SC008Y_MAD

iTrader: (5)

My dad has won a free bottel of Shell Helix Ultra Fully Synthetic motor oil 5w-40.

Is this OK to use? The dealer where my dad has it serviced used fully synthetic oil.

Darren

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

What brand of oil was he using before? If he's been using a "true" fullly synth before, then I wouldn't use shell helix.

NS04

SC008Y_MAD

iTrader: (5)

I don't know what oil he was using. hes going to look on his service print out sheet thingy.

Darren

SC008Y_MAD

iTrader: (5)

He just had a look and it said BP 5w-40 fully synth

T_H_E__c_R_O_W

i doubt it will be real eather based stuff. :s

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Model, Year, Mods, Driving style, anticipated use?

:

SC008Y_MAD

iTrader: (5)

'03 WRX standard. Not a fast driver. used every day.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Should be fine then

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

Bottom line: Subaru recommend Shell Helix, so it's not going to be bad for your car (as long as you use the right grade, obviously, I think this is what Ali is getting at by asking about the driving style of the user and usage of the car).

BUT

A true fully synth such as Silkolene Pro S IS better quality oil.

My advice would be don't scrimp on oil (or petrol) in a high performance car, buy the best you can afford.

Ns04

s70rjw

iTrader: (2)

I've used it in my 00MY its fine.

SC008Y_MAD

iTrader: (5)

Yes...best you can afford.

it would be like saying...don't put citroen2cv oil in a Ferrari.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Without trying to sound like a Lewis...Just bear in mind semi-synthetic is the manufacturer's basic reccomendation for UK Subarus. Synthetic is better than that. Even if it isn't a full ester based synthetic, it still exceeds the requirements laid out by the manufacturer.

Sure, if you drive like a loon, and have loads of mods, go for the best. As extreme conditions degrades the oil's longevity of staying in grade and doing its job. But for everyday normal driving (excepting for journeys less that 10mins - which is as bad as hard use), you really need to question if it is doing any difference, as on every service, your draining oil out that's good for another 5000miles...unless you go for service intervals longer than reccomended (pop goes the warrantee) .

2 pence done with...now I'm going to run away from this oil thread before I get sucked it to another 5pager LOL

pslewis

Chuck it in ......... don't worry!!!!

Pete

pslewis

I will hand you over to someone who knows what they are talking about - strangely it matches my stance exactly

Jim Kerr is a master automotive mechanic and teaches automotive technology. He has been writing automotive articles for fifteen years for newspapers and magazines in Canada and the United States, and is a member of the Automotive Journalist's Association of Canada (AJAC).

He says, and I quote:-

"Many oil producers do not recommend mixing different brands of oils because of their different additive packages. If an owner is going to change oil brands, an oil change is a convenient time to do it, however, if you need to add oil don't worry if you can't find the same brand. I have never seen an engine fail because someone mixed oil brands but I have seen many fail because they were low on oil. Check that engine oil level often"

Pete

paul-s

my daily journey is about 10 mins each way - can you elaborate on this ?

If the protection isn't occuring until oil is up to temp, then my engine is wearing, but all journeys have to go thru this initial 10 minute warm up period of limited oil efficiency, how does me stopping the engine before its warmed up help. Once its up to temp the oil wont 'repair' the last 10 minutes of wear so to speak

pslewis

ScoobyNet Myth paul-s ............ I wouldn't worry about it - it's like the crap about removal of the crank-sensor lead after an Oil change.

I do 1.6 miles to work and 1.6 miles back again ............ 65,000miles under the old girls belt and it's completely knackered - NOT!!

Of course the engine isn't hot enough to 'open-up' during that 1.6 miles - hence it doesn't go over 2000RPM ..................... but, with 6 monthly Oil changes it's absolutely fine!! There is more engine wear on a car doing 100 miles everyday!

Pete

N*UFO

But we have been here before.....I work in the nuclear industry, as does/did mr lewis....... after a thread a couple of weeks ago i had a word with our works chemist, now we have nuclear significant plant ( eg diesel engines that have to work,when they are needed for as long as they are needed, their maintenance is taken as second to none,6 months,12 monthls and 2 yearly routines)He has said that and i quote"In 40 years, all of the oil going into our engines has met or exceded the quality expected , on not one occasion has oil tested before it has been used been rejected because it has not met the standard, and we have dealt with nearly every oil company there is".
SO.... IT DOES EXACTLY AS IT SAYS ON THE TIN!
Hope this helps....

pslewis

They STILL won't listen mate ......................

Some people just cannot get it into their heads that using Oil that meets Subarus recommendation is all that is required.

They will pipe on about, it's only £50 a year more so I go overboard and buy into the hype - because, quite simply they are being terrified into buying stuff thats not needed ................ overkill at over-inflated prices!

Now, if they are into rallying, or racing, or dragging ........... then they will need some other stuff, maybe. But then they won't be asking on here will they? They will KNOW what they need and get it ( I doubt it will have a fancy name on it either!! Not unless it's the sponsors stuff!)

Pete

bobthebodger

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Ignore PS on this one. I've seen more half dead engines with low miles from this type of driving than cars with mega high miles.

It's nothing to do with oil not protecting when cold (it does as soon as you start the engine) nor gently warming up, warming down, not using the turbo blah blah, **** this, Scoobynet **** that...


The problem in short is the engine doesn't get hot enough to boil off any moisture and contaminents in the crankcase. It gets damp in there, h2o is a by-product of burning petrol). Combined with unburnt fuel, creating various acids etc causes the oil to breaks down. It loses its detergent abilities, goes out of its viscosity range, forms sludge, (yes that nasty white/brown /orange scum you get on the filler cap), Not to mention the built up acids and moisture causing corrosion, pitting and etching into bearing surfaces.

The problem is compounded by some owners thinking "oh, I don't drive many miles, so I don't need to service it as often" - And then they wonder why their engine is more or less knackered by 40K.

It's all well documented, I suggest you use google.


Cure? Easy! Change oil more often, OR give the car a decent hours drive once or twice a week, that's all it takes.


I'm NOT an advocate of gently warming up or down engines, like some people here religiously do...sod it, just drive it! OK, don't thrash it to the redline and turn it straight off, but FFS I'd rather make progress than have a tractor welded to my bumper. Nor do I advocate using lar-de-dar oil changed every month "cos me mate told me". Just use what is suitable - if semi does the job - use it! If you drive normally - use normal intervals (short journeys and thrashing 'bout the lanes etc is NOT normal )

I've stripped down far too many "low mile" engines to find they are ruined from short journeys (and have to break the news to Mrs Moggins the white haired cotton bud, who drives 2 miles a day, why the engine in her car is no good). My advice is based on my findings and experience, without prejudice, also backed up on what is published on the public domain. - I don't sell oil, I don't rebuild engines (not for money anyway). Whilst I'm not some fool who gets a bee under his bonnet when someone twangs a piece of elastic in their Y-fronts

I've always advised to adjust the oil change interval based on its operating conditions and also choose an oil based on that too. Be it "normal" driving, thrashing round lanes or up motorways at 100mph or going round race tracks. All these have different requirements - doesn't need much common sense to work that out.

It is well documented that short journeys require shorter oil change intervals. Don't take my word for it. Or anybody else on here for that, find it yourself. And leave us on here to bicker about what constitutes senile dementia

dpb

Why o earth would anyone want a car to drive 1.6 miles anyway...
btw dont buy this car its knackered..!..

my 93

So PissMyselfLewis has had his car since new and most days it doesen't go above 2,000 rpm or over 1.6miles (ever heard of a push bike ) but he has the cheek to try to give everyone advice cos he knows a lot more than people who have experience with modding (unlike him). So if your only doing 3.2 miles to work and back and you have already told us that you don't give you car any stick then why are you changing your oil every 6 months as subaru recommend 7,500 miles or 12 months, Sounds like your adopting your own **** method here pete, (or is it because you really know more about your subaru than subaru themselves,

Lmao at the ultimate keyboard cruiser.

Mind you your stoopidity keeps me and a few others amused.

pslewis

WRONG!!

Dear GOD, it's a good job you only have 110 posts .... I don't think I could read much of your clap-trap without throwing my PC out the nearest Care Home window!!

Subaru tell me to replace my Oil at 6 months or 7,500miles ...... thats what I do.

They also state that cars running under extreme conditions need servicing more often.

Read your booklet first, before you come on here and becoming another Mr Stooooopid!!

Pete

16vmarc

Indeed Peter.

My oil is changed every 6 months without fail. I also use Shell Helix 5w 40 fully synthetic, I use the thinner grade as i do alot of short journeys so the thinner oil is better for the engine.

Worth mentioning too that mine and Petes are the classic shape which had the 6 months or 7500 interm services.

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

Just out of curiosity, how much more does fully synth cost than semi synth? I believe Silkolene's finest costs me 32 quid, exc vat. Let's say I go the 'non-****' route and put in shell helix, which is not a 'true' fully syth IIRC, how much would I save every six months?

I don't doubt for a minute that Shell helix is fine; if Subaru reccomend it, then it bloomin well should be. BUT good oil is obviously citical for your engine's health and fully synth IS BETTER than Semi and if it only costs a half tank of petrol more every six months, it's no great hardship is it??

NS04

ben44

That says not to worry about the different brands of oil, not different type you fool. Stop dishing out sh!te to people. Some poor bar$tard might listen to you one day.

16vmarc

I get Shell Helix 5ltr for £24 from local Motor Factors.

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

Thanks mate!

So, if we add vat to the cost of my Silkolene Pro S, I'm paying the princely sum of £14.42 more than someone who buys the Shell Helix every six months. Thats probably about a quarter of a tank of Optimax.

Now, lets be clear, Shell helix is fine, Subaru recommend it- that is NOT in dispute and you wouldn't criticise anyone for using it.

However, Shell helix is not a "true" fully Synth oil and a true fully synth oil like Motul or Silkolene Pro S IS SUPERIOR that is also not disputed.

So, here's the bottom line: you save £14 at each interim by putting the stuff that Subaru reccomend, OR you pay £14 and get something BETTER than subaru recommend.

The decision, as they say, is yours.

NS04

superstar1

It's also true that after 6 months Subaru light bulbs start going dull and need to be replaced. Also if you don't drive these cars with your hands at ten to three on the steering wheel, the steering wheel over time will start to warp and then you will have to go to Halfrauds to buy a special Max Power type. Also try to refrain from pulling to hard on the steering wheel or the rack will bend and the car will not go where you want it to go (a bit like a shopping trolley).
All this information can be verified by reading the Subaru owners handbook backwards and then translating this into Japanese, and then back into English again. I hope this information is useful as i plan to make further contributions that will benefit the Scoobynet community.

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

Noted!

Another top tip, if you use the right or middle pedal, your tyres will wear prematurely, and don't even think about using the left pedal, as then it's your clutch that suffers undue wear.

BTW the 'bright' button is *really* the MAF self destruct switch!!

Ns04