Problems after 1 week of ownership on 06 Spec-C
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Problems after 1 week of ownership on 06 Spec-C
Last week I was so happy that I have finally got my MY06 Spec C, so much better than others car that I drove. I will post some pics later this week.
However only after one week I have found some issus.
1. My rear passenger side suspension has devleoped a knocking noise, car has only done 7k miles, sounds like the suspension is lose. I tried to get to the suspension and tight the bolts up but I cant remove the seats and got no idea how to get to it. Can somone guide me how to get to the rear supsension.
2. The car seems to only boost to 0.6-0.7 bar (got a Defi gauge), doesnt sound right to me? What should the standard boost be on these new Sti? Is sonething wrong, cant imagine the turbo is dead after 7k..
However only after one week I have found some issus.
1. My rear passenger side suspension has devleoped a knocking noise, car has only done 7k miles, sounds like the suspension is lose. I tried to get to the suspension and tight the bolts up but I cant remove the seats and got no idea how to get to it. Can somone guide me how to get to the rear supsension.
2. The car seems to only boost to 0.6-0.7 bar (got a Defi gauge), doesnt sound right to me? What should the standard boost be on these new Sti? Is sonething wrong, cant imagine the turbo is dead after 7k..
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Is your car remapped?
If its not then its knocked the multiplier back to stop det, only 2 ways to reset it, disconnect your battery for a while or have it reset on a pc with the right software.
You could take it back to where you got it about the suspension (where was that?)
Tony
If its not then its knocked the multiplier back to stop det, only 2 ways to reset it, disconnect your battery for a while or have it reset on a pc with the right software.
You could take it back to where you got it about the suspension (where was that?)
Tony
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Last week I was so happy that I have finally got my MY06 Spec C, so much better than others car that I drove. I will post some pics later this week.
However only after one week I have found some issus.
1. My rear passenger side suspension has devleoped a knocking noise, car has only done 7k miles, sounds like the suspension is lose. I tried to get to the suspension and tight the bolts up but I cant remove the seats and got no idea how to get to it. Can somone guide me how to get to the rear supsension.
2. The car seems to only boost to 0.6-0.7 bar (got a Defi gauge), doesnt sound right to me? What should the standard boost be on these new Sti? Is sonething wrong, cant imagine the turbo is dead after 7k..
However only after one week I have found some issus.
1. My rear passenger side suspension has devleoped a knocking noise, car has only done 7k miles, sounds like the suspension is lose. I tried to get to the suspension and tight the bolts up but I cant remove the seats and got no idea how to get to it. Can somone guide me how to get to the rear supsension.
2. The car seems to only boost to 0.6-0.7 bar (got a Defi gauge), doesnt sound right to me? What should the standard boost be on these new Sti? Is sonething wrong, cant imagine the turbo is dead after 7k..
Mark
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The suspension is likely to be the strut. It is well documented on here and many including myself have had the same problem. I resolved mine by binning it and getting the Type 25 suspension set fitted at Powerstation.
I would say on the boost you should be seeing around 1.1/1.2 bar when on boost.
HTH.
I would say on the boost you should be seeing around 1.1/1.2 bar when on boost.
HTH.
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I have to say my MY06 Spec C has had exemplary rear suspension over 10k miles so it does not affect all cars.
Removing the rear seat is a doddle.
The main seat squab has two fixing points (where the back of your calves would be if you were sitting in the back seat). Once these two bolts are undone lift up the front of the squab and that should release it. If not there is a 'hook' which is at the centre of the squab in directly between the fixings for the rear central lap belt. Once the squab is loose it is easy to put your hand in and release it.
Then you undo the three bolts for the seat back and it is out.
You now have clear access to the strut tops.
Removing the rear seat is a doddle.
The main seat squab has two fixing points (where the back of your calves would be if you were sitting in the back seat). Once these two bolts are undone lift up the front of the squab and that should release it. If not there is a 'hook' which is at the centre of the squab in directly between the fixings for the rear central lap belt. Once the squab is loose it is easy to put your hand in and release it.
Then you undo the three bolts for the seat back and it is out.
You now have clear access to the strut tops.
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Car has just arrived from Jpan, so I dont think is mapped (unless its done in Japan). I initially thought it could be a lose boost pipe may be soemthign to do with boost gague, but cant find any lose hose. Might just try disconnetting the battery method.
I will take it back to the importer about the suspension, is it ok to drive for now, becasue I am like 200 miles away.
I will take it back to the importer about the suspension, is it ok to drive for now, becasue I am like 200 miles away.
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The suspension is likely to be the strut. It is well documented on here and many including myself have had the same problem. I resolved mine by binning it and getting the Type 25 suspension set fitted at Powerstation.
I would say on the boost you should be seeing around 1.1/1.2 bar when on boost.
HTH.
I would say on the boost you should be seeing around 1.1/1.2 bar when on boost.
HTH.
If this is a common problem, how come Subaru has not rectify this when devleoping the new model.
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Is your car remapped?
If its not then its knocked the multiplier back to stop det, only 2 ways to reset it, disconnect your battery for a while or have it reset on a pc with the right software.
You could take it back to where you got it about the suspension (where was that?)
Tony
If its not then its knocked the multiplier back to stop det, only 2 ways to reset it, disconnect your battery for a while or have it reset on a pc with the right software.
You could take it back to where you got it about the suspension (where was that?)
Tony
Does this work on new Stis, I thought the disconnecting battery method only works on classic car.
Have you tried it on newer cars?
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Classics also had the option of doing the manual reset with the plugs, this isnt available on a new age
And have I tried it? 3 years of running a Spec C and yes it works fine (also running on the factory map )
Tony
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PowerStation
The JDM STi OEM set up I found was unsuitable for our UK roads and felt too unsettled.
#12
ECU will be expecting 100RON fuel and as such has probably backed the ignition right off due to detecting det because of lower octane fuel. What fuel are you running it BTW? You should either get it remapped or start using using booster IMO.
Last edited by MrRA; 13 May 2007 at 04:24 PM.
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sorry if u have checked this mate but make sure your have checked your jack in the boots because it sounds the same as failing suspension .thought mine was going till u removed the jack.
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It just resets the ECU back to its factory settings, though you can run the car on super unleaded, id advise also adding octane booster if you want it to run at its correct setting though even then it can knock it back
Classics also had the option of doing the manual reset with the plugs, this isnt available on a new age
And have I tried it? 3 years of running a Spec C and yes it works fine (also running on the factory map )
Tony
Classics also had the option of doing the manual reset with the plugs, this isnt available on a new age
And have I tried it? 3 years of running a Spec C and yes it works fine (also running on the factory map )
Tony
Are there any boost pipes I should check that it might have come lose?
Because I always hear this "sizzling Air" leaking noise when start boosting, but I always just thought is the turbo spooling up (lack of sound proof ).
Also tried to look into the engine bay but its so packed and cant find the boost pipe
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I would check the boost pipe to your DEFI... these can leak..
Maybe tee'd into the Dump valve vacuum pipe, and also check the hose is secure on your sender.
I am looking to reset my ECU as it has picked up a retardation from some crappy V-power.
Mike Wood ( Prodrive) reckons that ECU issues may resolve themselves over time on decent fuel or a reset is required.. Never heard of battery off method..other options include £50 leads (OBDII and ECU program 'shorting' lead) from the US and free software or dealer... Dealer wants £30, Scoobyclinic wants that +vat
Maybe tee'd into the Dump valve vacuum pipe, and also check the hose is secure on your sender.
I am looking to reset my ECU as it has picked up a retardation from some crappy V-power.
Mike Wood ( Prodrive) reckons that ECU issues may resolve themselves over time on decent fuel or a reset is required.. Never heard of battery off method..other options include £50 leads (OBDII and ECU program 'shorting' lead) from the US and free software or dealer... Dealer wants £30, Scoobyclinic wants that +vat
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I would check the boost pipe to your DEFI... these can leak..
Maybe tee'd into the Dump valve vacuum pipe, and also check the hose is secure on your sender.
I am looking to reset my ECU as it has picked up a retardation from some crappy V-power.
Mike Wood ( Prodrive) reckons that ECU issues may resolve themselves over time on decent fuel or a reset is required.. Never heard of battery off method..other options include £50 leads (OBDII and ECU program 'shorting' lead) from the US and free software or dealer... Dealer wants £30, Scoobyclinic wants that +vat
Maybe tee'd into the Dump valve vacuum pipe, and also check the hose is secure on your sender.
I am looking to reset my ECU as it has picked up a retardation from some crappy V-power.
Mike Wood ( Prodrive) reckons that ECU issues may resolve themselves over time on decent fuel or a reset is required.. Never heard of battery off method..other options include £50 leads (OBDII and ECU program 'shorting' lead) from the US and free software or dealer... Dealer wants £30, Scoobyclinic wants that +vat
#23
yeah had the same suspension problem aswell after 10k and now it has happened again at 18k miles, still under warranty but not sure how it will get sorted once and for all even after the warranty has expired!
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Cant belive such a common probelm and Subaru has not done anything to correct it on their newer cars
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