mozzaITA

Hi all, thinking of getting a wrx 93/94 reg or a pulsar.... basically are there any weak points to the wrx especially their engines?? what do i need to look for, Especially concerning modifiations?

thanks in advance

moz

mozzaITA

Hey, there must be something i gotta look out for? hoping to go and look at one on sunday.

cheers

moz

GC8

The biggest weak points are usually image and the previous owner.....

dpb

as above .......but specifically NO modded air intake, No fancy wheels that dont fit.........other than that your laffin..

....oh also check its never been run on anything other than shells finest.......

mozzaITA

Forgot to ask that, do they have to run on optimax only?? i know in japan they run on 100RON can we get away with running them on optimax which is around 98 right??

thanks in advance

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

Weak point? Their age!

Import scoobies will need to have been run on SUL, preferably AND Octane booster. You'll want one with as few owners as possible and one that has been in the UK as long as possible and has a comprehensive service history. It's particularly important to get the car inspected by a specialist!

NS04

mozzaITA

am i taking a huge risk buying a 94 import scooby then? Wouldnt optimax be sufficient? also i belive there is a tesco garage near me which supplies higher rated fuel than optimax!

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

Depends entirely on its history and condition. Jap cars are designed to run on 100Ron fuel. The highest we have (from a select few Tesco stations) is 99Ron. The use of lower grade fuel can lead to det, which can destroy an engine.

NS04

drb5

iTrader: (4)

I have realised they make a bit more noise than later engines.

I like to look at this a bit more raw power though.

mozzaITA

hmm, still going to look at a couple 2morrow. Fingers crossed

GC8

Buy a car thats just been imported; and make sure that it wasnt a piece of ****e bought from a dock auction. You need to see the auction appraisal sheet (if you cant then dont entertain it, no matter WHAT the excuse...), look for a grade 4 ideally or a grade 3.5 more realistically; dont consider any other grade. This is ScoobyNet and theres always someone who has to argue/know better, but as an importer Im confident that this is the best advice that youll get.


Simon

mozzaITA

Sounds like good advice.... i was just about to put up a post concerning wheather the length of time in this country is a factor...!!

axgt_bwaii

iTrader: (6)

the fuel type you use depends on how you intend opn driving the car realy. obviously buying an impreza youll intend on driving it fast and are well into your cars if considering owning and forking out all that insurance for it. if your conserned about fuel the get a scoobyecu in it maped to 97 fuel. other weaknesses i found on my93 is the radiator header tank poped through summer last year. just swap it for a newer age metal one. theres a few bits to winge about the early classics but its the same with most cars isnt it.

stew

GC8

It is; they cost f*ck all now and many owners abuse them through ignorance. You still have an excellent chance of getting a good car this way. I spoke to a youth with a 1994 WRX a few months ago as he was filling up with supermarket unleaded. The f*ckwit could barely string a sentence together, but he had no idea about fuel or maintenance, and when he drove off on a cold engine he hit the limiter in first and second. Think on, that car might be up for sale this weekend.....


Simon

mozzaITA

Just another quick question simon or somebody else could answer is when buying an import would it come with some sort of certificate to indicate it is an import? something perhaps the insurance company need? or will it have a different registration documant... perhaps there is something addition documentation i need to have when buying an import???

put my mind at easy

thanks in advance

One thing i dont know aswell is their exact performance stats for an wrx? anybody?

philc

I own a 93 WRX - was a fresh import when purchased 3 years ago with 70,000kms on the clock.

Only mechanical failure I have had was the clutch (replaced this with a heavy duty STI clutch)

Watch for whining turbos and appreciate the brakes are crap (replaced these with slotted rotors and bigger pads)

Apart from that it's done a faultless (much modded) 80,000kms

Oh - also check that the cambelt is okay (in fact I remember now that I had my prospective purchase checked over by the AA, especially asked for a compression test).

happy buying

GC8

An import thats already registered will have the notation 'previously used abroad prior to first registration' or similar on the V5. If its not been registered it must have a Japanese Certificate Of De-registration accompanied by a translation (if this is the case youre welcome to email me a scan before you comit to it). You also need the HMC&E for C386 which is hand-drawn and stamped to conform that duties have been paid (this can be forwarded to the VRO/SVA test centre if missing though).

With regards to your insurance; the car may well be recorded by the DVLA as 'Subaru Impreza' or 'Subaru Impreza 1.8GL'; in this instance youll need to write to the insurance company re-iterating that its actually a WRX or theyll try to shaft you when you come to claim.

Simon

mozzaITA

Again excellent help.... ive have phoned a few up 2day most have been sold, most are from dealers doesnt anybody wanna sell them privately??....

Are wrx's with say 100,000 miles best avoided>? even if it has a fully documented history? Ive got my eye on one which has been in uk for 6 years, one mature owner, always run on optimax and has done 104k miles.... 3 grand selling price, not sure wherether its worth a look.

Bad cylinder compression is very hard to spot, my last car had this when i bought it (unaware to me) dont wanna fall for the same trick, i know what symptoms to look out for wen mine had it!

GC8

Theres always an element of risk involved buying a used car and a 100k miler may be better than 30k miler..... You will benefit from a degree of protection in law if you insist that the seller describes the vehicle on the receipt, for example: "well maintained and sold without mechanical faults" if that follows the advert. Contrary to popular belief if this turns out not to be the case then you can move against him very easily in the County Court and youll win.

Ive seen a couple of cars that have had a holed piston that the owners have driven around for a long time without knowing..... but a leak down test or even a simple compression test is a b*stard to perform on these cars. Id look for a decent independant and arange with them for them to spend half an hours labour time looking at the car (more for the leakdown test); if theres anything un-toward they will find it and it costs a fraction of the cost of an 'AA' type inspection, better too. If the vendor doesnt want to allow this then Id f*ck him off.....

Simon