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Reliability of the Bugeye onwards??

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Old 06 May 2009, 02:32 PM
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kingchrissyp
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Default Reliability of the Bugeye onwards??

I m new to the world of Impreza s and am looking at swopping my Civic Type R for one this weekend,originally i was looking at RB5s or the Type r 3 door versions but then found out they have a major problem with Big end failure-as every one i looked at had either had a rebuild or a new engine.So i m now looking at the Bugeye shape or newer as they seem to be a lot less trouble? and just wanted make sure this is the case!
Also any info on anything to check especially other than the usual would be useful It s a 2003 Bugeye WRX with 69k and full service history!
Old 06 May 2009, 02:48 PM
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Mate, I'm running a 2001 bugeye WRX with just under 70k on the clock and touchwood, other than the LCD clock on the dash and a wheel bearing in the last 3 years it's been faultless and very very reliable; if only all my previous cars had been so good. Servicing, even at a main dealer, seems far more reasonable than most other manufacturers.
Of course, you offset that against the mpg you get

I'm aware that until the Hawkeye, new ages (particularly STI models I think) did suffer from problems with rear suspension struts.
Also look for any rust under the spare wheel in the boot and / or wet carpet as many suffer from leaks (it's usually just the spoiler needs re-sealing).
Other than that nothing other than the usual checks, but someone with more mechanical experience may be able to offer you some more useful pointers.

I'm surprised to hear what you said about the RB5 and Type R models - as far as I was aware the engines only normally expire when the owner performs a load of daft mods without upgrading the internals to take the additional power?

Last edited by MrNoisy; 06 May 2009 at 02:51 PM.
Old 06 May 2009, 03:06 PM
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Mark1983
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Afternoon Chris.

Mine has spent its life flat out on track and, touch wood, the only problem I had was a split turbo up-pipe.
Old 06 May 2009, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Bugeye_Scoob
Mate, I'm running a 2001 bugeye WRX with just under 70k on the clock and touchwood, other than the LCD clock on the dash and a wheel bearing in the last 3 years it's been faultless and very very reliable; if only all my previous cars had been so good. Servicing, even at a main dealer, seems far more reasonable than most other manufacturers.
Of course, you offset that against the mpg you get

I'm aware that until the Hawkeye, new ages (particularly STI models I think) did suffer from problems with rear suspension struts.
Also look for any rust under the spare wheel in the boot and / or wet carpet as many suffer from leaks (it's usually just the spoiler needs re-sealing).
Other than that nothing other than the usual checks, but someone with more mechanical experience may be able to offer you some more useful pointers.

I'm surprised to hear what you said about the RB5 and Type R models - as far as I was aware the engines only normally expire when the owner performs a load of daft mods without upgrading the internals to take the additional power?
Cheers for the info!
Yeah i was a little shocked my self as i thought Subaru = japenese reliability = no worrys! but only when i started looking i found most had to have a engine rebuild/new engine at some stage,something to do with the MAF failing and causing the pistons to run without lubrication and resulting in bigend failure!I went to see a 54 blob eye and the chap said he used to have a 98 Type R model which it happened on and he said he s in a local car club and there are 8 members with Scoobie Type Rs and all 8 have suffered the same fate
I might have it all wrong but i didn t want to take the chance as 1 i can t be without a car and 2 i don t want to fork out 3k or more on a new engine!
Good to hear yours are all spot on
Old 06 May 2009, 03:21 PM
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cobraman
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I'm in the same boat mate.

I am going to sell my Civic Type-R and will be purchasing a WRX Prodrive or STi (although I've been looking for a car for over a month now).

Something to consider. A standard WRX isn't very much different from the CTR in terms of speed/handling so if you are expecting the WRX to be a little faster - it really isn't that noticeable.
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Old 06 May 2009, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by cobraman
I'm in the same boat mate.

I am going to sell my Civic Type-R and will be purchasing a WRX Prodrive or STi (although I've been looking for a car for over a month now).

Something to consider. A standard WRX isn't very much different from the CTR in terms of speed/handling so if you are expecting the WRX to be a little faster - it really isn't that noticeable.
No i already know as i ve had several run ins with WRX s while i ve owned the Civic and my DC2 and was nothing in them really!
The one i m looking at has a full exhaust system etc so is hopefully a little quicker,the chap i m meeting reckons over 300bhp but unless i m missing something i can t see how, as far as i know the only other thing it has is a dump valve so i was thinking more like 240-250bhp max!
The main reason i wanted the impreza is the 4WD system as i live in the countryside and plus half the time it s raining and in the wet FWD = pants

Last edited by kingchrissyp; 06 May 2009 at 03:31 PM.
Old 06 May 2009, 03:35 PM
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Hi Mate happy hunting !!! I had a Bug STi PPP UK for a Few years with no problems what so ever, not even the reported "knockin" rear suspension. I've had this current Bug for 2 months, needed new Maf (used 2nd hand one) and replaced VTA as it was leaking, other than that OK !!!
Old 06 May 2009, 04:00 PM
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Another quick question,i asked the chap what sort of fuel economy to expect and he said a £50 tank driven (reasonably )should get you around 300 miles?Just wondered if this sounds about right?
Old 06 May 2009, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by kingchrissyp
Another quick question,i asked the chap what sort of fuel economy to expect and he said a £50 tank driven (reasonably )should get you around 300 miles?Just wondered if this sounds about right?
From what I've heard its about 200-240 miles (normal roads) and around 280-300 miles (motorway) to £50 super-unleaded in a standard WRX.
Old 06 May 2009, 04:20 PM
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Hiya kingchrissyp,

All i've had for the last about 8 years is Impreza's,

I had a MY01 bugeye WRX, and run it for about 4 years. The only thing that went was the neutral sensor. On mixed driving i got 300+ to the tank £50, on SUL. Never had any strut problems.
This was my first scoob. I came from a 2.5 V6 mazda, and what a difference!
The only thing I didn't like about the WRX, was that it was really gutless below 3k revs. I always felt as though I was changing down a gear!

I then run a MY05 Blobeye STi Type UK for 18 months. Again never had any strut problems, but did have a number of new batteries fitted, for free by the dealer. Even running with the side lights on, it still couldn't hold its charge. No real bother though, just when the alarm bleeped on staring the engine, just took it to the dealer for a free battery! On mixed driving I got 280 mile to the tank, £50 SUL.
I found the STi to be much much better than my previous WRX. No more driopping down a cog, to get it going as it delivered in all gears. A big difference over the WRX!

I currently run a MY07 RB320. I've had the RB from new, almost 2 years now & WHAT A CAR! I have had 2 sets of rear struts replaced. I get on mixed driving about 260 - 280 miles to the tank, £60 V-Power. Maybe a bit less on a nice sunny weekend!

Reliability depends on how they get looked after. Thats why all my Scoobs on top of the scheduled service intervals, get an oil & filter every 5k miles or 6 months, and are alwatys warmed up and cooled down!

My 2 pence worth

Iggy

Last edited by IggyRB320; 06 May 2009 at 04:38 PM.
Old 06 May 2009, 04:35 PM
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Thanks very much everyone!
I ve been wanting a Scoob or Evo for a while now but after being scared off with terror stories of fuel and servicing costs,but to be honest it doesn t sound to bad!Worse than the Civic but then in all fairness that still suprises me what it gets to the gallon as it rarely drops below 30mpg and more often than not achieves 33-34mpg!
I used to have a LCR - Leon Cupra R and that was tweaked a bit supposedly running 272bhp but more realistically 250 max and that used to do about 300-320 on about £50-£55 so not to disimilar,and as for servicing i ll just have the usual service done with the MOT and an oil change in between so no real problems there!
The other extra cost was the insurance as i m 25 with 4 years no claims i m paying around £500 on the civic with all mods declared,but the cheapest i could find the Scoob for was £750=A Plan,but i gave Direct line a call this afternoon and they got it to £606 with mods so not to awful!
Old 06 May 2009, 04:58 PM
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Two and a half years with my Bug STI - Things that have *needed* replacement are:

Reverse Switch on gearbox
MAF (identified as problem by dealer - I'm still not entirely convinced and think it was a sticky idle control valve.. but it's fixed now so.. )


I don't think thats too bad for a '02 plate car.

As for engine rebuilds - I've already started thinking that I need to start setting aside money for a rebuild; I have no signs of failure yet, just short of 80,000 miles (touch wood), but I think its only sensible to start thinking about it (although a more normal person would just be thinking get shot of the car!!! - what can I say? Thats what love does to you!). I think the number of rebuilds you'll see in Impreza enthusiast circles are going to be roughly comparative to any other Japanese performance cars really - certainly in forced induction circles anyhow.
Old 06 May 2009, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Prasius
Two and a half years with my Bug STI - Things that have *needed* replacement are:

Reverse Switch on gearbox
MAF (identified as problem by dealer - I'm still not entirely convinced and think it was a sticky idle control valve.. but it's fixed now so.. )


I don't think thats too bad for a '02 plate car.

As for engine rebuilds - I've already started thinking that I need to start setting aside money for a rebuild; I have no signs of failure yet, just short of 80,000 miles (touch wood), but I think its only sensible to start thinking about it (although a more normal person would just be thinking get shot of the car!!! - what can I say? Thats what love does to you!). I think the number of rebuilds you'll see in Impreza enthusiast circles are going to be roughly comparative to any other Japanese performance cars really - certainly in forced induction circles anyhow.
Cheers pal
Sorry to ask so many questions,and i know it s going slightly off the original topic,but i don t want to start a new thread for every question!
Anyway i just wanted to know if it s fine to run the car on normal unleaded as i ve read it is? or whether this will do any harm or cut performance dramatically?The only reason i ask is that i used to run my DC2 on super and then tried normal and couldn t notice any difference at all,and so i ve since only used normal in the Civic.Just wondered how much benefit there is for the the extra money?
Old 06 May 2009, 05:30 PM
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if you run it on normal unleaded you will get engine detonation
Old 06 May 2009, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by kingchrissyp
the chap i m meeting reckons over 300bhp but unless i m missing something i can t see how
Quite possible with an ECU remap, uprated fuel pump, de-cat exhaust system, performance air filter etc. but would certainly need more than just an exhaust and a dump valve . If the car has been remapped, the chap you're meeting should have a rolling road certificate to prove it's BHP, otherwise it's the standard 220ish. Welcome to the world of scoobies mate.

PS I run my bugeye on either Tesco 99 or V-Power and get an average of 275 miles per tank, with a mixture of sensible driving and turbo boost every now and again.

Last edited by Jonnys3; 06 May 2009 at 05:43 PM.
Old 06 May 2009, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by nick schofield
if you run it on normal unleaded you will get engine detonation
Is this definate,as it was on car reviews etc i read it was ok to use normal fuel?I ve no problem using Super as long as it s needed and justified
Old 06 May 2009, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonnys3
Quite possible with an ECU remap, uprated fuel pump, de-cat exhaust system, performance air filter etc. but would certainly need more than just an exhaust and a dump valve . If the car has been remapped, the chap you're meeting should have a rolling road certificate to prove it's BHP, otherwise it's the standard 220ish. Welcome to the world of scoobies mate.

PS I run my bugeye on either Tesco 99 or V-Power and get an average of 275 miles per tank, with a mixture of sensible driving and turbo boost every now and again.
IT s a complete turbo back decated system,i ll have to check on the remap
Old 06 May 2009, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by kingchrissyp
Another quick question,i asked the chap what sort of fuel economy to expect and he said a £50 tank driven (reasonably )should get you around 300 miles?Just wondered if this sounds about right?
I struggle to get more than 200 from a tank with everyday driving but depends on the driver/roads.

I've seen anywhere from 65-400 miles from a tank.
Old 06 May 2009, 05:57 PM
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believe me ask other members should be run on tesco 99 or shell v power if you look on the inside of the fuelcap it will say super unleaded only
Old 06 May 2009, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by nick schofield
believe me ask other members should be run on tesco 99 or shell v power if you look on the inside of the fuelcap it will say super unleaded only
Thats no problem as long as i know
Old 06 May 2009, 06:17 PM
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I thought a standard UK WRX says 95ron on the inside of the fuel cap. It has been a while since I owned one mind.
Saying that, when I had the MY01 WRX I used SUL antway!

V-Power all the way, i've never used Tesco99! May be tempted though.
Old 06 May 2009, 06:20 PM
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well mines a standard bugeye uk and it says so on mine as does stressymares
Old 06 May 2009, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by IggyRB320
I thought a standard UK WRX says 95ron on the inside of the fuel cap. It has been a while since I owned one mind.
Saying that, when I had the MY01 WRX I used SUL antway!

V-Power all the way, i've never used Tesco99! May be tempted though.
I know JDM cars need to be run on super as i said i d read UK cars could be? i ll obviously check the fuel cap anyhow and check with the current owner.I know in both my civic and in the integra it says 95/97 RON!

Last edited by kingchrissyp; 06 May 2009 at 06:24 PM.
Old 06 May 2009, 06:26 PM
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do a new thread what fuel should i put in a bugeye wrx uk
Old 06 May 2009, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by nick schofield
do a new thread what fuel should i put in a bugeye wrx uk
Will do
Old 06 May 2009, 06:43 PM
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Evening cp.

seven years on, no real problems, except ones caused by other driver's forcing me off the road.... one steering control arm and a wheel bearing/hub combo. All the other "issues" have been mod related, leaky exhaust, leaky fuel rails, split turbo hose, and that's it !

My classic had one fault in four and a half years... so 1997 to 2009 one call out to "rescuer service", not half bad !

As for engines, they are capable of 400+ BHP with only bolt-on mods...
The ECU is far smarter than the ones fitted to the classics, I ran mine for a few months before mapping and Simon (JGM) said it had almost perfectly dialled in it's own fuel and ignition settings, despite me fitting a much bigger turbo.

Good luck with the search !

dunx

P.S. Mine runs fine on the cheap stuff, but I wouldn't go thrashing it with that rubbish in the tank !

Last edited by dunx; 06 May 2009 at 06:45 PM.
Old 06 May 2009, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dunx
Evening cp.

seven years on, no real problems, except ones caused by other driver's forcing me off the road.... one steering control arm and a wheel bearing/hub combo. All the other "issues" have been mod related, leaky exhaust, leaky fuel rails, split turbo hose, and that's it !

My classic had one fault in four and a half years... so 1997 to 2009 one call out to "rescuer service", not half bad !

As for engines, they are capable of 400+ BHP with only bolt-on mods...
The ECU is far smarter than the ones fitted to the classics, I ran mine for a few months before mapping and Simon (JGM) said it had almost perfectly dialled in it's own fuel and ignition settings, despite me fitting a much bigger turbo.

Good luck with the search !

dunx

P.S. Mine runs fine on the cheap stuff, but I wouldn't go thrashing it with that rubbish in the tank !
Cheers for the info mate
Old 06 May 2009, 10:14 PM
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Few points to follow up since all the other comments:
1. Re the comment
A standard WRX isn't very much different from the CTR in terms of speed/handling so if you are expecting the WRX to be a little faster - it really isn't that noticeable.
I'd have to disagree - a mildly modded WRX (like mine) will pull ahead of the Civic in a straight drag, but it's the top end where the Civic seems to have a lot of difficulty keeping up - I've done a few drags against Type R's (version before the latest one) and generally it's the same result; get to around 75-80mph and the Type R will disappear a little faster. Not that we'd ever drive at such speeds . Erhum.. anyway...

2. Fuel-wise, all new age UK models state super unleaded on the fuel flap; you shouldn't use '95, and TBH most people advocate V-Power only. Tesco '99 is okay, but apparently contains more biofuel ingredients which means you get worse mpg (I should know as I run it). Some even run octane booster.
For me, equates to around 220 miles on a full tank of '99, as opposed to around 240 miles on V-Power and that's with everyday driving. Motorway you might get 20-30 miles more; some people report better, but that's probably sticking to the speed limit and a cruising speed - I don't drive that way. Sadly not many Shell stations on my way to work but there is a Tesco hence the choice.
FYI one of my mates runs a 400bhp Prodrive STI bug and says Sainsburys Super brings on his engine warning light - shows how much difference there is between brands.

3. To be developing 300bhp the WRX in question would require, at the very least I'd have thought a full decat system, (including up pipe), uprated fuel pump, panel filter (or cone filter in the wing) and a remap; even then you're more likely looking at 280bhp not 300bhp. Ask the guy for a rolling road print out.

4. Forgot to mention - make sure it's got decent tyres and if it hasn't for god's sake change them before going out on a mad one hehe

Last edited by MrNoisy; 06 May 2009 at 10:15 PM.
Old 06 May 2009, 10:28 PM
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I ve found out it s a full system inc Decat,but bar the dump valve thats about it performance wise!Any ideas what sort of power it should be running without a remap?
And secondly if i was to remap it what sort of power do you think i could be looking at?may add a panel filter if he hasn t done so already
Old 06 May 2009, 11:11 PM
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I'd take the dump valve off mate - they're generally considered bad in the tuning circle unless it's a recirc because the airflow change can bugger the ECU readings.
It probably won't do anything for performance anyhow, just make the car sound chavvy (but that's my opinion - some people like that).

Full decat system will probably fetch you anything between 260-280bhp depending on the fuel you're using and the map.

Mine ran 250bhp on a rolling road with a catback and a green panel filter; IIRC that was on Sainsburys '97 RON (which I now know better than to use!).
Add a panel filter; if it's a lower mileage car you can probably get away without the fuel pump.

One more thing - if it's on a full decat and NOT been remapped, get it mapped ASAP as the change could have repercussions to the performance and the engine life (don't quote me on this but I think it can screw up ECU readings if you decat it without a remap - if the CAT warning light's not on and it's not been remapped ask how that was accomplished).

Last edited by MrNoisy; 06 May 2009 at 11:14 PM.


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