmings.html

Also thought with crank and cam sensors removed the engine didn`t pump fuel into the engine.

fastmike

iTrader: (4)

First thing I would do is get those plugs out and check for hydraulic lock ...... it doesnt cost any parts .... it doesnt take hours...... and I,m certain thats your problem
With respect , your running around like a headless chicken which is understandable , but that will just have you pulling all manner of things apart and getting nowhere fast . You need a starting point ,and thats it mate. If you were closer I,de come and have a look

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

Thats why I`ve not gone near it since its happened and been running around here lol.

I`ve a member coming monday, and thats where I will start with.

Will start with that and work from there.
But would love to drop it off to someone and work on it with someone in the know, rather than behind my brothers house lol.

niktiler

iTrader: (5)

hi same thing happened to me turned out i had fitted the injectors wrong and the o rings were not in properly so **** loads of fuel was getiing in and caused it to lock up like urs

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

Hope so fella, will be seeing tomorrow or Monday.