Stratts77

Hi guys I have a Bugeye STI mint with 30k miles. I intend to keep the car long term and have. Plan to tune it.

I am still tooin and froing whether to tune with standard engine or just save extra and go 2.1 Stroker and Forged or just Forged for the longevity of the engine?

To get my standard engine to approx 360-380 BHP it will cost me approx £4000 including race headers, performance Cat, SC36 Turbo, Perrin Air intake, Walbro Fuel Pump and a Remap.

The question is do I save more and either Forge or 2.1 Stroker and Forged and aim at a quick 450-500bhp.

Has anybody done both and know the costs to do the Forged 2.1 Stroker including everything required such as uprated ECU, FMIC, Uprated Clutch etc.

I know the cost to get to the 360-380 BHP on standard block but not sure of the cost to go Forged 2.1, in order to allow me to compare. I only want to use top quality parts.

The quote from Scooby Clinic to reach 360-380 bhp included:

SC36 billet turbo £999.00
Perrin inlet pipe £187.99
Perrin cold air induction kit £156.00
Haywood and scott sports cat. £566.00
Uprated Fuel Pump fitted at £165.00
Uprated Plugs fitted at £120.00
3 Port EBCS33 £100.00 fitted.
Labour £550.00

Re map worse case £550.00

Gives us a total of £3393.99 + VAT = £4072.78 Deal price £4K.

The parts used seem quality parts which is what I want.

Has anybody got a complete cost for the 2.1 Stroker option with everything?

stonejedi

iTrader: (51)

Hello mate my advice would be to modify your existing car as the STI engine can take quite a lot of power with the right supporting mods as standard,only go into rebuilding 2.1etc...if the car needs it through engine wear head gasket etc... as frankly to build a engine right with supporting mods you can double that price that your have quoted+......especially with the miscellaneous parts that you will also require on top.SJ.

Turbovin

iTrader: (2)

15-25k £

Stratts77

Yeah I thinking the Bugeye has forged pistons so 360-380 BHP should be safe if we'll looked after.

I was just curious if the true cost for everything to compare.

👍👍

Stratts77

I was thinking around 10-15k
Wow it's seriously expensive then. 😬😬

stonejedi

iTrader: (51)

Will easily take 380 horses + once it has the right supporting mods and mapped to suit safely with regular oil and filter changes/maintenance etc...SJ.

Stratts77

Yes Kev was very helpful. He recommended the new SC 36 Turbo as it spools very quick. He said with the kids I listed it should get 360-380 BHP.

I then plan to spend money on the handling to support the power.

I am sure even 360 BHP will be a big difference to standard.

I am more curious about the price comparison between this level of tune and Forged or 2.1?

Just seems to get very very expensive to go Forged

I only want to do it to help with reliability really. I have been told the Bug has forged pistons. Not sure what else I require to Forge obviously the Crank.

My thinking is if I am going to spend 4k should I save a little extra to go Forged and more safe but it seems to get very very expensive. 👍👍

Tidgy

Most of the parts listed will be needed for a 2.1 build anyway or you'll just be limiting what you get, in fact only thing that will be a limitation on that list on a 2.1 would be the turbo.

short version is once you get to a certain point on a standard engine there is a big jump for very little (if any) gain in result vs price cos you need to do the engine itself, where that point is depends on who you ask and how experianced they are.

To put it into perspective i spent 8k to get 4bhp more, which sounds totlay daft untill you realise is gave me an engine that was capable of running a reliable 500bhp. Should also mention was found that the headgasket was on its way out so prob cost me more money in the long run, but thats a 2.5 for you lol

stonejedi

iTrader: (51)

As the saying goes “if its not broke Don’t try to fix it“.SJ.

Stratts77

Yes that's what I am talking about.
It's more about the fact I am keeping the car long term.
so other than the Turbo all the other parts would suit either. So you spent 8k building the engine or with supporting mods? 👍

johno01

I can’t recommend scoobyclinic enough mate, I’ve recently spent thousands there and the work is spot on. From engine up grades AND setting my car up for fast road use as I had coilovers fitted by them, can’t fault them,Kev is sound too.

Stratts77

I agree Kev was do helpful.

What power you running?

johno01

i went from standard on a blob widetrack to 340bhp, completely changed the car but I also had like 20 odd other things fitted, went from hating my piece of **** car to absolutely buzzing with it.

Turbovin

iTrader: (2)

It was just a guess based on what everything has cost me, and it sounds like you won't be doing much of the work yourself? Just the turbo for 450-500 bhp is at least £2000
Buying the forged engine is one thing but it's all the other needed parts which adds to the cost far more than one would think.

Stratts77

So from standard the 360-380 BHP will feel a lot quicker then?

How long you been tuned is the car still running good.

Harryr34

iTrader: (9)

I’d personally go for a SC42, I ran one on my blobeye STI and it was a very nice balance of power and response.

I ran the same stock engine with various turbos, ranging from 325-510bhp, it was very reliable, don’t be afraid to break the 400-50 mark if it is a well maintained example.

Stratts77

I think he recommended the SC36 for it's fast spool and it's capability to reach 380bhp.

He said after 400 BHP the top mount intercooler and standard ECU struggle.

I think the SC42 turbo is for over 400bhp.

Wow you run serious power on stock engine!!

Kev said the Bugeyes have Forged pistons not cast and are one of the best engines.

sti.dean

You could probaly do a basic drive in drive out 2.1 450bhp/420ftlb setup including turbo, fmic, basic supporting mods and new clutch for 13k but as said above a looked after standard internal sti motor should cope with 400bhp ok, unless your going to track it or thrash the life out of it constantly, which is unlikely as a everyday road car.
I would probally use the origional engine but go for a good quality 400bhp capable turbo which would need a set of larger injectors to add to your bill aswell. Should give you a reliable 380 to 400bhp and 350 to 360ftlb.

johno01

yes an awful lot quicker, car has only just been remapped like a couple months ago and still feels/sounds great.

Stratts77

It's crazy because took it out today and it feels pretty rapid now. Just a bit laggy but once boost kick in pulls strong.

If anything it seems to drop of a little in high revs.

Will the SC36 Turbo and tune make it boost harder and longer. I hope it will be less laggy as well that's why I think Kev from Scooby Clinic recommended the SC36 as it spools real quick.

How would you compare it from standard through the Rev range?

johno01

im not sure it will improve spool but it will certainly boost a lot harder and pin you in your seat. Kev knows what he is talking about so I’d take his advice tbh.

Henrik

iTrader: (5)

I think that the only realistic way to improve BOTH spool point and power at the same time would be an increase in displacement, or fit a twin scroll turbo (maybe).

The 2.1 would increase displacement a little, but there's also a 2.5 option (and 2.3, but that is serious money).

I'd personally sit down and reflect on why you want to increase the power. IMO spending 4k for an increase to potentially only 360 hp is crazy, especially when the standard turbo will get you 330-340hp anyway. The money might be better spent improving other aspects of the car, maybe?

hedgecutter

iTrader: (5)

^^^This. Rebuild the knackered 19 year old suspension first. Then the brakes. Then you will have the platform for whatever you want to do power wise. Until then, a remap ,decat/sports cat, and panel filter will give you enough to be getting on with as you get to know the car.

the shreksta

iTrader: (20)

i agree, my vf35 made 355bhp and 365ftlbs.

get a better exhaust on it - £500
decent panel filter - £50
colder plugs - £30
and maybe a fresh fuel pump - £100
then a remap - £350
should easily see around 350bhp with matching torque.

then see how you like it, in my opinion 350bhp wasnt enough for me in a newage,yes it was quick off the mark but felt flat later up the rev range. i then went to a 440bhp 2.5 and the difference was night and day, the torque from the 2.5 means no lag so it had power everywhere and pulled like a train.my current hawkeye is 354bhp with 400ftlbs and i still want more. i believe the sweet spot for a newage daily driver is between 420bhp-450bhp with matching torque.

remember that if you go for a rebuild you could sell your current engine for maybe £1500 ish then source a used block/heads for around £500 freeing up an extra £1000 plus the sale of your sti stuff as wrx fan boys go crazy for it

sti top mount £150
vf35 turbo £350
sti pinks - £125

my current 2.5 was built & mapped by scoobyclinic 3.5 years ago and runs faultless, never uses any oil/water and starts 1st time hot or cold. perhaps go with a closed deck 2.5 bottom end and strap some 2.0 heads to it that way you will clear up any lag issues you may be concerned about.

Stratts77

I think we was looking at approx 380bhp with the turbo.
I already plan to spend on the handling with new bushes and coil overs and Uprated break discs and pads.

I really wanted to just get a comparison cost to drive in and out with a 2.1 Stroker Forged or just Forged 2.0 to compare with my 4k spend.

​​​​​​13k was mentioned which is a big difference.

stonejedi

iTrader: (51)

It seems to me that you have not thought out exactly what you! want out of your car...you are getting quite a lot of advice from tuners In the game members with experience of modifying their own cars etc...You need to work out exactly what you want from your car!.If it was mine I would do all supporting mods anti lift,thicker roll bars, suspension if still on the originals,definitely brakes as the standard disc and pads are not really up to much...Really I think that Its hard asking these questions as we are all individuals and have different opinions as how we went about modifying are own cars...so listen to the information and realise in the end its down to you.One more thing that I will add though is that a lot of members join these forums read what others have done power wise,but in reality they can barely drive the O.E standard power properly in the first place,but they still want more power,Only upgrade the cars power when you feel the car is not quick enough for you anymore or in your opinion its starting to feel slower to you which In my case was the reason that I started increasing the power levels in my own car,don't modify for pub talk but for your own personal driving pleasure and experience or it could all end in tears....Whatever you decide to do I wish you all the best.SJ.

sti.dean

You are starting with a totaly standard car, so to do it all in one go is going to cost you a fortune. The 13k i mentioned earlier is for the bare essentials to do the job, once you start a build you tend to get carried away with I'll have better version of this a stronger version of that, hey we're on a spendathon whats another 2grand lets change the ecu aswell ! Before you know it your 13k will be 20k+. Most people on here have either bought their cars already modded or have owned them for years and built up the power over a long period of time untill the mods have finally overpowered the engine and broke it, at that point they only have a engine build to pay for because they've already changed everything else . Still spent a fortune but a bit easier to swallow spread out over many years.
you could try what most do get a decent exhaust system, filter and remap, see how you like it, if that gets boring fit a bigger turbo next year and so on until you get bored of it or reach your power goals.

MarkRF

Whatever you choose, another vote for scoobyclinic and kev.

As with shreksta, they built and mapped my Hawkeye. It runs the SC36 billet turbo and it’s wonderful, torque low down and holds well all the way. Running at 377 / 350 at last power run - was told going by AFR’s the car is barely breaking as sweat and the turbo will do 400, but for the sake of 23hp and bragging it’s 400 it would be risky to ruin what SC did with the car - it drives so well on the road. again, starts first time, never has any issues, hot or cold. It’s lovely.

Stratts77

Thats good info thank you👍
So the SC36 is good. Kev told me they scrapped the SC38 turbo because the new improved SC36 is so good and capable of 380bhp.
So on the road 360bhp will feel quick.👍👍

the shreksta

iTrader: (20)

i may stick an sc42 on mine but keep the torque pegged below 420ftlbs as my engine still has standard rods albeit with arp rod bolts.
mark at thwaites said he could map it conservatively and keep it around 400bhp/400 ftlbs...........i curse the previous owner for spending £7k on a rebuild but not uprating the rods.