an answer to 3rd piston or not ?
07 August 2003, 09:52 PM
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Series To Parallel Fuel Delivery Modification
Ok, this is a fantastic modification that I can take zero credit for, other than turning the .pdf file into an HTML document. Many thanks to Adam Levy and William Knose (mcgyver and skywalker on the I-Club respectively) for documenting this modification and allowing me to convert it to HTML and place it here for all to use.
Parts Needed And Estimated Prices:
1. 6-7 feet of 7mm standard fuel line (100PSI or greater will be perfect) ($10.00)
2. 12 Hose clamps to fit fuel lines (Home Depot, Lowes or Orchard all have these) ($10.00)
3. Metal Fuel line adapter This is so you won’t have to cut the metal near the injectors, unless you want to ($15.00)
4. 1 Brass T fitting that have 5/16 th ’s barbed ends ($5.00)
5. 1 Brass T fitting that has 2 sides 5/16 th barbed ends and 1 side has a 1/4inch barbed end ($5.00)
6. 4 Feet of 4 mm vacuum hose. ($5.00)
7. Teflon Tape for piping ($4.00)
8. Some sort of spray to make sliding fuel tubing’s on easier ($4.00)
9. Some throw away cardboard, rags and paper towels ($0.00)
Total: $58.00
Tools Needed:
1. A metric wrench set including deep sockets and extenders for the sockets
2. A Flat Top and Phillips Head screwdriver
3. Pliers
4. Metal Tubing Cutters (something to cut a metal tube with a diameter of 1/8 th to
5/8 th )
Estimated Time:
1. Make sure that car has not run for a few hours to let the fuel pressure drop, or you can unplug the fuel connection to the fuel pump under the rear seat (passenger side) if you don’t have time to let it sit
2. Allow for about 4hours of work and the ability to go out and get more parts if needed
Reasons Behind The Modification:
1. Current system on the Impreza runs in series, mod will convert to parallel
2. No one injector will get less fuel then another one
3. The 3 rd chamber will not run lean as it always has in the past
4. Highly recommended mod for people building up a Turbo for their Impreza.
5. We think you get a little bit of Hp increase but we can not prove it
6. It’s cheap and fun
On with the show!
Pulling Off The Intake Manifold: Everything that is connected to the Intake Manifold from something else needs to be disconnected. Reference the pictures below for more help.
This is a picture of the Driver's Side Intake Manifold- 1 is a vacuum hose, 2 is a wire harness connecting right to the throttle body, 3 and 4 are the throttle cable, 5 is the vaccuum line to the brake booster, and 6-7-8 are the fuel lines that all need to come off. Make sure to put some rags underneath these lines because some fuel will come out of them. Also remember to pull the spark plug wires off the plugs.
This is the Passengers Side of the Intake Manifold- 1 is the wire harness to the Coil Pack, 2 is a ground that needs to come off, 3 is the engine breather hose that will need to be disconnected from the intake pipe, whether that is a stock intake or something else, 4 is a vacuum line that will need to be disconnected, 5 is a holding clip for the spark plug wires, 6-7-8 are bolts that hold the power steering lines in place. Also remember to pull the spark plug wires off the coil pack. Next you need to unscrew the bolts (8 total) that hold the Intake Manifold to the Engine Block and pull the plugs on the Fuel Injectors (4 total), see below:
This is what the Intake Manifold should like when you pull it out of the engine bay:
In this picture, you can see the underside of the intake manifold. Notice the three metal tubes going across the bottom? Soon none of them will be there! This picture also shows the FPR and notice the attachment from the fuel rail to the FPR. There are two things that can be done. First you can buy or make an adapter to fit stock fuel rails on to point number 1 or you can cut the rail at point number 2. I would prefer to keep the stock rail and just happened to have a Weapon R attachment. An attachment can be found, try looking at WeaponR’s website for more info.
This is the driver’s side of the Intake Manifold, and you will more than likely need to cut one part in order to remove the fuel lines underneath without doing any damage to them. You will want to cut right about in the middle of the metal tubing so that in the future you can put the stock fuel lines back in by patching this cut with a small piece of fuel hose. But who is going to do that? After you have cut that, you are going to want and get your fuel hosing, vaccuum hosing, teflon tape, and hose clamps out for the final part. You are going to want to start measuring how long each segment of the fuel hose is going to be by looking at the next figure for more info. Make sure to measure how long the stock fuel lines from the fuel filter are also- those brass T’s have to go in the right place.
This is the finished product- 1 is the FPR Weapon R adapter that was used (instead of rigging up something). If you do not have an adapter and don’t mind cutting your metal tubing a little more you will want to cut it at circle 5. 2 is where you can either fabricate a small metal tube to lead back to where the original line was or you can just use a longer vacuum hose. 3 and 4 are where you want to have your T’s lay. It seemed easier to have the brass T fittings on the driver's side, since there seemed to be more room over there for them to move around, and the fuel filter and return line are over there. Lastly, we placed the stock FPR over there too, as can be seen in the last picture. Make sure the T with the ¼ inch barbed end is used to connect the fuel hose to the FPR.
The short end of the FPR that came out of the fuel rail will attach to the fuel hose coming from underneath the intake manifold- the bottom piece will go to the stock fuel return line. The last part will be to reattach all of the vaccuum lines- use the new vaccuum tubing you have to do this so you can replace the old vacuum hosing that was used on the stock fuel setup.
Everything else should go on the way they came off except for the fuel lines, which should reach the stock fuel lines- refer to the beginning steps on how to put everything back together. Make sure to not over tighten the bolts that screw into the engine block- once the bolt is flush with the metal finish with ¼ to ½ turn. Check them after driving to make sure they are not falling out.
Standard Disclaimer: Modification of your car involves risks and may void your warranty. I can not be held responsible for the modifications you consciously decide to undertake nor for the results of doing so. copy and paste paragraphs below for web page with pictures.
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=www.ravensblade-impreza.com/modifications/drivetrain/fuelrail/4.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/modifications/drivetrain/fuelrail/fuelrail.html&h=480&w=640&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dimpreza%2Bengine%2Bbay%26svnum%3D10%2 6hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8%26sa%3DG
Ok, this is a fantastic modification that I can take zero credit for, other than turning the .pdf file into an HTML document. Many thanks to Adam Levy and William Knose (mcgyver and skywalker on the I-Club respectively) for documenting this modification and allowing me to convert it to HTML and place it here for all to use.
Parts Needed And Estimated Prices:
1. 6-7 feet of 7mm standard fuel line (100PSI or greater will be perfect) ($10.00)
2. 12 Hose clamps to fit fuel lines (Home Depot, Lowes or Orchard all have these) ($10.00)
3. Metal Fuel line adapter This is so you won’t have to cut the metal near the injectors, unless you want to ($15.00)
4. 1 Brass T fitting that have 5/16 th ’s barbed ends ($5.00)
5. 1 Brass T fitting that has 2 sides 5/16 th barbed ends and 1 side has a 1/4inch barbed end ($5.00)
6. 4 Feet of 4 mm vacuum hose. ($5.00)
7. Teflon Tape for piping ($4.00)
8. Some sort of spray to make sliding fuel tubing’s on easier ($4.00)
9. Some throw away cardboard, rags and paper towels ($0.00)
Total: $58.00
Tools Needed:
1. A metric wrench set including deep sockets and extenders for the sockets
2. A Flat Top and Phillips Head screwdriver
3. Pliers
4. Metal Tubing Cutters (something to cut a metal tube with a diameter of 1/8 th to
5/8 th )
Estimated Time:
1. Make sure that car has not run for a few hours to let the fuel pressure drop, or you can unplug the fuel connection to the fuel pump under the rear seat (passenger side) if you don’t have time to let it sit
2. Allow for about 4hours of work and the ability to go out and get more parts if needed
Reasons Behind The Modification:
1. Current system on the Impreza runs in series, mod will convert to parallel
2. No one injector will get less fuel then another one
3. The 3 rd chamber will not run lean as it always has in the past
4. Highly recommended mod for people building up a Turbo for their Impreza.
5. We think you get a little bit of Hp increase but we can not prove it
6. It’s cheap and fun
On with the show!
Pulling Off The Intake Manifold: Everything that is connected to the Intake Manifold from something else needs to be disconnected. Reference the pictures below for more help.
This is a picture of the Driver's Side Intake Manifold- 1 is a vacuum hose, 2 is a wire harness connecting right to the throttle body, 3 and 4 are the throttle cable, 5 is the vaccuum line to the brake booster, and 6-7-8 are the fuel lines that all need to come off. Make sure to put some rags underneath these lines because some fuel will come out of them. Also remember to pull the spark plug wires off the plugs.
This is the Passengers Side of the Intake Manifold- 1 is the wire harness to the Coil Pack, 2 is a ground that needs to come off, 3 is the engine breather hose that will need to be disconnected from the intake pipe, whether that is a stock intake or something else, 4 is a vacuum line that will need to be disconnected, 5 is a holding clip for the spark plug wires, 6-7-8 are bolts that hold the power steering lines in place. Also remember to pull the spark plug wires off the coil pack. Next you need to unscrew the bolts (8 total) that hold the Intake Manifold to the Engine Block and pull the plugs on the Fuel Injectors (4 total), see below:
This is what the Intake Manifold should like when you pull it out of the engine bay:
In this picture, you can see the underside of the intake manifold. Notice the three metal tubes going across the bottom? Soon none of them will be there! This picture also shows the FPR and notice the attachment from the fuel rail to the FPR. There are two things that can be done. First you can buy or make an adapter to fit stock fuel rails on to point number 1 or you can cut the rail at point number 2. I would prefer to keep the stock rail and just happened to have a Weapon R attachment. An attachment can be found, try looking at WeaponR’s website for more info.
This is the driver’s side of the Intake Manifold, and you will more than likely need to cut one part in order to remove the fuel lines underneath without doing any damage to them. You will want to cut right about in the middle of the metal tubing so that in the future you can put the stock fuel lines back in by patching this cut with a small piece of fuel hose. But who is going to do that? After you have cut that, you are going to want and get your fuel hosing, vaccuum hosing, teflon tape, and hose clamps out for the final part. You are going to want to start measuring how long each segment of the fuel hose is going to be by looking at the next figure for more info. Make sure to measure how long the stock fuel lines from the fuel filter are also- those brass T’s have to go in the right place.
This is the finished product- 1 is the FPR Weapon R adapter that was used (instead of rigging up something). If you do not have an adapter and don’t mind cutting your metal tubing a little more you will want to cut it at circle 5. 2 is where you can either fabricate a small metal tube to lead back to where the original line was or you can just use a longer vacuum hose. 3 and 4 are where you want to have your T’s lay. It seemed easier to have the brass T fittings on the driver's side, since there seemed to be more room over there for them to move around, and the fuel filter and return line are over there. Lastly, we placed the stock FPR over there too, as can be seen in the last picture. Make sure the T with the ¼ inch barbed end is used to connect the fuel hose to the FPR.
The short end of the FPR that came out of the fuel rail will attach to the fuel hose coming from underneath the intake manifold- the bottom piece will go to the stock fuel return line. The last part will be to reattach all of the vaccuum lines- use the new vaccuum tubing you have to do this so you can replace the old vacuum hosing that was used on the stock fuel setup.
Everything else should go on the way they came off except for the fuel lines, which should reach the stock fuel lines- refer to the beginning steps on how to put everything back together. Make sure to not over tighten the bolts that screw into the engine block- once the bolt is flush with the metal finish with ¼ to ½ turn. Check them after driving to make sure they are not falling out.
Standard Disclaimer: Modification of your car involves risks and may void your warranty. I can not be held responsible for the modifications you consciously decide to undertake nor for the results of doing so. copy and paste paragraphs below for web page with pictures.
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=www.ravensblade-impreza.com/modifications/drivetrain/fuelrail/4.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/modifications/drivetrain/fuelrail/fuelrail.html&h=480&w=640&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dimpreza%2Bengine%2Bbay%26svnum%3D10%2 6hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8%26sa%3DG
07 August 2003, 10:27 PM
#2
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Could've just posted a link! 
Whether it's a complete answer to the increased incidence of No. 3 failures versus the other pistons is difficult to say with certainty, as there are other issues (big end oiling, increased temperature due to proximity of turbo etc.) that probably contribute in some way or the other to this problem.
It certainly doesn't do any harm, let's put it that way!
Whether it's a complete answer to the increased incidence of No. 3 failures versus the other pistons is difficult to say with certainty, as there are other issues (big end oiling, increased temperature due to proximity of turbo etc.) that probably contribute in some way or the other to this problem.
It certainly doesn't do any harm, let's put it that way!
07 August 2003, 10:57 PM
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