Help - front brakes discs for MY98
#1
Help - front brakes discs for MY98
My Scoob failed its MOT for having excessively worn front discs.
They say i have to replace discs and pads for it to pass.
They have quoted £169 for japanese made discs (?) and pads.
What should i do? I would ideally like to upgrade as well, but not sure what sort to look at.
Any assistance much appreciated.
They say i have to replace discs and pads for it to pass.
They have quoted £169 for japanese made discs (?) and pads.
What should i do? I would ideally like to upgrade as well, but not sure what sort to look at.
Any assistance much appreciated.
#3
Twatful
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Ring Alyn at http://www.asperformance.com/
or try here for a comprasion http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m10b0s546p0
http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m10b0s545p0
or try here for a comprasion http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m10b0s546p0
http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m10b0s545p0
#7
Thanks guys.
To upgrade the brakes I am thinking about going for Mintex discs and have heard that green stuff pads are good.
Any thoughts?
The brakes are crap on it at the moment, but i don't know whether that is because of their nackered condition and don't just want to get standard stuff if its going to be the same poor performance.
To upgrade the brakes I am thinking about going for Mintex discs and have heard that green stuff pads are good.
Any thoughts?
The brakes are crap on it at the moment, but i don't know whether that is because of their nackered condition and don't just want to get standard stuff if its going to be the same poor performance.
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#8
I've just put black diamond's all round on mine with braded hose, transformed the brakeing on my94 wrx. £350 not bad i thought seeing i can't afford £600+ for the big disk converions
#10
Put standard disks and ebc red stuff pads on mine not that long ago and just ordered new front end calipers, wouldnt say they are class but certainly do there job...or so I would hope!
#11
I have had a look at the Diamond Black discs and pads and they look pretty good.
Do the hoses need doing at the same time? - this is turning into a big, unplanned and expensive job.
Do the hoses need doing at the same time? - this is turning into a big, unplanned and expensive job.
#13
Thanks. I'll leave the hoses then.
Think i'll go for the diamond black discs. Can I beat £119.50 from scoobynet shop?
Then need to decide whether to go for red stuff pads/ diamond black or Mintex. What do you think?
Think i'll go for the diamond black discs. Can I beat £119.50 from scoobynet shop?
Then need to decide whether to go for red stuff pads/ diamond black or Mintex. What do you think?
#14
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I currently have upgraded discs, on my MY98, dba on the rear (drilled and grooved) and Black Diamond on the front (drilled and grooved).
Both are work great, and I only use standard pads.
However I didn;t think you could fail an MOT on brake disc thickness ? As long as they perform correctly and work OK.
If they were cracked perhaps, but for being too thin ? ? ? ? On my last car citroen ZX, I ran the front discs for 2 years after the garage had said "min thickness" blah blah and is never failed it's MOT......
Both are work great, and I only use standard pads.
However I didn;t think you could fail an MOT on brake disc thickness ? As long as they perform correctly and work OK.
If they were cracked perhaps, but for being too thin ? ? ? ? On my last car citroen ZX, I ran the front discs for 2 years after the garage had said "min thickness" blah blah and is never failed it's MOT......
#15
I know that's what i thought, and argued with them that point.
They showed me there "Guide to MOT's" which said they can fail if they are "cracked, or excessively worn".
I said i'd change them straight away but the guy wasn't having any of it.
They showed me there "Guide to MOT's" which said they can fail if they are "cracked, or excessively worn".
I said i'd change them straight away but the guy wasn't having any of it.
#18
Having tried Black Diamonds and Predator pads, then Redstuff, and previously EBC Turbogroove and Greenstuff, then Mintex, my preferred combination would be EBC disks and Redstuff pads by far. Talk to Andrew @ Camsport
Graham
Edited to say just seen MY. Change to 4-pot calipers first. More important than all the rest.
Graham
Edited to say just seen MY. Change to 4-pot calipers first. More important than all the rest.
Last edited by grahamfrary; 10 November 2004 at 10:32 PM.
#19
Sorry - didn't understand the last bit.
Are you saying i should change to 4-pot?
I'm pretty sure i have 2-pot and was intending on upgrading to the new discs (Black diamond) and pads (red stuff).
Are you saying i should change to 4-pot?
I'm pretty sure i have 2-pot and was intending on upgrading to the new discs (Black diamond) and pads (red stuff).
#20
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If your brakes are standard then you have 2 pot ventilated at the front, and 2 pot solid at the rear.
If fronts have been upgraded to 4 pots they will be alloy (but maybe have been painted) with subaru embosed on them
If fronts have been upgraded to 4 pots they will be alloy (but maybe have been painted) with subaru embosed on them
#22
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Originally Posted by Scratch
If your brakes are standard then you have 2 pot ventilated at the front, and 2 pot solid at the rear.
If fronts have been upgraded to 4 pots they will be alloy (but maybe have been painted) with subaru embosed on them
If fronts have been upgraded to 4 pots they will be alloy (but maybe have been painted) with subaru embosed on them
thought only the type r's had 2 pots on the rear due to the lack of abs????
stevie
#23
Black diamond combis and red stuff pads on order.
How easy are these to fit?
Pads I have done before, but discs will be a first for me.
Any guidance would be much appreciated.
Cheers for all your help guys.
Think i got quite a good deal on them aswell, but a bit concerned that the pads are the new ones (despite reassurance from the guy who sold them to me) - how will i know when they arrive?
How easy are these to fit?
Pads I have done before, but discs will be a first for me.
Any guidance would be much appreciated.
Cheers for all your help guys.
Think i got quite a good deal on them aswell, but a bit concerned that the pads are the new ones (despite reassurance from the guy who sold them to me) - how will i know when they arrive?
#25
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Piece of pi$$ to fit matey.
UNdo the two bolts that secure the caliper and lift it off. Drop the pads out, use a lever to push the pistons back in. Clean up the caliper as desired, slip in and secure the new pads (refit being reverse sequence to removal ) and then get an bolt to fit in the holes in the disc and screw it to draw it off. I think it's M8 but can't quite remember. Clean up the surface of the hub and put new disc on. Refit caliper, which may be a bit of a shove to get it over the new disc but this is normal, I find a few taps with the hammer normally sorts this (but I do mean taps, don't go mental you may damage the caliper) If in doubt, try pushing the pistons in again, then retry.
When pushing pistons back keep an eye on your brake fluid level in the reservoir, you don't want brake fluid all over the floor. You can of course open the bleed nipple to push the pistons back but then be careful not to get any air in.
The back is essentially the same for removing the caliper, but the drum handbrake is build into the disc and needs to be released to be able to get the drum/disc assembly off. There is a little oblong slot with a plug in it in the backplate, take it off and then turn the adjuster using a screwdriver to back off the handbrake. This is quite awkward if working on the ground with axle stands/jack etc. You should then be able to get the disc assembly off OK. Refit new one, refit caliper and remember to adjust the handbrake.
UNdo the two bolts that secure the caliper and lift it off. Drop the pads out, use a lever to push the pistons back in. Clean up the caliper as desired, slip in and secure the new pads (refit being reverse sequence to removal ) and then get an bolt to fit in the holes in the disc and screw it to draw it off. I think it's M8 but can't quite remember. Clean up the surface of the hub and put new disc on. Refit caliper, which may be a bit of a shove to get it over the new disc but this is normal, I find a few taps with the hammer normally sorts this (but I do mean taps, don't go mental you may damage the caliper) If in doubt, try pushing the pistons in again, then retry.
When pushing pistons back keep an eye on your brake fluid level in the reservoir, you don't want brake fluid all over the floor. You can of course open the bleed nipple to push the pistons back but then be careful not to get any air in.
The back is essentially the same for removing the caliper, but the drum handbrake is build into the disc and needs to be released to be able to get the drum/disc assembly off. There is a little oblong slot with a plug in it in the backplate, take it off and then turn the adjuster using a screwdriver to back off the handbrake. This is quite awkward if working on the ground with axle stands/jack etc. You should then be able to get the disc assembly off OK. Refit new one, refit caliper and remember to adjust the handbrake.
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