CallumW

Well I've been to Rustmaster and had me cavities filled (ooer missus) and thought I'd share the experience

I rolled in to the workshop where I met Michael who was pre-heating the wax while waiting for me to arrive.
He explained what he was going to do and a few ins and outs of the process and answered any questions I had.
I was happy leaving the car with him and so I set off to go make a nuisance of myself in the nearby Hatfield Galleria.
Michael buzzed me 30 mins before completion to let me know the car was ready and so I came back to find a very black faced Ozzy and a very happy car.

Michael explained a few things about post-treatment such as how to remove the excess cavity oil (dead easy) as well as informing me that my wheelnuts were only finger tight on my front left wheel when he was taking it off, so something to watch....

I was expecting a certain amount of burning as the exhaust caught overspray when the underbody hardwax was applied, so it was no shock when the car started smoking in between motorway stints
It looked like it was on fire with smoke wisping out the bonnet scoop (did the same when I had the exhaust wrap put on)
The car smelt like burning tar - then after a while it just smelt like underseal and then it was better. If you got out and came back it was like sitting in a jar of turps, but it would clear as soon as you got moving

Moving it's fine, it's just when you're at lights or a junction you notice it.
Early days yet and it still has to properly harden and burn off the exhaust so it'll be a few days until it returns to normal again

But I'm happy that it's been rustproofed and should lengthen the life of the Scoob alot

As a side note - I was filling the tank in the boot and got some water on the exhaust and it was hissing and spitting from the heat - so it looks like the overspray is also acting as a heat insulation on the exhaust as the tailpipe never normally gets quite that hot.
Bargain

.. and it's a bit quieter in the cab too. Not alot, but definately a noticeable the drop in tyre roar from the Yoko's


I haven't yet had a proper look under the car, but from what I've seen it looks good
I'd recommend it - even as a one off
(although I suspect you should 'top up' the cavity oiling every 2 years or so)

Give him a call. Decent bloke and one of the few things that is guaranteed to preserve the body of your car as well as improve resale value

Rustmaster- Waxoil Protection

finalzero

What year/model is your car and what was the total bill?

CallumW

Registered Nov 06
Mine's a company car so I had the works done which took 4 hours to clean, prep and apply cavity wax and hard underseal

£390 +VAT

Cheaper options available - give the man a call for what else he does and the cost

ru'

Quick question - why would you do this to a company car???

CallumW

.....because it's my company

and I'll be keeping it after the company's finished with it

ru'

Good enuff for me!

Microstar

Surely this will affect the Subaru warranty on the body - and possibly an other parts that the wax comes in contact with??

CallumW

Mine's a Jap Import Spec-C Type20 .... I'd rather rustproof it myself and know it'll last

You're all missing the point of this post.
If you're thinking about rust protecting your car - then I recommend RustMaster.

If you want to let your car rust then there's no point commenting here

Microstar

I have been in the motor trade (professionally) since the 1970's and rebuilt/restored most makes and types of car over the years. If you want the best in rust protection then use a product called 'Dinitrol'. It was developed in Scandinavia and is used on oil rigs, military bases etc etc all over the world. This is the stuff that restorers of classic Ferraris, Jags etc use. Its not cheap (1 litre cost £10+). You need about £60 worth to rustproof a car, plus a day's labour to do it properly.

More information at: Rust Preventon and Rust proofing products for automotive, marine and industrial applications

If you have a car under warranty then be aware that it could be invalidated by using rust protection materials (since there is possibility of reaction with, for example, electrical insulating materials and damage to oxygen sensors - which use their external surface as an atmospheric oxygen reference).

CallumW

Good post Microstar

I believe this is what he uses.... sounds like the same stuff.

I did a quick google search and found this on another site