Ilya

hi everyone, i have just come back from a garage where I had a set of EBC yellow stuff pads installed both front and back. I decided to try EBCs after Ferodo's 2500 that I was quite happy with, but died after long use. On the way home brakes squeled like bi----s, is it just the run-in process? How many people here tried these? Any good I don't know what to expect.

chieftain333

I dont know about the yellows but I had the greens and thought they were absolute garbage,ive actually gone back to standard and they are better
I think the squeeking will be the beding in process, should disapear in a few miles
Andy

53

iTrader: (41)

Mine didn't squeal, had them fitted all round.

Ilya

I've only done like 10 miles so far and intend to go for a drive this evening... I really do hope that the noise will go away...

projectsubaru

Yellows are 2 stages up from the greens,Mostly light cars run greens as they are very soft and wear very quick ie 106 gti/205gtisaxo even caterfields. The yellow is ebc trackday pad so it will squeel as so do my reds. Once bedded in try some spirited driving and im sure they will be great

53

iTrader: (41)

Do some heavy breaking/emergency stops but they are normally, from what I've experienced and what I was told , spot on from day one.

burns

iTrader: (1)

unless they have changed the compound within the last couple of years I always thought that yellow stuff pads were for track use only. I had some and they were S**te when cold, bordering on dangerous went back to ds 2500's work well from cold with no fade.

GlesgaKiss

I've got redstuff on mine, and they take a good while to bed in properly so I would imagine yellowstuff would take alot longer. They are really intended for track days, or people that drive like nutters on the road...they need heat in them to work properly.

Alan

Ilya

I am afraid I am sometimes a nutter ...

GlesgaKiss

thats terrible. . I of course only uprated my brakes for show as I rarely go over 50. hehe, I still think you should maybe have went with the redstuff. Could be wrong...keep me updated after they're bedded in.

Alan

lee green impreza

got yellow stuff on mine and they are fine, didn't think you needed to bed them in??

Ilya

I went for a half hour drive and the squealing seems to fade, but it is still a bit prsent at harder stops. A firm bite started to appear, however I didn't push it, just reasonable braking from 30-60 m/h. So far so good.

Shark Man

Can only echo that.

The only alternative is having to stamp on the pedal every 10mins to keep the brakes warm so to make sure the car will stop properly in a emergency.

T5NYW

iTrader: (4)

IIRC they have changed the Yellows to Ceramic pads like the later Red pads.

I found the Red Ceranic pads very good Hot or cold stopping (unlike the older non ceramic Red Pads.

3 peep I know run yellows Ceramics and swear by their hot and Cold stopping abilities

Tony

PS I wouldn't put EBC Greens on Pete lewis's Subaru

cw42

iTrader: (1)

my tuppence. Had reds then yellows on my old my99 uk turbo, the reds were ok but tended to fade and took a while to warm up, the yellows were **** hot out of the box, hot or cold and a lot harder wearing.
When it came time to upgrade the pads on my my03sti, it was a no brainer, yellow stuff went straight on the front.
They shouldn't squeal either, they've been fitted wrong if they do. Check the shims are in place and that copperslip has been used between the shim and brake piston.
Oh, and green stuff on a scooby! who the hell told you to put them on? that's just dangerous, as is driving along hitting your brakes every ten mins to "keep heat in them"
You're not driving an F1 car ffs!

danfranklin1

I had yellows all round on mine and found them rubbish, not enough stopping power - never stopped squealing, to the point I changed them back to OEM about 8 months later. I still have the yellow pads sat on a shelf in my garage, looking totally unworn - therin lies the problem, I think - they're really for track use, and I was never warming them up properly with my prissy motorway commute.

jaytc2003

iTrader: (1)

had the red stuff ceramics on an a prodrive setup, thought they were brill, worked straight from cold without issues, no fade either but I didnt really do any spirited driving.
The greenstuff I am surprised about, I had them on a sunny gtir and they were a mega improvement on the standard pads, but apparently not rated on the scoob. Yellows, again I thought they were inteded for track

53

iTrader: (41)

Are your yellows black in colour or yellow in colour ?

Stevesbluewrx

iTrader: (4)

I had Red's all round on my WRX. And now have yellows all round on the STi.

The yellows work very well. I had DS2500's on the front and they took ages to warm up and stop me.

Do you think that they haven't fitted the shims on the pads? Possible? I think EBC send the pads without the shims and you add them yourself etc.

Steve

T5NYW

iTrader: (4)

there are different cars and different pads

A) Newage or Classic
b) 4pots or Newage Brembos
c) old EBC Yellow (mk1's) or New EBC Yellow Ceramic

I've used DS2500, EBC red and EBC red Ceramic on newage Brembos an now using Pagid RS42-1

IMHO I rate them so far very close 1st EBC Ceramic reds a very close 2nd DS2500 3rd Brembo pad 4th Pagid RS42-1 Black a dire 5th EBC red.

I'll try the Yellows Ceramics this year

Tony

Mew

the whole point of ebc is u dont need to bed them in lol, my greenstuff on my bm (200bhp) never needed bedding in, nor the redstuff on my other bm.

they did sqeak a little at first so i took them off and put more copper grease on the contacts and the sqeak went away.

Horrid Cars

Not true, from the EBC website:

1. How to bed in your new brakes
Drive your vehicle steadily within the first 300-400 miles of road use only using the brakes violently in case of emergency. During this time use the brakes lightly and intermittently to achieve a matching between the pad and rotor which we call break in or bed in.
The speed with which perfect brake in will have occurred depends on how often the brakes are used. If you drive on a freeway or motorway and do not use your brakes for miles at a time, break in periods will be much longer. Using the brakes with caution during their early life will extend their wear life and greatly reduce the chances of rotor vibration or “shimmying” as it is known in the States. During the bed in time the pads will only contact the disc on a limited area until tiny irregularities in machining or misalignment of the pads against the rotor have been removed. You can easily see how far you have progressed with bedding in your new brakes by looking through the wheel spokes and evaluating pad contact. The rotor should look shiny and smooth across its surfaces from outside to inside in all areas of the rotor. If you have purchased EBC gold zinc or black zinc coated sport slotted rotors, all of these coatings should have been visibly removed across the entire braking area of the rotor. Break in times on European vehicles is usually considerably longer than on Asian or US built vehicles because of the design of the brake system. European vehicles use a “taller” brake pad and may tend to contact on the outer edges of the rotor first and gradually contact more towards the centre of the axle over the first few hundred miles. After you are confident that the pads and discs are perfectly mated, use the brakes on a quiet and safe road 5-6 times at medium pressure bringing the car from 60mph to 10mph. Drive the vehicle for a few miles to allow the brakes to cool and repeat this procedure. During this final break in a brake odour will almost certainly appear and this is perfectly normal. This is known as green fade where the surface resins within the pad finally cure and burn off.

Shark Man

I'd like to challenge them on that and do a cold stop test (as often experinced in general commuting where the brakes haven't been used agressively for 10mins or so - such as slow cruising, city traffic or motorways).

Put the OE pads on (beded in, of course), do 30mph with stone cold pads , and do an emergency stop and measure the distance covered to stop. Wait for them to cool back to ambient temp and repeat at 60mph.

Now then do the same test with bedded-in Yellows (and Reds...even Greens! Stick some Pagids and Ferrods R90 and DS2xxx in for good measure ), and measure the difference.

I'm interested to know this as facts, as much the next person ; seem the pad manufacturers aren't willing to provide such data (and remain impartial), focusing on warm/hot performance over anything else.

We could do a charity sweep-stake on bets made of which pad will win

fat_boy

iTrader: (1)

i put yellow stuff on my old williams when i went round the ring they were awsome couldnt knock them,but as for using them on the road i would say they are abit **** due to them needing high tempretures to work properly,and u dont really get them temps on the road, so
track= yes
road= no

Ilya

Whats the difference?

Mew

yeh there is that thin layer of "bedding in" on the pads but that goes dead quick in my experience on 3 cars iv never needed to "bed" them in for like 300miles.

and i know it says 300-400 up in that post u got there

but it also says on all car websites that their cars do better mileage per gallon than wot we actually get, i think that 300-400 miles takes into account the fact that u wont be canning ur brakes and cooking them everywhere

usually for me by the time iv used 3/4 my tank the brakes r fine, nothing (thats about 70miles and less than 100).

gud pads tho not the best by a long shot, but decent

Ilya

What's in your opinion the best?

Mew

iv had greenstuff, redstuff and yellowstuff lol

and iv had black diamonds as well, but the best is up to:

a) wot u can afford,
b) wot ur using ur car for,

greenstuff is advised for cars upto 200bhp,
redstuff is harder compound for 300bp (so recommended for subarus),
yellowstuff is for track which means it needs heating up b4 it will brake which is rubbish for normal driving,

if u got dough then look at get some nice calipers but i drive fast and i think the redstuff or equivalent should be fine

T5NYW

iTrader: (4)

Pagid Black lasted 2 Trackdays 300 miles and 2,500 road miles, must try Pagid yellows or blues,

After conversations with Other Scoob & EVO owners at Brands Hatch , I won't be using the EBC's Yellows as they have had issues with friction material parting from Pads and lockin a wheel up

Tony

ukbob

i would not put ebc anything in my rallycar ever again!complete s££t.i have stage times to prove how much time i lost using them!