wrxwill05

iTrader: (1)

Hi chaps,

Im planning on getting jack out tomorrow night and getting driver side wheel off so I can take off the resinator box and have a play around with the intake.... I had a quick look today and there looks to be lots of clips and plugs.... thats the best way to remove the plastic arch cover so i can get access to the wing? Any pictures would be super :-)

Cheers guys!
Will

maydew

iTrader: (9)

absolutely no point mate ,save your time and effort and leave it in .only time you need to remove it is if u fit a front mount .the standard unit is good.if your after noise go get yourself a proper open induction kit block the dump valve and away you go.



if you insist on it once undone clips round bump and about half round the liner and you can pull it past.

Butty

iTrader: (2)

Assuming its a newage car , wheel doesn't need to be removed to get resonator out - just jack up car to end of suspension droop and turn steering fully to one side. Remove only six of the clips- there will be a bout three attached under front bumper and three holding liner to inner wing.
Peel back liner and there are two nuts holding resonator to body. One is fiddly to get at in wing, the other is in engine bay on inner wing.

Nick

wrxwill05

iTrader: (1)

hi guys - basically ive fitted a K&N Typhoon short-ram and in my head, taking the resinator out would improve air-flow to the cone...... or is there no point in doing this? i just though the snokel would restrict the cold air feed for the IK, as its not directly connected to it........ bit paranoid at the moment about the car running rich on hot air!

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

I took mine out on my Foggy STi. It does free up space but unless your putting the cone in the space left behind then there is not much point.

But I fitted some air trunking from the fog cover up to the hole thats left when the Resonator box fits through. This helped flow direct to the cone head.

Merlin Motor Sport do the trucking and some very nice alloy end that fit to the wing.

I'll get some pics up later

wrxwill05

iTrader: (1)

ahhhh so u dont recon its worth takin the resinator off then? i thought it wud improve air flow from the wing to the cone?

markjmd

iTrader: (11)

Will
If you've got a cone filter fitted, it absolutely IS worth doing, and it would be highly inadvisable not to, in fact. To get the most benefit though it would be worth your while trying to fit some kind of ducting to collect and feed cold air into the hole where the resonator-to-airbox inlet was. I bodged my own together from various bits of plastic air feed pipe and a cleaned and hacked up empty 5L oil bottle (very ugly but pretty effective), but I'm looking forward to seeing blue-dragoon's pics of his Merlin kit to see how the design compares.

To give you an idea of what kind of difference it can make to the quality of the air going into your filter, the steel end of my cone-filter (right opposite the old resonator inlet, just a few inches away) stays completely cold to the touch even after an hour's hard driving. The only time it'll start to warm up is if the car has to sit still for a while.

wrxwill05

iTrader: (1)

Hi mate - that sounds spot on! what im planning on doing it taking the res. off, allowing more air to flow from the wing, and butcher the air duct at the front so it points towards the cone.... that way air is being pushed onto the cone, as well as being sucked in from teh wing...... that sound a good idea to you then??

markjmd

iTrader: (11)

will
If you've already gone down the induction-kit route, I don't think there's any real choice but to do whatever it takes to get the maximum amount of exterior air flowing onto the filter as the design of the engine-bay will allow. Air duct and wing collector/feed-pipe is definitely the way to go.

wrxwill05

iTrader: (1)

yeh - the only "help" is that the k&N came with a heat shield so it does create a little area of the bay and will encourage air flow to come from more "accessible" areas, likek the front and the wing :-)