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P1 immobiliser driving me mad - help!

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Old 07 March 2005, 04:15 PM
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Gordo
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Question P1 immobiliser driving me mad - help!

We recently moved to Surrey and the remote often doesn't work in the town near where we live (no response at all) - presumably there's a phone transmitter in the area that clashes with the frequency or something.

What compounds the problem is that the keypad in the glovebox has stopped working (and flashes randomly when driving along), meaning that the only solution is to push the car along until the remote works.

Have changed the batteries in the remote (and have spare new ones in the car just in case) but makes no difference.

A) Can we have the frequency re-set?

B) Presumably the alarm system should be covered under the (extended) warranty?

Gordo

Last edited by Gordo; 07 March 2005 at 04:19 PM.
Old 07 March 2005, 04:18 PM
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GC8
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1,000 posts; congratulations
Old 07 March 2005, 04:22 PM
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spec-cie
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Originally Posted by Gordo
We recently moved to Surrey and the remote often doesn't work in the town near where we live (no response at all) - presumably there's a phone transmitter in the area that clashes with the frequency or something.
It's a known problem with 1999/2000 cars. Take it back to the dealer and they should fix it under warranty (same with the keypad).
Old 07 March 2005, 04:48 PM
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Gordo
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thanks!!! hadn't realised I'd got to 1,000 at last!
Old 07 March 2005, 05:00 PM
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Gordo
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will send the other half off to the dealer (she fecked up the keypad in the first place.....)
Old 07 March 2005, 05:13 PM
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comic cuts
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Hi Gordo,

The alarm ECU is probably being over ridden by higher powered local transmitters. The government very nicely allowed local authorities to use same frequencies! A shielded ECU would be available via a dealer but wouldn't be construed as a defect because there really is nothing wrong with the unit. however it might be worth asking extended warranty folks if they'll cover it. Your ECU would be sent back to alarm manufacturer for them to convert for someone else. Hope this helps.....

CC
Old 07 March 2005, 10:30 PM
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Sub69
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It's so interesting to read the posts in this thread, there is a town local to me where every time I park, I have bloody immobiliser problems with my MY00 Turbo.

Now I know the reason!!

Trending Topics

Old 09 March 2005, 09:37 AM
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Sigma Sam
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Gordo, from your post (lock-out aside, which I'll cover below) the randomly flashing keypad would indicate that the "button" membrane on the front of the keypad is damaged - this causes an intermitent contact on one of the buttons which the alarm unit sees as a repeated number entry which eventually leads to 3 incorrect PIN attempts and the alarm unit ignoring PIN attempts for 30 mins.
The membrane can be replaced separately (although there is no official part number), provided the keypad itself is not damaged. That should get the keypad working again.

With regard to the lock-out issue:

Radio Lock Out
- All alarm systems manufactured for use in the UK in ’99 were required to operate on the frequency of 433MHz. Subsequently, in late 2000, the government allowed the introduction of the “Tetra” radio network for telecommunications companies, the military, police, fire and ambulance services etc, which was allocated the 420-430MHz bandwidths.
Although not exactly the same frequency, these “Tetra” transmitters are licensed and so are allowed to operate at around 20,000 watts, compared with the alarm systems 0.5 watt radio key (necessary so that your radio keys remain exempt from annual licensing!)
As a result, when you are near a transmitting “Tetra” mast you can get a degree of “bleed over” as their signal is so much stronger and this can swamp the transmission from the radio key. This problem is not exclusive to this system and can occur on any number of manufacturers systems produced prior to 2001.
The receiver boards were redesigned to focus more accurately on the 433.92HHz frequency as soon as this problem became evident, however, systems manufactured before 2001, with the older receiver boards, are not faulty and were NOT considered eligible for warranty, although as a goodwill measure, customers who suffered from “exceptional” radio lock-out (ie lived or worked below a mast) were offered an upgraded receiver board if the vehicle was still within the warranty period.
This goodwill period was extended for a further 12 months after the 3 year warranty period expired, but ended in December 2004. The later ECUs are still available from Subaru (part number SACC 3465) but these are now chargeable.


Avoidance.
There are a few points that should be remembered:
- All vehicles that passed through the import centre from January 2001 are equipped with the latest receiver boards that are "Tetra Resistant" and so should not experience this problem.

- A keypad is fitted to ALL models with the UK standard fit alarm system (from 99 MY) as an emergency override, in the event of loss, damage, flat radio key battery etc. (The keypad also allows the driver to access a number of features and is a complete programming tool for the dealers) and so pushing/recovery of vehicle’s should not be necessary provided you know your override PIN and ow to operate the keypad.

- The keypad can NOT be affected by "Radio Lock-Out", as it is hard wired into the system and does not rely on a radio transmission.

- The keypad allows only THREE PIN attempts and then will "Lock Up" if an incorrect number is entered a third time. This is a secuity feature to prevent random attempts at steeling the vehicle, however, it is also an inconvenience if you are suffering "Radio Lock Out" and enter your PIN incorrectly.

- The PIN number should not be entered too quickly or too slowly - when a digit has been pressed the small LED built into the keypad will illuminate briefly as confirmation and only then should the next digit be entered.
If an incorrect digit is pressed or the delay between entering digits exceeds10 seconds, then the LED above the keypad will flash rapidly and the PIN attempt should be aborted and started again after 30 seconds.
Due to the small size of the keypad some users may find a rubber tipped pencil easier to use. DO NOT use the sharp tip of a ball point pen etc, or press excessively hard on the keypad as this will only damage the membrane and cause a digit to remain pressed, causing a continual incorrect PIN.

My advice is to read the alarm system's instruction manual, practice entering the PIN before you need it and, if you bought the car second hand, ensure you know the correct PIN as this could have been changed by the previous owner and can be changed to one of your own choosing, following the instructions in the alarm booklet.
Ensure your keypad is operational before you need it on a dark night!

I hope this has cleared up a number of points that have been raised and will help to keep everyone mobile.

SS
Old 09 March 2005, 09:43 AM
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Gordo
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SS

thanks for the (very comprehensive!) post - I suspect my other half damaged the membrane on the pad, as you say. I was aware of what it's for and successfully used it once several years ago to de-activate the immobiliser. Now that it appears to have stopped working/ be damaged, we have little choice but to push the car when the signal's not working.

We've been quoted £180+VAT to 'shield the transmitter unit' - presumably this means replacing the board as you refer to - I'll check with the dealer what they mean. I'll also ask them about replacing just the membrance.

Thanks
Gordo
Old 09 March 2005, 11:50 AM
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vindaloo
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There does appear to have been a 'variable' response to problems operating the alarm from Subaru dealers.

I have heard of some which have been replaced FoC. In my case an upgraded alarm was obtained but I had to pay for fitting it (one hour's labour).

I'd have a chat with a couple of Subaru dealers about the problem and see what arrangements are offered to resolve the situation.

Not having the keypad working sounds like a complete PITA though, so at a minimum I'd get that sorted out regardless.

J.
Old 09 March 2005, 12:17 PM
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Dave_A
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I've managed to get my key pad re-programmed with a new pin number, as I never knew it, as I've been having trouble with the radio transmitters around my home town.

I went out last night to a spot where I know the keyfob doesn't work, but where I can roll the car back to an area where it does if I get stuck. Keypad worked flawlessly, and allowed me to start the car where otherwise I'd have had to roll it back.

I do have the instruction manual for the sigma alarm, but not in electronic form. if anyone wants a copy, I'll see if I can get it scanned in.

Dave
Old 09 March 2005, 12:55 PM
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Wuss
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Red face

I kept having problems at garages when I stopped the engine to fill up with petrol (some Shell garages seem to have a phone mast!)

A simple workaround is to place the key fob down in the driver's foot well just above the pedals. Make sure the button is pointing upwards and the key fob will work every time - something to do with shielding the key fob from the interference.

The only problem with this solution is that it does not allow you to lock the car and activate the alarm if you are trying to park up somewhere. However, it will allow you to disarm the immobiliser and start the car...

Mark.

Last edited by Wuss; 09 March 2005 at 12:58 PM.
Old 09 March 2005, 01:28 PM
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Dave_A
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Originally Posted by Wuss
I kept having problems at garages when I stopped the engine to fill up with petrol (some Shell garages seem to have a phone mast!)

A simple workaround is to place the key fob down in the driver's foot well just above the pedals. Make sure the button is pointing upwards and the key fob will work every time - something to do with shielding the key fob from the interference.

The only problem with this solution is that it does not allow you to lock the car and activate the alarm if you are trying to park up somewhere. However, it will allow you to disarm the immobiliser and start the car...

Mark.
There have been times when I've tried every conceivable position around the car to get the immobilisor to disengage, including bonet up, under wheel arches, under car, in the car under dash etc etc. To somebody watching from a distance it probably looks like I'm trying to nick the car!

Theres a particular model of shogun that has a similar problem, and the get around is in the offside rear wheel arch....

Dave
Old 09 March 2005, 04:41 PM
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little_idiot
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I found this out on my first day of ownership.


Imagine my shock - gave my bro a lift to middlesbrough, parked up and quickly turned off the engine while i made a phone call. next thing i know the car won't start. At this point i have no idea how the alarm works, no idea where the key pad is or even my code! i wasn't a happy bunny at all!
Old 09 March 2005, 04:45 PM
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Husaberk
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Has the same problem with my 01 registered MY00 last year. Simpsons replaced the Alarm ECU under warranty as it is known fault and also diagnosed a faulty keypad which was replaced. They confirmed that the keypad should always get you running if it's working properly. All the work was done foc so can't see how anybody can charge for this if you're still under Subaru's warranty.
Old 10 March 2005, 04:03 PM
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Sigma Sam
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Originally Posted by Wuss
I kept having problems at garages when I stopped the engine to fill up with petrol (some Shell garages seem to have a phone mast!)

A simple workaround is to place the key fob down in the driver's foot well just above the pedals. Make sure the button is pointing upwards and the key fob will work every time - something to do with shielding the key fob from the interference.

The only problem with this solution is that it does not allow you to lock the car and activate the alarm if you are trying to park up somewhere. However, it will allow you to disarm the immobiliser and start the car...

Mark.
This may not work on all models. On 99-01 Imprezas the ECU is located above this area, but on vehicles from 01 to date the ECU is located to the LHS of the glove box. However, I really dont know why you should need to do this - this is what the keypad is intended for! You can re-program your system's PIN yourself (even if you do not currently know it) using the keypad, provided that you can arm and disarm the system with a radio key.
Full instructions can be found in the Operating Instructions supplied with the vehicle - for those of you that do not have a copy, the Operating Instructions these can be found at
http://www.subaru-impreza.org/subarutalk/viewtopic.php?t=2476

SS

Last edited by Sigma Sam; 10 March 2005 at 04:27 PM.
Old 10 March 2005, 04:09 PM
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Sigma Sam
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Originally Posted by Husaberk
Has the same problem with my 01 registered MY00 last year. Simpsons replaced the Alarm ECU under warranty as it is known fault and also diagnosed a faulty keypad which was replaced. They confirmed that the keypad should always get you running if it's working properly. All the work was done foc so can't see how anybody can charge for this if you're still under Subaru's warranty.
This is NOT a product fault and so will NOT be accepted under warranty!!!!
Units were changed on an FOC parts basis "in exceptional circumstances" if the vehicle was still within the warranty period. This was extended a further 12 months but has now ended.
Please read my original post (#8) on this thread!!
SS
(Sigma Technical)

Last edited by Sigma Sam; 10 March 2005 at 04:29 PM.
Old 10 March 2005, 08:49 PM
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Husaberk
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SS

I did read your post but I wasn't sure if it applied to Gordo as he said he'd extended the Official Subaru warranty. I can almost understand Subaru offering a limited goodwill period to upgrade out of warranty cars but if the car still has an official warranty I don't think it unreasonable for them to put the car right. It might not be Subaru's or Sigma's fault that the alarms they fitted to cars have had these problems but it's them who most people will blame. If I bought a MY00 from a Subaru dealer tommorrow with an extended warranty, drove it home and then couldn't get it started I'd be pretty livid if I got told I'd have to pay for it to be put right. I'm sure for some people it would be the last Subaru they'd ever buy.
Old 12 March 2005, 10:56 AM
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BigMikeyBoy
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In the summer last year, i parked my P1 up in a carpark that i had never used before, only to find that i couldnt lock it or start it etc!

Couldnt remember my pin number, so called for assistance as car was under warranty still, was put on low loader and brought home.

The offending piece of kit was replaced under warranty, took about half an hour!

Mikey
Old 12 March 2005, 11:06 AM
  #20  
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Exclamation

We've been quoted £180+VAT to 'shield the transmitter unit' - presumably this means replacing the board as you refer to - I'll check with the dealer what they mean. I'll also ask them about replacing just the membrance.
The dealer will just put in a brand new unit.

On the 99/00 cars, the alarm system was not sheilded - this is a well documented "feature" from this MY.

Mine was replaced under manufacturer's warrantee (Sigma), so it shouldn't cost you anything

Don't get ripped off by the dealer - go to a different one.

If however, the membrane is faulty, as SS stated, it isn't covered - get your wallet out!!

HTH

Dan
MY99
Old 12 March 2005, 03:22 PM
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Trashman
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