172sport

iTrader: (6)

What range of diameters where fitted as std to all the classics.

Cheers

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

mine is a 95 and it has 19mm front 18mm rear

172sport

iTrader: (6)

Yeah same as mine had.

Just looking for something thicker.

I have a 22mm on at the min but its a little too stiff.

dunx

iTrader: (3)

If you are feeling adventurous....

You could take an angle grinder to it, and shave off a section top and bottom in the middle. This will reduce the torsional stiffness, but try not to cause any sharp edged stress raisers.

HTH

dunx

172sport

iTrader: (6)

Not really wanting to put a grinder down a perrin A/R bar just for a trial. LOL

I'm thinking maybe a 20mm front would be a better compromise.

Surely somone must know????

172sport

iTrader: (6)

Anyone???

dunx

iTrader: (3)

Pedant mode on/

Well I wouldn't "do" a Perrin bar either.....

But if you won't tell us the whole story, we are just guessing.

Splitpin would be sure to tell you off

dunx

Pedant mode off/

P.S. I run a 22mm bar front and rear on mine

172sport

iTrader: (6)

Basically I run 22mm front and 25mm rear.

Its too stiff, meaning when pushing on I dont have enough droop on the front inside wheel. This is loosing me grip and causing the front inside wheel to spin up on 2nd and 3rd gear corners.

Ideally I want a smaller bar to try out but not as small as std.

Hence the question "what bars are fitted as std"

I dont want to waste money buying new if I could use what is essentially a std part from another model.

ie a type r or RA etc etc etc if they are different?

It would be nice to work up from the std 19mm up to 22mm, to gauge the difference.

It would seem most just buy the usual 22/25 combo as I did!

dunx

iTrader: (3)

The opposite effect would be to run a heavy bead of weld across the bar, top and bottom, ( full width of the bar ), OBVIOUSLY (!) you start with a std. bar and add material.....

This technique will cause the bar to bend if you do all the top, and then bottom, but if you did a 1" section and then swap sides it may stay reasonably straight, and will be quite cheap to try, and you can tune it to your driving style.

I need a coffee after all this lateral thinking.

dunx

P.S. The other idea would be to use rose joint type bearing on the wishbone to reduce friction, the full Exe-tc set-up is a bit expensive....