Optimax + OB - John Felstead et all Whats it all about then???
#1
Firstly may I say to John if he reads this post how sorry I was to read about your exploits on (22b board) Problems like that can cause even the most devoted scooby lover to despair. Thankfully they are now over
However after reading with great interest the post it raised a question??
1. Can you safely run an sti7 on optimax and an octane booster?
2. Is it worth it?
3. Only thinking for the odd occassion rather than all the time
4. Would SUL + OB be better than Optimax + OB?
comments would be appreciated I have 2 cans of Millers catching dust on the shelf since I read the post!!
Hawk
However after reading with great interest the post it raised a question??
1. Can you safely run an sti7 on optimax and an octane booster?
2. Is it worth it?
3. Only thinking for the odd occassion rather than all the time
4. Would SUL + OB be better than Optimax + OB?
comments would be appreciated I have 2 cans of Millers catching dust on the shelf since I read the post!!
Hawk
#2
If you've got a uk STI7 - its mapped to run on SUL as i understand - so the OB would be "insurance" - but hardly worth the expense IMHO.
Now if its an imported JDM STI7 - thats a different matter
Best thing to do if thats the case is get it re-mapped for UK SUL fuel (Ecutek etc). You should use OB until then - as the car is mapped for Jap fuel (100 ron) and may det if you use plain 97 ron SUL.
As to optimax vs SUL - i use optimax as do many others without problems.
Jza
Now if its an imported JDM STI7 - thats a different matter
Best thing to do if thats the case is get it re-mapped for UK SUL fuel (Ecutek etc). You should use OB until then - as the car is mapped for Jap fuel (100 ron) and may det if you use plain 97 ron SUL.
As to optimax vs SUL - i use optimax as do many others without problems.
Jza
#3
If UK Sti7 and non decatted, then just SUL or optimax.
If JDM or decatted STi7, then minimum SUL plus octane booster.
Ideal solution is Optimax, plus NF Race OB (least action on Knocklink, better power/torque, and it goes farther than Millers/ProBoost etc as you only need to add 60- 100 mil to every tankful, rather than a whole tin), plus knocklink, plus boost gauge, plus afr/lambda meter.Remap for ultimate reassurance.
One of the reasons that John's engine died was because, unbeknown to him his Knocklink had become disconnected so he had no warning that it was detting so badly, even worse if you have no knocklink at all and so have no idea that it's detting.
If JDM or decatted STi7, then minimum SUL plus octane booster.
Ideal solution is Optimax, plus NF Race OB (least action on Knocklink, better power/torque, and it goes farther than Millers/ProBoost etc as you only need to add 60- 100 mil to every tankful, rather than a whole tin), plus knocklink, plus boost gauge, plus afr/lambda meter.Remap for ultimate reassurance.
One of the reasons that John's engine died was because, unbeknown to him his Knocklink had become disconnected so he had no warning that it was detting so badly, even worse if you have no knocklink at all and so have no idea that it's detting.
#4
thanks for the replies I have no knocklink at all on my car ie its std (well sort of) he he
I realise also that johns ecu was screwing around also I was just wondering whether the Sti7's were less sensetive to optimax + OB than older ones.
I thought the ecu's in the sti7's were able to self learn to a certain degree?? or is that my imagination.
my car is a uk bound sti (flame suit on it isnt a type uk) but has been specced up to around 300hp before i took delivery in june 2002
hawk
I realise also that johns ecu was screwing around also I was just wondering whether the Sti7's were less sensetive to optimax + OB than older ones.
I thought the ecu's in the sti7's were able to self learn to a certain degree?? or is that my imagination.
my car is a uk bound sti (flame suit on it isnt a type uk) but has been specced up to around 300hp before i took delivery in june 2002
hawk
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