Cant split engine from gearbox help
#1
Cant split engine from gearbox help
All nuts & bolts 8 in total removed engine lifted above mounts to allow forward movement but engine wont split from box is it just the dowels holding? I dont want to force it or am I missing something?
Any help would be great.
Any help would be great.
#3
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If it's not been apart before then yes it will be very tight. You will need a good thin chisel to split them. Seems a bit brutal but it's whats needed.
As said, make sure the pin is out of fork as well.
As said, make sure the pin is out of fork as well.
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It will be tight on the dowels not the bearing, You need to remove cover that holds the pin in. Look on the side of the box (passenger side) and you will see a plug with a hex head, remove that and then remove a bolt from the cam belt cover and screw it in to the pin inside the gearbox housing and put it out.
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remove intercooler
remove starter motor
remove allen bolt which start motor hid (10mm allen key)
use an M6 bolt (one from the cam cover fits) and wind into the clutch fork pivot, wiggle the clutch fork and pull the pivot out,
undo the bell housing bolts / nuts,
remove cover over the prop shaft connecting point between box and rear diff,
undo prop shaft,
remove prop shaft bearing bracket,
remove gearbox oil,
drop out and remove prop,
support gearbox with jacket etc,
remove driveshafts - undo one hub and remove pin from driveshaft stubs,
undo the gearbox cradle from body and then from gearbox,
drop gearbox back and down and off the clutch / flywheel..
remove starter motor
remove allen bolt which start motor hid (10mm allen key)
use an M6 bolt (one from the cam cover fits) and wind into the clutch fork pivot, wiggle the clutch fork and pull the pivot out,
undo the bell housing bolts / nuts,
remove cover over the prop shaft connecting point between box and rear diff,
undo prop shaft,
remove prop shaft bearing bracket,
remove gearbox oil,
drop out and remove prop,
support gearbox with jacket etc,
remove driveshafts - undo one hub and remove pin from driveshaft stubs,
undo the gearbox cradle from body and then from gearbox,
drop gearbox back and down and off the clutch / flywheel..
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#8
Engine swap, I've been searching forum for last 30 mins good advice I need to remove the clutch fork pivot by the looks of things first then try & split again with hammer n chissel if nes engine u/s so I bash that rather than the box. Glad I joined good help thanks keep up the good work.
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Ah should have read it correctly Get that pin out and get the joint split and away you go. Give the dowels a good clean up and put some copper slip on them, and file off any marks you make with the chisel.
#12
New engine in with new timing belt,oil,filter & new exedy clutch started first turn of the key sounds sweet.
Total cost so far
Car non runner 1800
Engine 300 as it was a gamble had came out of a bad front end write off bottem left pulley was cracked but looking at timing marks it all looked good used pulley off u/s engine checked I had compresion before putting in thhe car all was well.
clutch, timing belt, oil & filter another £300
So a 52 plate bugeye moted till june next year 67k on the clock for £2400 I'm a happy chappy.
Total cost so far
Car non runner 1800
Engine 300 as it was a gamble had came out of a bad front end write off bottem left pulley was cracked but looking at timing marks it all looked good used pulley off u/s engine checked I had compresion before putting in thhe car all was well.
clutch, timing belt, oil & filter another £300
So a 52 plate bugeye moted till june next year 67k on the clock for £2400 I'm a happy chappy.
#14
In total I'd guess between 10 & 12 hrs as I started Fri afternoon got it out first thing Sat morn swapped pulleys timed up with old belt to check for compresion then had sunday off fitted new belt when it arrived on monday afternoon then had to wait for new clutch which arrived 14:00 this afternoon, clutch fitted back in all ancilaries refitted oil water running by 19:00 just bonnet left to fit tomorrow n a couple of new jubilee clips on top hose.
Just to ad this was easier than expected as I usually by renault, ford & vauxhall non runners 1st impreza.
Start on a 172 with rod hanging out of the block tomorrow.
I'm going to keep the impreza as I've always fancied one so I'll be on here for some time.
Just to ad this was easier than expected as I usually by renault, ford & vauxhall non runners 1st impreza.
Start on a 172 with rod hanging out of the block tomorrow.
I'm going to keep the impreza as I've always fancied one so I'll be on here for some time.
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Ah, another one who is now in on the secret. Engine change looks a nightmare but actually peace of pish! (apart from the dowels sticking) Can do one in 7 hours now. Personally I will take the engine out in preference to the gearbox to get at the clutch.
Actually, having replaced shox, calipers, discs, hoses, exhausts, gearboxes and engines I can't say I have found anything overcomplicated or difficult. Even fitted rear wash/wipe to a uk saloon. Probably one of the simpler cars I have ever had to work on, just expensive on parts/fuel.
By the way the engine will come out with the bonnet still on. Saves a job.
Well done and welcome to the club
Actually, having replaced shox, calipers, discs, hoses, exhausts, gearboxes and engines I can't say I have found anything overcomplicated or difficult. Even fitted rear wash/wipe to a uk saloon. Probably one of the simpler cars I have ever had to work on, just expensive on parts/fuel.
By the way the engine will come out with the bonnet still on. Saves a job.
Well done and welcome to the club
Last edited by his-n-her-scoobs; 28 October 2009 at 12:25 PM.
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