phil739

iTrader: (30)

i have a my00 uk and i have noticed that when just driving around town at a constant speed of about 30 or 40 the car seems (how can i word this) like i keep lifting my foot on and of the pedal slightly..

is it a common problem or do i need to get something sorted
mods
sport cat
dump valve
and kn cone filter

cheers phil

c_maguire

Sounds like a dodgy Lambda (o2) sensor randomly tweeking the fuelling. Failing Mass Air Flow sensor can cause similar symptoms but may also cause hesitation under full throttle. If you have already replaced one then I would say change the other. If you don't know the history of either then as it's an MY00 and the MAFs are fragile anyway why not just replace both for piece of mind ( if you buy genuine parts they are both around £75 each ).
Kevin

P1 FEK

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem, turned out to be the Lambda. Do a search on ebay or google for Bosch LS02 3 wire lambda, bought mine for £48 delivered.

phil739

iTrader: (30)

had the car check 2 weeks ago by graham goodes and they went out in it and plugged it in to what ever they plug it in to and the only fault which they could find was an old knock sensor which has been replaced ,

surly if it was one of the above it would of been picked up on there gadget

c_maguire

Not necessarily. If you have a short or open circuit in a sensor then the ECU will normally disable that sensor, spit up a Check Engine light and run on default settings if possible. A cam position sensor for example is either working or not and its o/p is on or off. The o2 or MAF o/p s vary between 0-1v and 0-4.5v respectively. In your case where the car is almost running fine then to check these items requires specialist equipment/knowledge, not just a laptop connected to the ECU. In your position (and I have an MY00) I have and would replace the o2 and MAF as a matter of course every 50000 miles anyway. I think you say you have a cone filter so that MAF may be on borrowed time anyhow.
Kevin

Alan MaC

Clean the MAF Sensor with Fuel Injector Spray on a cotton Bud very gently.

You will be surprised at how much Donkey Dirt comes off it.

The other thing is, if you have a sports panel filter, a Good fettle with a brush or, the full K&N cleaning kit.


Good Luck.

Regards

Alan MaC

weeebell

iTrader: (1)

Unplug the lambda and take it a drive. I had same problem and have unplugged mine for now. Runs like a dream, although I wouldnt advise running it unplugged!! Mine became nearly undrivable.

DANGEROUS DAVY

Same problem with my 2000 bugeye the cone filter can knacker your maf costs about £280 for a new one for bugeye

pslewis

My car has always hesitated slightly, worse if held at 2800-3000 RPM, thats 8 years now.

phil739

iTrader: (30)

is that deffo the one i need for a my00 uk , as had a look on ebay and couldnt find anything ..


so if i unplug the sensor and it doesnt do it , am i right in saying that its that , that needs replacing ..

also not to sound to dim am taking that the lambda sensor is the one in the downpipe just after the turbo??

Nick_Cat

iTrader: (5)

Do a search for surging/hestitation. This was well covered a few years back when quite a few people moved upto MY99/00 cars and found this problem.
It is usually experienced around 2500-3000 rpm on light throttle.

It seems to be worse on MY00 cars and can be helped by replacing the ECU to the AE800 or AE801's found in MY99 cars. I did this and it improved the problem.

Nick

c_maguire

If you unplug the Lambda (which is the one on D/P just below clutch fluid reservoir) then the ECU sees this as a faulty sensor and reverts to default settings and may or may not spit up the Check Engine light. If the problem is gone then you have your answer. When you plug it back in the Check Engine light will go away on restart. You can't do the same with the MAF.
Kevin

phil739

iTrader: (30)

have removed the senor and does seem to drive alot better , didnt see any warning light on the dash tho while it was out ,
looks like i might invest in a new one ..

best place and best price ???

thanks all for your help

Zola-the-master

It seems to be worse on MY00 cars and can be helped by replacing the ECU to the AE800 or AE801's found in MY99 cars. I did this and it improved the problem.

Nick[/QUOTE]

Thats exactly what i've done to my my00. I removed the AE802 and replaced it with a AE800 and i has definately helped (not completely removed though).
I have also read that the AE800 and the AE801 give you a 15bhp increase too, which i believe is due to the AE802 running too rich.

Read this:http: 99/00MY OEM ECU Comparison

The Zohan

I thought all my00's, or nearly all suffered from this, inherrant issue with the stock chip/map.

if worse than usual i would suspect the maf.

If your air filter/induction kit is a wet type then could be oil contamination over a period of time or just plain overoiling when serviced.

s70rjw

iTrader: (2)

Switching to 97 RON or better sorted mine.

P1 FEK

iTrader: (1)

After search around on the net I found that I needed a replacement 3wire for my year 2000 P1 and the Bosch LS02 cured my problems, runs lovely now. I think yours will also be a 3wire lambda, have you checked?
Try these people
BOSCH UNIVERSAL LAMBDA SENSOR LS02 on eBay, also Injection Fuel Systems, Performance Tuning Parts, Car Tuning Styling, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 29-Mar-08 11:24:10 GMT)

phil739

iTrader: (30)

yes deffo 3 wire one . will have a look on the website see what i can find , would it be the same one for a p1 as mine??

sure i saw bosch writen on the lambda sensor when unclipping the wire will have to see if i can read the number

Nick_Cat

iTrader: (5)

I've always put super in the car, but found that it varies depending on which type. Best is Tesco 99, almost no hesitation at all; worst is Esso Super: almost as bad as before the ecu was changed.

Nick

P1 FEK

iTrader: (1)

I would expect it to be the same as the P1 but prob best to ask the supplier, they should know. The Bosch is a quality peice and comes with a new plug and connectors etc.
As far as I understand it the 3wire lambda's are simply a signal wire(black) and two identical heater wires(white), pretty staight forward to conect up.

pslewis

This is the baby:-

Universal 4-wire Zirconia Heated Oxygen Sensor :: Gendan Automotive Products

phil739

iTrader: (30)

thats a 4 wire one , thought it was 3 wires ..???


always use tescos super

cheers phil

phil739

iTrader: (30)

can anyone comfirm if its 3 wire or 4


thanks phil

c_maguire

3 wire for you
Kevin

P1 FEK

iTrader: (1)

get a Bosch sensor, much better quality than most of the universal offerings out there.

Zola-the-master

The universal ones tend to fail quite quickly, I had one that only lasted approx 6 weeks and i was back to square one . I'm currently useing a bosch one from scrapped nissan primera.

phil739

iTrader: (30)

have emailed this guy and seems to think its a subaru part only ....

was quoted by graham goodes 220
there is a bosch one in at the min but just cant read the part number , and not sure how to remove it

P1 FEK

iTrader: (1)

Do a search on this forum and you'll find others using the Bosch LS02. I just use an adjustable spanner to remove mine.

phil739

iTrader: (30)

will have a go at getting it off later ..and see what code it says ...

can you remember the code on yours??

thanks phil

phil739

iTrader: (30)

took the old one off and it reads L1C BOSCH A24-A71028 9Y180 have emailed the ebay seller above to see if he can help further..

he has asked for the engine number but all i can read cos of the intercooler bracket is 9138219275 ...

does this sound right or have i some missing

cheers phil