bolasti

iTrader: (6)

as above have classic myoo running 330ish horses td05 16 g,full afterburner system uprated headers and uppipe 3 port solenoid piper cross panel filter walboro fuel pump. what is the best oil to use and is there a special way of changeing the oil as heard storys of peole doing this then the car goes bang thanks

bolasti

iTrader: (6)

bump

GMballistic

iTrader: (1)

When doing your oil change you need to prime the oil filter first before fitting it....in other words fill the new oil filter with oil all the way to the top, leave it to stand for 10 mins and then re-fill to the top as necessary. You will need a new sump plug washer for the sump plug and it is recommended to remove the cam angle sensor plug (near the battery/front top near side cam pulley cover/small grey plug). The car won't start with this removed. Once you have filled up with oil (4.5 litres I think but more if you have an oil cooler/which would also need to be drained) it is recommended that you spin the engine over until the oil is well circulated (15-20 secs max approx). Once that is done, re-connect the plug and it will be safe now to re-start the engine and check for leaks from the newly fitted filter or sump plug.

* GENUINE Subaru Oil filter (part n# 15208AA100)
* Sump plug washer
* OIL 5 Litres (your choice....I use Mobil 1 Motorsport 15W/50 Fully Syn in my96 WRX)

Hope that helps sum

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Special offer at halfords on this stuff just now if you live up in the hills where its going to get cold this winter then I would go with a 10w40 oil instead.

Tony

SunnySideUp

The Uprated Fuel Pump means that special oil is required and the special oil change procedure MUST be followed:-

1. Remove Oil Filler Cap, 'gently' - take at least 5 minutes or the threads will strip and the exhaust will fall off in a weeks time.

2. Carefully jack up the front of car, make sure that only the 'special' car jacking points are used or the steering wheel will be upside down next time you see it (the special jack points are only known to a select few, not the main dealers!)

3. Locate the Sump Plug, do this using an Inspection Lamp with a 100W bulb - do not, under any circumstances, use a bulb of lower wattage or the splash cover under the engine will melt and pieces will be sucked up into the MAF and then immediate engine failure will occur.

4. Undo Sump Plug whilst humming 'Oil Be Home For Xmas' - do NOT sing any other song or the Radio will never tune into any local stations again and the aerial will need to be replaced at the next service.

5. Allow Oil to drain into a Tupperware Perspex Jug - use only perspex as other plastics react with the old oil and particles travel back through the draining oil and attack the Big-End Bearings.

6. Whilst Oil is draining run around car 15 times in a Morris Dancing Outfit with the special Subaru bells attached to shoes.

7. Remove Oil Filter by unscrewing anti-clockwise 5 times, then clockwise 2 times, continue until filter is free ..... failure to do this will result in the new Filter not filling up with Oil on start-up.

8. Fill Oil Filter with Oil and screw new Oil Filter on and replace Sump Plug - there is some discussion about the order that these need to be replaced, many an evening in a B.O. smelling corner of a dark pub has been spent mulling over the merits of both choices ..... there is a 'special' way, but we are not sure what it is yet.

9. Start filling the engine with Oil - Synthetic only please!! and of course, Subarus need 'special' Oil - Mobil made a 'special' Oil just for us!!

10. Now it gets complicated, the engine start procedure ...... remove the spark plugs, coil packs and battery - remove the seats and rear boot/tailgate - ensure Octane Booster is removed from tank as it might spontaneously start the car when you are not ready - take the drive belts off - turn engine over, s....l....o....w....l....y - engine should be turned over at least 67 times to ensure adequate Oil film coverage.

11. Return all components and start engine whilst whistling the theme tune to TITANIC ................ if you are VERY lucky the engine will not shoot a con-rod through the block (this normally happens to MY96 cars which are MicaPink in colour) - but ALL Model Years can be affected equally as bad.

12. If the engine started without any problems, then don't be smug as the MAF sensor will blow up your engine within 3 days in any case!!!!!

OR, do as the Main Dealers do:-

Change Oil - start engine - check for Oil drips - return to customer!!

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Unless your a Renault garage and dont check to see if the sump plug is tightened up

You need a new one of these Pete, this one is getting boring

Tony

deano27

iTrader: (2)

lol^^^^^

SunnySideUp

I know ... but even I am only capable of one gem in a lifetime

GMballistic

iTrader: (1)

....but you forgot the Dealers 5th step SunnySideUp
- charge the customer for an hours work + vat when it only takes 10 mins

Ste98Turbo

If your feeling flush use this stuff Millers Oils Motorsport

Ive been using it for years now and engine is still going strong with 87k on the clock, never even had the head off yet........whats that grinding??? .....BANG!!! kiss of death right there

rifleman

I HAVE MILLERS 10-60 IN MINE AND RUNS SWEET AS A NUT AND NICE AND QUIET FIRST THING ON START UP.

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

The 10 rating is when cold, the 60 when hot, and the 60 is very thick, actually too thick for a standard or lightly modded engine
Drop to a 40 or 50 rated, I doubt you would get the temps up to cook a 40 rated oil anyway

The best example I have seen of showing you how thick oil is (though this was cold only) was at a vauxhall dealer, 3 tubes with 3 solid ball bearings in and all filled with oil.
The oil rating(s) were in this order, 5, 10, 15 (remember these are cold ratings)
You just turned them all over and watched how long it took for the ball bearing to hit the bottom, quite amazing really, the 5 made it first, the 10 second and then the 15, and there was quite a few seconds between them.

Thats whats happening to your engine with a stupidly thick oil in, lots of drag and strain on the oil pump, not a good idea

Tony

chrisdicko

iTrader: (21)

Why doesn't everyone run a "5" oil for the best cold lubricating, then a 40-50 depending on what the car is doing? Why use a 10 or 15 cold rating if 5 is 'the best lubricating when cold'?

I'm putting some 5w40 in mine this week, as I'm going over to Slovakia for xmas where the temps get well in to the minus!

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Mobil 1 did a fully synth 5w40 for the classics, but most people stick with a 10 as its gives just as much lubrication in our climate, they do recommend a 5w30 in extreme cold temps (canada etc) but not to rag it
0wXX is a

Tony

SunnySideUp

Subaru - the people who built the car - recommend 10W-40 Semi .... that's what I have used. Coming up for 98,000 miles ......... and no need to spend £50 on Oil either, your Semi at £12:99 is perfectly adequate unless you are racing.

Some sense is appearing on SN at last!

bolasti

iTrader: (6)

thanks 4 replys

GMballistic

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Tony, someone else on here did remind me aswell so I got some today. Even with the offer it still feels painfully expensive for oil but I think my cars worth it

blue scooby

millers 10/60

runn it in my 400 bhp and was happy on it