Whiteline 22mm or 24mm ARB??
#1
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Whiteline 22mm or 24mm ARB??
Which shall i go for on a newage, mainly road use but a few track days thrown in??
Should i pay an extra £15 and go for the adjustable version??
Should i pay an extra £15 and go for the adjustable version??
#3
another vote for the adjustable - it gives you the choice to tweak for more or less stiffness if you have it fitted on the centre hole initially. I've got used to mine now but felt almost queasy the first time when I drove home from the Clinic with it on due to the extra g-forces I was pulling around corners
have a look here for an understandable explanation of the workings and some calculations...
Apple
have a look here for an understandable explanation of the workings and some calculations...
Apple
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Originally Posted by Apple
another vote for the adjustable - it gives you the choice to tweak for more or less stiffness if you have it fitted on the centre hole initially. I've got used to mine now but felt almost queasy the first time when I drove home from the Clinic with it on due to the extra g-forces I was pulling around corners
Apple
Apple
Agreed i found 3rd hole slightly too skitish. ARB works very well in conjuction with powerflex solid drop links
Tony
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Agree with Tony etc.
Get the adjustable and run it on the middle hole.
Try experimenting on track days with the 3rd hole if its dry or try 1st hole if it's wet.
Get the adjustable and run it on the middle hole.
Try experimenting on track days with the 3rd hole if its dry or try 1st hole if it's wet.
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Originally Posted by Edcase
Agree with Tony etc.
Get the adjustable and run it on the middle hole.
Try experimenting on track days with the 3rd hole if its dry or try 1st hole if it's wet.
Get the adjustable and run it on the middle hole.
Try experimenting on track days with the 3rd hole if its dry or try 1st hole if it's wet.
#7
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Originally Posted by austen_wrx
Cheers guys! Are you all refering to the 22mm adjustable ARB?? I was going to get the whiteline steel drop links, as demon tweeks can supply the lot (ARB and DL) for £104. Thoughts???
Thanks
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#9
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Whats the difference between 22 and 24 bars - apart from the obvious!
Why would you want a 22 or a 24?
Am I right in saying then that a good start on the suspension mods front is either 22 or 24 ARB plus steel rear drop links.
Then perhaps a trip to Powerstation for bumpsteer and alignment.
yes?
Why would you want a 22 or a 24?
Am I right in saying then that a good start on the suspension mods front is either 22 or 24 ARB plus steel rear drop links.
Then perhaps a trip to Powerstation for bumpsteer and alignment.
yes?
#10
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The difference is the obvious one - the diameter is greater. A thicker bar increases the bars rate and this will reduce body roll more. When the car leans away from a corner this twists the anti-roll bar. The thicker the bar is or the smaller the control arm is (in the case of the Whiteline adjustable one), then it won't twist as much thus helping to resist the body roll.
Like any suspension it's a balancing act. Whether you go for a 22 or 24 bar will depend on what other suspension mods you have and how you prefer the car to handle.
If you have too stiff a rear (oh, er) it can cause the car to be tail-happy. Too stiff a front end and it'll understeer more than usual.
Whiteline rear bar on middle setting works well with OE front (on a classic anyway). Drop links help reduce flex in the OE plastic ones but provide little improvement on their own. Again, most mods are cumulative.
Alignment is always a very good change, but again that depends on your own driving style and handling preferences.
If PowerStation are dialling in de-facto settings on all their customer cars, then any garage with a 4-wheel alignment machine could do the same.
Bumpsteer involves adjusting the front rack by adding some shims and will vary slightly from car-to-car.
If anyone has been to Powerstation, it would be interesting to see what the settings are and whether they are the same for a few cars.
Stefan
Like any suspension it's a balancing act. Whether you go for a 22 or 24 bar will depend on what other suspension mods you have and how you prefer the car to handle.
If you have too stiff a rear (oh, er) it can cause the car to be tail-happy. Too stiff a front end and it'll understeer more than usual.
Whiteline rear bar on middle setting works well with OE front (on a classic anyway). Drop links help reduce flex in the OE plastic ones but provide little improvement on their own. Again, most mods are cumulative.
Alignment is always a very good change, but again that depends on your own driving style and handling preferences.
If PowerStation are dialling in de-facto settings on all their customer cars, then any garage with a 4-wheel alignment machine could do the same.
Bumpsteer involves adjusting the front rack by adding some shims and will vary slightly from car-to-car.
If anyone has been to Powerstation, it would be interesting to see what the settings are and whether they are the same for a few cars.
Stefan
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