mr hat

iTrader: (2)

test drove a version 3 sti today and really liked it, its totally standard including exhaust and was quite quiet compared to my old uk classic which had a full decatted scoobysport system including downpipe. what r the best mods to fit on a standard sti?? is the downpipe a better design than the uk model? how many cats are fitted? would it be worth replacing the whole system or just from the downpipe back? should i get an apexi fc fitted and have it mapped by andy f who is just down the road from me for uk fuel? am i right in saying the sti has solid drop links all round? what else should i be looking at? thanks in advance.

mr hat

iTrader: (2)

anyone??

Marx Mcrae

iTrader: (4)

The exhaust is basically the same as any other classic apart from the back box.
Fitting a full decat is always the best and easiest was to get some more power.
Also get a good panel filter instead of an induction kit.
Getting Andy F to map the Power FC is a very wise move. Dont think there is anyone better than him. He will be able to make the most out of what you have done to the car. Will also map it for UK fuel

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Going for a standard car, if it is genuinely a standard car means you are more likelyl to get a vehicle that has not been flogged to within an inch of its life.
Be aware that people do put their cars back to standard before selling so they can flog the goodies off separately.
Normally the first mod is a full 3" turbo back exhaust system followed by a set of ported headers and uppipe and possibly a panel filter. There is no need to go for a cone as the OE airbox on the Classic is good for up to 350 bhp.
If you get someone who knows what they are doing with a wideband lambda sensor and head phones to detect knock they could fit a manual GBE valve to allow for a modest boost increase while maintaining safe AFRs. All these mods can be done without a remap for reasonable cost and show a good performance hike. After the above mods are completed it is time to consider more radical tuning which will also involve greater expense

Andy.F

Once you decat an Sti 3/4/5/6 in most cases the boost will be uncontrollable via the std ECU programme, a bleed valve of sorts can help with this however no amount of listening with det cans will ever compensate for lower octane UK fuel !

You can add a good quality octane booster (such as NF) at every fill up and this in the short term is the cheapest fix to keep it running safe.

Andy

fraser87uk

Run on V-Power only and you will be fine.

chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

not strictly true.

from what several helpful faces on here have said, jap fuel is 100ron and has been for some time, where as v-power is approx 98.6ron minimum (again i believe).

easiest thing to do is either use a bottle of octane booster every fill up, or have her mapped by god himself (sorry andy its true ) for uk v-power/tesco99 etc etc.

piccies

Gear Head

iTrader: (2)

Yes, but 100 ron was not standard in japan until after 2000 I believe.
The sti3/4 were not mapped for 100ron, so v-power should be fine.

chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

stand corrected, cheers chris

fraser87uk

Japanese pumps, take it from someone that has been there for months is 97, 100/102 and the rare rare 105/108. Cars are mapped for 97. The myth that Japan had super dooper dooper fuel for year and years is wrong. They only got 100/102 a few years back at most stations.

Andy.F

Are you claiming all JDM imported cars up until a few years back are mapped to 97 RON ?

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

the ignition timing is pretty larey on especially the sti, 97 onwards, 97ron would not be safe imho, and then decat causing increased boost... not an ideal situation.

Simon

chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

i dont think he realises who hes debating with. il pass the shovel.

andrew, please educate as you/zen performance and any decent mapper should be most knowledgeable in this field

harvey

iTrader: (48)

I have modified numerous Jap cars as I have outlined above, as has Jonny Gav and many others and let me assure you the process is safe. None of these cars suffered engine failure to my knowledge because of these modifications although I would expect engine (and transmission life) will have been reduced.
Obviously it helps if the car runs on V-Power and preferably NF and it should be checked out on that fuel. No point checking the set up on a good fuel/mix and then going to 97 or worse 95 Ron. However, driven sensibly these vehicles can if necessary run on 95 RON fuel when you are caught short. Just drive sensibly.

Andy.F

mr hat, rather than listen to some of the seriously dodgy advice you are being given here, give David a call at API engines.
Ask him the following 3 questions.
Is it true he manages to keep a team of guys employed rebuilding blown up Subaru engines ?
Are a high percentage of the blown engines from imports or decatted/modified cars ?
Would he recommend remapping an import after he has rebuilt it ?

From the answers you should be able to see the light regards the way forward with your import

trigot33

API certainly know there stuff.