T5OLF

iTrader: (4)

Is there anyway to test if your maf is in working order. I have the chance of buying a used one and the guy says its been checked and found to working ok. Is this correct?

harvey

iTrader: (48)

If anyone knows how to check out a MAF Sensor without fitting it to a car and checking it runs OK, please let me know. It would be very useful.

silent running

It most certainly would. I've got a 'spare' that I got from a breakers with allegedly 35k miles on it, but I'd like to test it off the car. So far all I can come up with is the same advice over and over again which seems more aimed at totally knackered MAFs - i.e. unplug it and the car still runs, or 'just replace it, it's only £70' - I wish! My 98 MAF is more like £300 so it's not exactly a service part.

What I'm after is how to tell when it's on the way out...do the voltages 'drift' with reference to airflow (e.g. MAF showing 1.0v idle / 4.9 v WOT normally, and over time creeping up or down to a markedly different voltage under the same airflow conditions)? Or is it the other way round i.e. the actual airflow 'drifting' with reference to voltage (e.g. voltage range stays the same - 1.0-4.9v but the actual airflow through it becomes greater or less?). Or is it even that response time changes (e.g. taking longer to register sudden airflow changes)?

Someone must know...

Or failing that, I'd happily stick in a new one if I could get one for £70, after all mine's already done 110k and presumably something that's basically a heated wire must eventually need replacing. But is there a reasonably priced equivalent to the MY98 blue label 'F' model of MAF that will simply drop straight in? Can the actual sensing part be changed on its own, leaving the actual body of the MAF original?