Silly Questions about Numberplates
#1
I'm almost embarrassed to ask this but here goes:
I've just bought a new reg number for the Scoob, and I need to know a) how easy it is to remove and replace the numberplates ( I assume they are screwed on)
b) When I purchase the new set, how can I be sure I get the holes in the right places (other than taking the old ones off and overlaying them), and what am I best using to drill them out with? I am obviously assuming that new plates come with no holes pre-drilled as all cars differ.
The new number? well let's just say it'll be easy to spot me via my username.
Cheers
Steve
I've just bought a new reg number for the Scoob, and I need to know a) how easy it is to remove and replace the numberplates ( I assume they are screwed on)
b) When I purchase the new set, how can I be sure I get the holes in the right places (other than taking the old ones off and overlaying them), and what am I best using to drill them out with? I am obviously assuming that new plates come with no holes pre-drilled as all cars differ.
The new number? well let's just say it'll be easy to spot me via my username.
Cheers
Steve
#2
They're just screwed in, front and rear. The best way to drill the holes is to use the old ones as a template, as you suggest. Get a block of wood, put new plate on top, then old plate on top of that and drill through the lot of them (well, not through the wood or you'll make a hole in the floor). Drill from the rear of the plates not the front.
#3
Buy some sticky black foam pads from Halfords. You only need 8 of them to secure a number plate. It looks neater and theres no need for drilling. The factory (sorry, dealers) should do this so you dont have 'kin holes all over the place.
[Edited by Kippax - 10/18/2001 4:35:54 PM]
[Edited by Kippax - 10/18/2001 4:35:54 PM]
#4
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Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
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Quote:
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Originally posted by carl:
Drill from the rear of the plates not the front.
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If you do decide to use screws instead of sticky pads, make sure you drill the holes from the back as carl says. It'll stop/reduce water ingress between the reflective and the acrylic around the holes.
Rich
-----------------------------------------------
Originally posted by carl:
Drill from the rear of the plates not the front.
-----------------------------------------------
If you do decide to use screws instead of sticky pads, make sure you drill the holes from the back as carl says. It'll stop/reduce water ingress between the reflective and the acrylic around the holes.
Rich
#6
Thanks for the sensible replies to my daft questions.
One thing about the sticky pads is that I understand that the 'bracket' for housing the front plate is quite small.Are these pads good enough not to warrant covering a large area of the plate, to make sure it doesn't come off? Would I be best to secure the front plate with screws to be sure.
Steve
One thing about the sticky pads is that I understand that the 'bracket' for housing the front plate is quite small.Are these pads good enough not to warrant covering a large area of the plate, to make sure it doesn't come off? Would I be best to secure the front plate with screws to be sure.
Steve
#7
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SJP
For the front plate, try the sticky pads first.
Obviously, do this before you drill any holes.
If you don't think the pads are strong enough, then go for screw fittings.
If you want, drop me a mail and I'll send you some sticky pads to try out. (For free 'cos I'm in a good mood today!)
Rich
For the front plate, try the sticky pads first.
Obviously, do this before you drill any holes.
If you don't think the pads are strong enough, then go for screw fittings.
If you want, drop me a mail and I'll send you some sticky pads to try out. (For free 'cos I'm in a good mood today!)
Rich
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#8
I use about 8 stickpads (20mm square each) to keep the front and rear plates on mine. You try pulling the ba$tard plates off. The plate usually snaps in half before the pads give way.
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