FrazerS

Hi team,

I'm looking at buying my first Impreza. I have a couple of points that I'm hoping you seasoned pros can clarify for me. I'm also trying to choose between 2 cars, so I'd like to hear which you'd go for.

1. Option A is an 03 STI putting out 365bhp. Owner says he can prove that figure. He also says that the only performance mod is a remap. I assume that a remap alone can't achieve that power? I think there are some mods on there that he's not aware of...

2. Option A is on 125000 miles. I know it's a divisive question, but is that getting towards end of life for an EJ20 with that much power? Part service history (17 stamps, 11 from Subaru dealers), and it looks great cosmetically. Body-wise, some welding has been done, so that shouldn't be an issue again any time soon.

​​​​​​3. Here are the 2 I'm choosing between. Which do you think is best?

A. The one discussed above:
'03 STI type UK
Blue/gold
365bhp
Remap, coilovers
125000 miles
8k

B.
'05 STI type UK widetrack
Black
Unmodified
85000 miles
11k

Thanks for your help!

JdmSti2006

85k miles widetrack for me but if UK based both will have rust issues unless sloved
For 365 horses it will need few better parts than oem

Flat4x4-again

iTrader: (1)

Definitely B.

All cars are a risk, and A>B

deanb1980

I'd go option B, its a widetrack firstly and standard so you will know what will be done the option A has more than just a remap and with the current owner not knowing whats been done and by who so who knows what has ben donbe to achieve that power and what sort of quality of work its had either then theres the mileage

Vxr2010

Rust is the big question , the 2005 sti engine I take is the 2.5 , as it’s not been forged could be an issue, or is it already an issue ? , the 2 litre stronger engine but at that sort of miles that it could be getting to the end of its life , so reverting back to condition and rust , if the 2.5 is cleaner rust wise that’s what I would buy and have a budget for a possible engine rebuild , if the 2 litre one has already had rust repairs done it will return and how well was it repaired ? The rust that’s the worse is the outer rear arches inner arches and rear sills 👍

FrazerS

@Vxr2010 sorry, I should have clarified. They are both blobeyes, so both have the 2.0 engine.

Rust has apparently been sorted on option A, which I'm going to view tomorrow.

I'm viewing option B early Jan. No rust work has been done on it, and suspension components look rusty in the pics. Arches/sills look okay but I will inspect closely when I view it.

Can anyone give me a ballpark figure for sorting rusty bodywork on a blobeye? And a cost for new OEM-ish suspension? Or is that a 'how long is a piece of string' question?

Sounds like A is too much of a risk. Unknown mods and high mileage.

B isn't loads more expensive, better mileage, unmodified and a 2.0 widetrack which I gather is quite a sought after car. Just depends on rust.
​

JdmSti2006

4.5k pounds but most probably closer to 6k

FrazerS

Sweet lord jesus that's more than I hoped...

Vxr2010

It would be cheaper learning how to weld and buying the kit to do it , as above all about the rust or lack of it , be very through checking the rear arches inner and outer , and the rear sills , i only found the bad rust in my Fsti when I removed the side trim in the boot , could have been repaired but was going to be pricy so got broken in the end

Flat4x4-again

iTrader: (1)

For 'rust' I think you need to break it into 2 things:-

1) Body rust. Difficult to check sills with sills covers on. My classic is still 'rust-free' but I took the will covers off and the rear edges were starting to go. £250 a side to fix properly / professionally. Arches and repainting is where the costs would start to escalate.

2) Suspension. You can easily go on KYB's catalogue etc and price up shocks, springs and mounts for Subaru. What about front and rear subframe condition, suspension arms of various types that need sourcing or fully refurbishing ?

You can probably replace things gradually if the MOT search isn't showing nasties already, and get the bodywork sound first.

Bevwilks

Does anyone know what colour maf sensor I have? I have a wrx type ra 1996.. Help!!!!

BaileyPayner

the 2 litre stronger engine but at that sort of miles that it could be getting to the end of its life , so reverting back to condition and rust , if the 2.5 is cleaner rust wise that’s what I would buy and have a budget for a possible engine rebuild , if the 2 litre one has already had rust repairs done it will return and how well was it repaired ?

FrazerS

Thank you so much for all of your advice guys. I am now the proud owner of a black blobeye WRX STI!! I've had it for a couple of days and cannot believe how awesome it is. I'm over the moon.

To clear up some confusion, it's still a 2 liter, just an '05 one with the DCCD which makes it a little special.

The blue one was a decent car too, but you all mentioned rust being the deciding factor and it had quite a bit of it. Although it had been welded once before, it had an arch panel being held on with a well hidden self tapper, and lots of rust and water visible behind the wheel arch where the jack is kept in the boot. Whereas the black one (my one &#128513 has very minimal rust; so shouldn't be an issue for a few years.

Thanks again guys and I'm buzzing to have joined the Impreza gang 👍