compshack

Like many on here, the search for more power is a never ending process.
My current car, MY04 Sti Type UK with PPP, PFFF 18” wheels and Prodrive suspension upgrade all pretty UK Spec standard and has as yet not affected the warranty. The car drives superb both with plenty of power and handles the best I’ve ever had, but…

I’m in a dilemma to go any further with car I’m going to loose the warranty, which at the end of the day, on a 20 odd thousand pound car is something not to sniff at. My previous Sti an MY03 from Motorpoint didn’t have any warranty due to the de-cat and re-map and selling it or px was difficult, taking a big hit in depreciation.

The other half of me says if I don’t go for it I will never know.
Do I sell the current car and buy a MY01, 02 Sti and moddit to death, or modd the current car knowing the history and it being a better platform to start from.

I’ve been told by people that getting 400bhp out of a new Sti isn’t that much of a challenge, up rated turbo, induction, full de-cat, and re-map, costing in the region of £3k.
I’m concerned about the longevity of the internals, I need it to be reliable as it is a daily driver doing maybe 10.000 miles a year, are the new Sti motors that strong, basically upping the power by 33% is it going to be reliable?
And by increasing the power will the car become less drivable, reading reviews of the evo 400bhp it sounds like it’s only just as fast as the MR340 in real terms b roads and such like.
Reading a thread by John Banks, he said you don’t want any more than 400bhp it just becomes unusable and I can understand that. Even with PPP on a good day I feel that much more power and it would be daft, it’s when you’re really wringing it’s neck at you feel I need more.

Any feedback would be appreciated
Cheers Jon

RichardSimpson2004

Spend £200 on a 1.0 fiesta to drive during the week your current STi will feel like 400BHP

willy

Get in touch with Bob Rawle.. he modded a STi upto 380bhp quite easily and made it more drivable.


*****

compshack

LOL I drive a Vauxhall Signum CDTI sometimes and yes getting back into the STi does make it fell that much better

*****
I'm talking to Andy F at the moment, he's doing something along the same lines so see what happens

R.B

Full de-cat
Large induction (RCM) ?
Bigger injectors (650) ?
Uprated fuel pump
Gt Garret Turbo 9RCM) ?
Re-map Tek 3 Bob Rawle
NGK 7`S (Plugs)

You would be very close to 400 bhp but this will be more than 3k and the internals i feel would be at risk with anymore than 400 bhp

R.B

Dazza's-STi

M8 i think you'll find what you've asked is almost the same as many of us on here at some point... I aksed almost a blueprint of that question a few months back... and it was going around in my head for ages!

As it is i've gone for the full handling bit for now and will do the 380bhp later.. maybe toward the end of the warranty... Lets face it if you can afford the car then you can probably afford to fix it...
the thing is you have to stop thinking of the dealer fixing it if it pops as this will be a fortune... I firstly thought this and the cost doesn;t bear thinking about... now i've changed my mind and started thinking differently... if it breaks i'lll take it to a specialst... much cheaper and in real terms much more affordable to me... even most major things on the car would be managable with some thought regarding parts and labour...
So now my plan is handling for now ... Scooby Clinic doing the full springs Whitelines and drops makeover... and then when i'm bored it will be either a 2.5 bottom end or a redo of the internals and say 350-360 bhp... at around 5k... that should make me fells like its a new toy again...

hope this gives u some ideas..




Dazza

Dazza's-STi

top spec m8...

Q.. 17. Everything heat wrapped with 1200 degree thermal insulation + thermocool bandage...

whars that stuff... and where do you get it...?

Ta

Dazza

Ninnybobs

NyScooby,

Have you got a RR figure for that spec?

Martin

nyscooby

iTrader: (12)

So what if I've asked a question before, it is pertinent to the topic and I'm trying to help another user with information i might have.

I apologise if this is not to your liking.

Jon, i hope you benefit from other users experiences, at all levels of knowledge and experience.

The heat wrap is from RS comps, Superclad.

I have posted this information before as well.

And was also remaped by BR Developments.

compshack

Dazza, I'm sure like you say everybody has thought of what I'm contemplating at the moment, I feel the car is ok on the handling and more power would be a good thing. Also looked at the 2.5L route but I think 400bhp is attainable with the 2.0L. BTW Nice car, bet that turns a few heads when you drive by! It's bad enough with the just the plain car nevermind it all stickered up and all.

nyscooby, Yes I do read all other user's experiences and for a long time, after all information is power you can never get enough of that!
Are you happy with what you've got? Is the car more driveable with the extra power?

nyscooby

iTrader: (12)

Have not had it tested yet Martin, but due a clutch and flywheel change in next few weeks and would like a go after this.

It handles fine with the extra power, I've had some fast cars before, this one has its moments. When it bites it bites. Peaks at 1.65b and holds.

But feels soft in higher gears, reving/pushing from low revs, hence i'm changing the clutch. But of the mark not really a problem.

Looking to fit aquamist before the winter is done, ready for the spring/summer.

Would like a lightened propshaft, have the info for a 55% lighter version for the V7 STI, that should help the job along, but £800 for the shaft, will have to wit a few months.

Anyone ever fitted a lightened shaft? what results did it give?

P.Cole

R.B thats sounds good whats it drive like

R.B

Dont know Any idea mate

john banks

Don't worry too much about the handling at 400 BHP if you've sorted it all out and have smooth delivery, it should be a nice drive. In the slimy weather I've found mine very predictable so far over parts of two Scottish winters touch wood. Usually it is still in vacuum when it slides in the middle of slow bends or roundabouts, so it is very smooth to adjust, and a lot less scary than some FWD Peugeots, but I have my geometry and setup fairly benign for this reason. Sliding at high speed is obviously a different kettle of fish, but not something for the public road IMHO.

If I had an 04 STi I would either go 2.5 and bigger turbo, twin scroll turbo, or leave the original turbo in it and work around that. I hate turbo cars that don't have any action at 1/3 of their redline RPM and are not seriously in the power band in lower gears by 1/2 of it. The two most flexible setups I've ever had were a sorted TD04 on a 2.0, and 20G on 2.5. A sorted VF35 on a 2.0 with a higher rev limit (as STi) is also nice. In low gears or day to day driving where you don't want to make a scene with high revs, you can put a lot of road behind you where you would be waiting for a large turbo to spool up. Above 175 BHP/litre or 650 kg/litre I don't like what I've been in so far for a flexible road car, but others disagree.

compshack

Thanks for the reply John,
It's good to hear from people like you who have been there done it and back again for more.
What do you mean about a "sorted" turbo, I thought the MY04 STi already had a VF35 so by working round it how would you get the power up by 30%?
In your opinion are the standard internals strong enough for the increase in power?
Ball park figure, how much would it cost for the 2.5L upgrade? I think I saw Scooby clinic doing one for maybe £4.500 does that seem reasonable?

john banks

Breathing and boost control, sometimes port matching the turbo to the uppipe as well. In terms of power, you could fit headers, which will give a bit more lag, but more power at the same boost, or the same power at lower boost. I think the standard internals are strong enough for making the car relatively undriveable and laggy and need not be worried about too much, but that is my opinion. The costs easily get silly for small gains, loss of warranty.

The whole point is you are not going to get massive power increases without more lag whilst you stay at 2.0 or don't use a twin scroll turbo.

With what I know now, I wouldn't give up a warrantied 300 BHP with good and easy resale for anything less than 400 BHP with less lag than the 300 BHP version. To me that means a 2.5 transplant. Just my 2p. Once you've lived with a higher power, laggier, noisier car for a while and experienced the costs, it puts the odd 10-20% gain here or there into perspective.

So I would say, whole hog or not at all. Look for earlier 2.5 threads for costs, search in drivetrain.

These are just my opinions, others with high power 2.0s will be very happy.