Typerav5

Hi,so after much advice about heavy steering (thanks)I did say it did have many issues and next one is the coolant its looking bad,but no gunge or milky just looks really brown,I drove the car 140 miles motorway and ten miles local and boosted it 3 times on local roads and no change in engine temp,its does have that turbo flutter thing ,like chu chu chi,stu stu tu thing,it's got fmic too and after market air filter,drove fine all the way home,so question is what it is the best way of changing coolant,I want to do a full flush not just radiator flush because its not blowing hot air inside the car and i read its got something to do with air lock or with bad heater core which is dash out job.help needed please

albob

Alcazar has a good method to coolant change

check his post here - https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...-draining.html

Vxr2010

On the bottom of new age rads that I’ve had , is a little tap to let the coolant out , blowing cold air in the car can be signs of a hg failing , when you drive the car are you getting a constant flow of bubbles in the non pressured expansion tank on the radiator , a few bubbles and it stops is ok , constant bubbles often caused by hg leaking , so drain the coolant re fill by the pressured expansion tank that’s on top of the engine , once that and the rad cap is full then start the car and keep adding , there will be a lot of bubble movement and helps if the front of the car is facing slightly up hill , once the pressured tank on the engine is full then put cap back on , when car is fully cold the next day then caps off and top up , keep an eye on levels and make sure they are staying the same , brown in the coolant can be a result of over heating , which is why you want to keep an eye on things , if the non pressured tank on the rad keeps going up and when cold stays up it again can indicate hg issues , there maybe nothing wrong you will only know once coolant is changed and monitored , the rad cap and expansion tank caps can slowly fail and cause issues , 👍😁

Linksfahrer

By all means flush the system out (per Alcazar /albob) but once a lot of brown gunk has been in the system you never really know if its all out ?
I would throw in a new Radiator at £70 its not exactly a big cost and only takes a short time to fit check hoses replace clamp fittings
when you add the fresh coolant which is also the corrosion inhibitor.

Vxr2010

A normal hose pipe with the system still open both ends would get a lot of the stuff out , the rad not disagreeing with new but again you could take it off and give it a good flush 👍

Typerav5

Thanks for advice, new problem today, went to start it today and battery is completely dead,It hasn't been started since I parked it up last week,but alarm seems to go off without sound so I'm guessing it's a alarm draining the battery,it has some after market fob and keys n receipts for a falcon cat 1 alarm with remote starter, think that's the problem ,but what's the best way to remove it.thanks

Vxr2010

I’m thinking sort one issue at a time , do your coolant change to make sure the engines ok , change your power steering fluid , then icheck your turbo issue out, need to explain the turbo issue a bit more , next job the alarm , find a decent company to remove and replace with a cat 1 , im assuming car is secure as in locked and immobilised 👍

Linksfahrer

You will find that any alarm system will drain the battery.
Once your battery gets out of condition or towards the end of it’s lifetime the capacity falls away this capacity drops further as the environment temperature drops and therefore the time needed for the alarm system to deplete the battery to a level that no longer allows you start the car becomes very short.

I know my insurance requires that I have a cat 1 alarm, so if yours does then it has to stay.

If this is your situation too, then apart from replacing the battery earlier as it nears the end of life, pulling the alarm system out from under the dash is not my idea of a good weekend.

So what I do is disconnect it entirely, if I leave the car for a longer period, a battery isolator key is the best way to do this, and is in any case good safety upgrade. If you can keep your car locked in the garage then you are unlikely ever to loose it. The last and perhaps most elegant alternative is just to leave a battery trickle conditioner charger on the car.