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Old 22 August 2000, 12:22 AM
  #1  
ransj
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It could be a dirty (or loose) cold start valve.

Looking at the engine, the cold start valve is located on the inlet manifold to the right of the throttle body. It has a plastic top with a three-wire connector and a 25mm (ish) pipe going back towards the air box.

You need to check that the top (actuator) is tight (two screws stop it twisting). If it is it may need cleaning.

First clean the actuator. Mark the position of the actuator on the valve body with tip-ex or simmilar, then undo the two screws and pull the actuator off the top. You then want to make sure the valve spindle rotates freely and the inner bit of the actuator is clean.

The next bit to clean/inspect are the actual valve internals, to do this you need to unbolt the valve from the inlet manifold and then give it a good clean.

Inside the opening into the manifold there is a simple 'rubber flap' type non-return valve this is usually the cause of the problems - hook it out and give it a good clean.

I hope this helps.

Simon
Old 22 August 2000, 12:43 AM
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phill chinn
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thanks, i'll give that a go.
Old 22 August 2000, 08:51 AM
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phill chinn
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Angry

After getting in from a hour and half motorway drive (70 mph), I noticed the idle speed was at 1500 rpm, I thought I would leave it until the morning see if it returned to normal (800-1000 rpm), but alas soon as I started it up it was at 1500.
At the end of the run to work (an hour and 20 mins motorway 60-70 mph) it's still the same, and has been for 2 days now, any ideas?
The only thing different in that time is filling up with ELF super plus at clackett lane on the M25.
Old 22 August 2000, 08:55 AM
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igratton
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Phil....do the revs fluctuate ?

I had a problem on my old MY97 turbo when the throttle position sensor failed. My car also had a high idle RPM (approx 1500 RPM)...but it did often go higher....plus the check engine light would come on. Part was replaced under warranty and the problem went away.

Early in the morning you can expect the revs to be higher as the electronic choke will be on...but it should settle down after a while.

Hope that helps....but it probably doesn't

Ian

[This message has been edited by igratton (edited 22 August 2000).]
Old 22 August 2000, 09:06 AM
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phill chinn
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Ian,
There is no fluctuation at all, I forgot to mention that I had a look under the bonnet, and had a little fiddle around the carb, every thing seam to be hard up against the stops, and no slack or stiffness in the throttle cable, unfortunately I’m no techy so that’s as far as I go.

phill
Old 22 August 2000, 10:17 AM
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Akira
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The Carb ???
Old 22 August 2000, 11:15 AM
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Mulder
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Prehaps you mean the throttle body?

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Old 22 August 2000, 11:45 AM
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phill chinn
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As I said I ain’t no techy, I find changing the water in the washer bottle a major feat of engineering, but I do enjoy driving and owning a scoob as much as your selves, it's clean tidy and regularly serviced,

ask me about SDH, PDH, and ATM ??????
Old 23 August 2000, 08:51 AM
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MickeyG
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A common cause of this on non-turbo cars is an air leak into the inlet manifold. I am not sure if this is still true on a turbo - but my guess is that the inlet manifold will still be at lower than atmosheric pressure when the car is idling, as the turbo will not be doulng a great deal. Therefore it is worth checking that all of the components bolted onto the manifold are seated properly and air tight.

Hope this helps, as it is a cheap option!!

MickeyG
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