Track Day Preparation
25 October 2003, 08:44 PM
#1
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What preparation does a MY01 WRX need for a few track days other than a geometry set-up, some decent tyres and a set of decent pads?
My mate (STi7) recons I will need better engine cooling and brakes...is he right
My mate (STi7) recons I will need better engine cooling and brakes...is he right
25 October 2003, 08:55 PM
#2
1. Pre-Event checks
a. Make sure the car is in a well maintained condition.
b. Check ALL fluid levels.
c. Replace the brake fluid if not changed at service specified interval.
d. Check the condition/pressure of all your tyres, Make a note of the pressures.
e. Check your brake pads for condition/thickness, preferably put new fast road/comp pads such as Pagid Blue pads in, front and rear.
f. Remove any accessory's not securely fitted.
g. Check the speed rating of your tyres, make a note of this and never exceed it on track.
h. Remove any floor mats from the drivers footwell.
I. Remove the spare tyre if you have secure storage.
j. Take some basic tools with you, enough to change brake pads at least.
k. Take at least one axle stand for when you change the pads.
l. Take some rags/swarfega for cleaning your hands etc.
m. Fill up with SUL/Optimax even on standard spec engine, you wont get more performance, just gives the engine more protection from detination. If you run on SUL normally put 1% octane booster in for safety.
top
2. Spares etc to take
a. One set of brake pads at least, front and rear.
b. One 5 litre can of oil.
c. Some tape to cover your light lenses.
d. A helmet - you may be able to hire one on the day but check in advance
e. Some thin soled sports shoe's - aids with brake feel.
f. A tank of petrol - save you having to look around for the local decent petrol garage
top
3. Pre-track checks
a. Recheck your tyre pressures, if one is down you may have a slow puncture which could blow when at high speed.
b. Increase the tyre pressures by 4-6PSI higher than you run on the road - preserves the tyre wear.
c. Tape up your headlights.
d. Ensure you understood the driver briefing, if you are not sure about any aspect, ask for clarification. Ensure you understood the passing rules in particular!
top
4. First lap on every run
a. Never thrash the car on the first lap, speed up gradually bringing the oil/water temperatures to normal working parameters.
b. Gently bring the brake temperatures up to temperature.
c. Use the first few laps to get familiar with your new, rather alien surroundings.
d. Try and give yourself space front and rear, don't be tempted to follow the car in front too closely as you will be concentrating on him/her and not learning the track.
e. Get used to checking your mirror before and after each corner, you will be amazed how quickly some cars will catch you if you are a track novice.
top
5. Rest of laps
a. Bring up the speed gradually if you are a novice, you will learn and enjoy it a whole lot more.
b. Drive it to your limit, remember your there for fun!!!
c. If you experience brake fade/boiling don't think it will go away before the next corner, slow down, it is very likely to be worse the next time.
d. If you feel a power loss coming out of a tight bend back off, don't keep it planted, you are probably getting the first sign's of fuel surge, if you keep it planted you are risking detonation due to a week mixture. return to the pits and refuel. This can happen with half a tank of fuel on board, don't get fooled into thinking it can't be happening already, it can.
top
6. Last lap in
a. Do a slow last lap in.
b. Try to avoid using the brakes at all to give the disks/pads some chance to cool down.
c. Don't stop looking in your mirror, there might be someone still giving it large.
top
7. Entering the pits/stopping
a. Enter the pits slowly, look out for kids/spectators - it is easy to not hear you coming as the pits are a NOISY place.
b. DO NOT SWITCH OFF YOUR ENGINE.
c. Allow the engine to idle for at least 2 minutes.
d. DO NOT PUT THE HANDBRAKE ON OR SIT WITH YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE PEDAL.
e. The above is to stop the pads from being destroyed by the heat sink effect from your red hot brake disks, stop on a level surface or arrange for someone to chock you wheel.
f. Let everything cool before you do your post run checks.
top
8. Post run checks
a. Check the brake pads for wear, you will be amazed how quickly they are used up!!!
b. Check ALL fluid levels, You may never use oil on the road, you are almost guaranteed to do so on a track day run.
c. Check your tyre pressures, if one has dropped you may be on the way to a blow out.
d. Check the tyres for wear/cuts.
The above should hopefully give you some basic and useful tips to help you enjoy the day and most importantly both you and the car return home in one piece.
a. Make sure the car is in a well maintained condition.
b. Check ALL fluid levels.
c. Replace the brake fluid if not changed at service specified interval.
d. Check the condition/pressure of all your tyres, Make a note of the pressures.
e. Check your brake pads for condition/thickness, preferably put new fast road/comp pads such as Pagid Blue pads in, front and rear.
f. Remove any accessory's not securely fitted.
g. Check the speed rating of your tyres, make a note of this and never exceed it on track.
h. Remove any floor mats from the drivers footwell.
I. Remove the spare tyre if you have secure storage.
j. Take some basic tools with you, enough to change brake pads at least.
k. Take at least one axle stand for when you change the pads.
l. Take some rags/swarfega for cleaning your hands etc.
m. Fill up with SUL/Optimax even on standard spec engine, you wont get more performance, just gives the engine more protection from detination. If you run on SUL normally put 1% octane booster in for safety.
top
2. Spares etc to take
a. One set of brake pads at least, front and rear.
b. One 5 litre can of oil.
c. Some tape to cover your light lenses.
d. A helmet - you may be able to hire one on the day but check in advance
e. Some thin soled sports shoe's - aids with brake feel.
f. A tank of petrol - save you having to look around for the local decent petrol garage
top
3. Pre-track checks
a. Recheck your tyre pressures, if one is down you may have a slow puncture which could blow when at high speed.
b. Increase the tyre pressures by 4-6PSI higher than you run on the road - preserves the tyre wear.
c. Tape up your headlights.
d. Ensure you understood the driver briefing, if you are not sure about any aspect, ask for clarification. Ensure you understood the passing rules in particular!
top
4. First lap on every run
a. Never thrash the car on the first lap, speed up gradually bringing the oil/water temperatures to normal working parameters.
b. Gently bring the brake temperatures up to temperature.
c. Use the first few laps to get familiar with your new, rather alien surroundings.
d. Try and give yourself space front and rear, don't be tempted to follow the car in front too closely as you will be concentrating on him/her and not learning the track.
e. Get used to checking your mirror before and after each corner, you will be amazed how quickly some cars will catch you if you are a track novice.
top
5. Rest of laps
a. Bring up the speed gradually if you are a novice, you will learn and enjoy it a whole lot more.
b. Drive it to your limit, remember your there for fun!!!
c. If you experience brake fade/boiling don't think it will go away before the next corner, slow down, it is very likely to be worse the next time.
d. If you feel a power loss coming out of a tight bend back off, don't keep it planted, you are probably getting the first sign's of fuel surge, if you keep it planted you are risking detonation due to a week mixture. return to the pits and refuel. This can happen with half a tank of fuel on board, don't get fooled into thinking it can't be happening already, it can.
top
6. Last lap in
a. Do a slow last lap in.
b. Try to avoid using the brakes at all to give the disks/pads some chance to cool down.
c. Don't stop looking in your mirror, there might be someone still giving it large.
top
7. Entering the pits/stopping
a. Enter the pits slowly, look out for kids/spectators - it is easy to not hear you coming as the pits are a NOISY place.
b. DO NOT SWITCH OFF YOUR ENGINE.
c. Allow the engine to idle for at least 2 minutes.
d. DO NOT PUT THE HANDBRAKE ON OR SIT WITH YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE PEDAL.
e. The above is to stop the pads from being destroyed by the heat sink effect from your red hot brake disks, stop on a level surface or arrange for someone to chock you wheel.
f. Let everything cool before you do your post run checks.
top
8. Post run checks
a. Check the brake pads for wear, you will be amazed how quickly they are used up!!!
b. Check ALL fluid levels, You may never use oil on the road, you are almost guaranteed to do so on a track day run.
c. Check your tyre pressures, if one has dropped you may be on the way to a blow out.
d. Check the tyres for wear/cuts.
The above should hopefully give you some basic and useful tips to help you enjoy the day and most importantly both you and the car return home in one piece.
28 October 2003, 09:23 AM
#7
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I tracked a MY01 WRX many times and I can give you a few pointers specific to the car.
The standard pads can't take much hammering, mine crumbled.
The standard discs will warp quite quickly using uprated pads.
The standard tyres are ok as long as you get the pressures right.
Engine cooling never a a problem, just make sure you pop the bonnet when in the pits and leave it running without the handbrake on for at least 5 mins.
I opted to change discs & pads to the Pagid GrpN kit and it made a big difference over standard. I also fitted a full gauge kit to give me some indication of what was going on under the bonnet.
Si.
The standard pads can't take much hammering, mine crumbled.
The standard discs will warp quite quickly using uprated pads.
The standard tyres are ok as long as you get the pressures right.
Engine cooling never a a problem, just make sure you pop the bonnet when in the pits and leave it running without the handbrake on for at least 5 mins.
I opted to change discs & pads to the Pagid GrpN kit and it made a big difference over standard. I also fitted a full gauge kit to give me some indication of what was going on under the bonnet.
Si.
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