What to look out for when looking at a WRX?
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What to look out for when looking at a WRX?
Hi,
Just joined and cant see a newbie section so I guess I'll put my first post here.
As you can probally tell by my user name I havent got a Subaru yet but I have wanted one for as long as I can remember and finally looked at one this morning. Just really looking for as much advice and what to look out for say problem areas etc
The car is a k-reg WRX import model, I have looked all over the bodywork for crash damage (none that I can see), checked the wheels for impacts or kurb damage (none) and checked the tyres for wear etc all fine. Until I go back maybe Friday or Saturday morning and drive the car and see it running I cant check anything else. Ive spoken to the dealer on the phone and the car has 56k on the clock and has just been fully serviced.
Thats about it really, just any help will br greatly accepted
Cheers
Just joined and cant see a newbie section so I guess I'll put my first post here.
As you can probally tell by my user name I havent got a Subaru yet but I have wanted one for as long as I can remember and finally looked at one this morning. Just really looking for as much advice and what to look out for say problem areas etc
The car is a k-reg WRX import model, I have looked all over the bodywork for crash damage (none that I can see), checked the wheels for impacts or kurb damage (none) and checked the tyres for wear etc all fine. Until I go back maybe Friday or Saturday morning and drive the car and see it running I cant check anything else. Ive spoken to the dealer on the phone and the car has 56k on the clock and has just been fully serviced.
Thats about it really, just any help will br greatly accepted
Cheers
#2
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Is it a fresh import? Chances are if it is then it won't have much by way of service history with it - usually even if there is unless you can read Japanese it may not be much use! 56k sounds very low for a K plate, bear in mind that some if not all of this may actually be in kilometres unless it has been converted since being in the UK. Has it got any modifications at all?
Welcome to the site by the way!
Welcome to the site by the way!
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Is it a fresh import? Chances are if it is then it won't have much by way of service history with it - usually even if there is unless you can read Japanese it may not be much use! 56k sounds very low for a K plate, bear in mind that some if not all of this may actually be in kilometres unless it has been converted since being in the UK. Has it got any modifications at all?
Welcome to the site by the way!
Welcome to the site by the way!
From the outside and inside really the car looks very factory finish, the OE low boot spoiler is still there, all the black trim at the bottom of the car is all there and very Black, standard 16" Gold Subaru 5spoke alloys, the ride height looks abit aftermarket but i cant be sure, it dosent look low . . . just right.
The only thing thats looks to have been changed is the exhaust which seems to be a universal can about 3"-3.5" I cant see if its a full system but it looks like just a back box from what I can see.
I wont get a chance to look at the engine till I go back, Im hoping its very standard as the early models are quite retro now in factory look and I think with so many that have been modifed it'll be nice to have the classic look.
Any rattles of squeeks I should listen out for, any areas prown to oil leaks? etc etc
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the mileage does seem very low for a K plate.
What sort of cost is it going for?
When you test drive it, make sure it gets warmed up and make sure you take it to at least 5000rpm. reason I say this is because the engine control unit if it detects a problem with any sensors then it will make the car run like **** at around about 4500rpm, sensors can be costly to replace. If there is a fault then you usually get a CEL (Check Engine Light) on the dash, you can see this when you turn the ignition on. IF there isnt one that comes on then the chances are the bulb has either blown, or more likely been removed (to mask a fault).
Go through all the gears, should be smooth, also check for any droning type noises on overun etc (possible diff issues or gearbox issues)
If you do buy it, if there is no history with it, then get the cambelt changed as a precaution, thing is with that age of car you may also need a new tensioner which adds to the cost. Expect around about £250 ish for the belt change and maybe about £100 for the tensioner. Check for smoke etc on boost and off boost etc, and also colour of the oil as that can be a good indication of how the engine has been run. You can also check the gearbox oil level as well, there is a dipstick underneath the intercooler on the driver side.
when the engine is running check for any noises. Now you will probably hear the boost solenoid ticking away on the drivers side suspension turret, but listen for other noises. You can get noisy injectors, but the main thing is bottom end noises that you need to worry about.
Radiator end tanks are prone to splitting as they are usually plastic and with the heating and cooling cycles of the engines they do tend to crack with age, not expensive to fix but it is extra expense. Just check around the radiator for any signs of coolant leakage etc.
What sort of cost is it going for?
When you test drive it, make sure it gets warmed up and make sure you take it to at least 5000rpm. reason I say this is because the engine control unit if it detects a problem with any sensors then it will make the car run like **** at around about 4500rpm, sensors can be costly to replace. If there is a fault then you usually get a CEL (Check Engine Light) on the dash, you can see this when you turn the ignition on. IF there isnt one that comes on then the chances are the bulb has either blown, or more likely been removed (to mask a fault).
Go through all the gears, should be smooth, also check for any droning type noises on overun etc (possible diff issues or gearbox issues)
If you do buy it, if there is no history with it, then get the cambelt changed as a precaution, thing is with that age of car you may also need a new tensioner which adds to the cost. Expect around about £250 ish for the belt change and maybe about £100 for the tensioner. Check for smoke etc on boost and off boost etc, and also colour of the oil as that can be a good indication of how the engine has been run. You can also check the gearbox oil level as well, there is a dipstick underneath the intercooler on the driver side.
when the engine is running check for any noises. Now you will probably hear the boost solenoid ticking away on the drivers side suspension turret, but listen for other noises. You can get noisy injectors, but the main thing is bottom end noises that you need to worry about.
Radiator end tanks are prone to splitting as they are usually plastic and with the heating and cooling cycles of the engines they do tend to crack with age, not expensive to fix but it is extra expense. Just check around the radiator for any signs of coolant leakage etc.
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ahh yes forget to mention, they are prone to the rocker covers leaking oil, generally its not huge amounts but its a leak never the less. Not really expensive to fix (if diy) but can be fiddly, off course there are 2 due to the engine layout.
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The car is advertised at £3995 of course Id try and get alittle off it even if I thought it was worth it. The dealer said and it is in the advert that the car has had the cambelt done along with a service so thats a load of my mind, like I said I was told the car has been in the UK for a little while and had one UK owner it sounds like.
The story I was told was bloke bought the car, broke up with his wife, got together with another woman (probally what caused the break up lol) she had kids so he part ex'd it for a Jap people carrier. Wheather this is true hmmm not sure but the car looks worth the chance.
Most of the others I have been looking at over the last few years all seem to be mod'd and hence boosting the price, and a near standard WRX import doesnt come up often by the looks of it. Most of the WRX's seem to end up with the most mod's etc and the UK turbo2000's all seem to be very high mileage.
Hope it turns out to be as good as it looks, we're see
The story I was told was bloke bought the car, broke up with his wife, got together with another woman (probally what caused the break up lol) she had kids so he part ex'd it for a Jap people carrier. Wheather this is true hmmm not sure but the car looks worth the chance.
Most of the others I have been looking at over the last few years all seem to be mod'd and hence boosting the price, and a near standard WRX import doesnt come up often by the looks of it. Most of the WRX's seem to end up with the most mod's etc and the UK turbo2000's all seem to be very high mileage.
Hope it turns out to be as good as it looks, we're see
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#10
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Turbo 2000 is an ideal first sub, and you can very easily get it well past the WRX power wise...with a little money spent of course. Although obviously this will put your insurance up, but not to import levels.
Alan
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Try to purchase one from a reputable garage at least if something does go wrong you can pursue the Dealership, secondly 3995 for a 1993 seams rather top wack, unless it looks immaculate with sensible mods on the exterior and engine.
worth trying jap performance uk, think they do have a few WRX's, Link Jap Performance
Oh have you any pics of the 1993 WRX you've seen?
Steve
worth trying jap performance uk, think they do have a few WRX's, Link Jap Performance
Oh have you any pics of the 1993 WRX you've seen?
Steve
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some good advice given,you can afford to be choosy,dont rush into a purchase as theres load about.this one is a nice car for about the same money.
MY 98 UK Turbo 2000 - .:ImprezaSport.net Forums:.
MY 98 UK Turbo 2000 - .:ImprezaSport.net Forums:.
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to put it into perspective a bit, I sold mine recently for 2k, if you view my scooby you can see the specs of it. That was a 1992 K plate, bodywork was immaculate, few scrapes on the alloys, drivers seat was worn (side bolsters japs are small, I am not ) had new steering wheel that matched the interior etc, very good running and sounded so sweeeeet. What have I done
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Welcome to SN!
I tell this to all newbies:
YOU don't look for anything! (not unless you're a good mechanic)
Get the car professionally inspected; could save you a fortune!
Ns04
I tell this to all newbies:
YOU don't look for anything! (not unless you're a good mechanic)
Get the car professionally inspected; could save you a fortune!
Ns04
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Must have history.
Look at the mileage another way, let's say, for arguments sake, 56000 miles, car is K reg, thats 1992, so it is 16 years old.
That is 3500 miles a year
291 miles a month
67 miles a week
How does this sound ?
I suggest, if you can, try and buy a newer model Impreza.
Look at the mileage another way, let's say, for arguments sake, 56000 miles, car is K reg, thats 1992, so it is 16 years old.
That is 3500 miles a year
291 miles a month
67 miles a week
How does this sound ?
I suggest, if you can, try and buy a newer model Impreza.
#17
For 4k you should be able to get a newer car than that.
Example: I sold my MY00 for less than £6k with 45,000 miles a few months ago.
A quick look on Pistonheads shows this as an alternative: Subaru : Subaru Impreza Prodrive Turbo (UK) Wagon
Example: I sold my MY00 for less than £6k with 45,000 miles a few months ago.
A quick look on Pistonheads shows this as an alternative: Subaru : Subaru Impreza Prodrive Turbo (UK) Wagon
Last edited by michaelro; 22 February 2008 at 02:19 PM. Reason: Add Link
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Example: I sold my MY00 for less than £6k with 45,000 miles a few months ago.
A quick look on Pistonheads shows this as an alternative: Subaru : Subaru Impreza Prodrive Turbo (UK) Wagon
There aren't many genuine UK low mileage examples left now!
ns04
#19
Expecting a little one and couldn't justify the overall running costs while my missus wasn't working.
#23
A little way away from and more money but it'd be worth the extra money:
Subaru : X reg 2001 uk turbo for sale
Subaru : X reg 2001 uk turbo for sale
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