REPOST WITH VIDEO!

So lately I’ve been having this issue where I’ll be driving and I’ll put the foot down but the car wont go anywhere.. it feels like it’s lagging/struggling.. to go.. feels like it’s either misfiring or spluttering.. and if I put the clutch in it will just stall... once the car stalls I have to wait about 10 minutes or so and it will start again.. I had a error code before and it was P0024 position camshaft censor.. so I took the car to the garage and they changed a censor for me but it’s not solved the issue..

I tired starting the car this morning and it started fine but once I tired to drive forward it started acting funny and then slowly stalled..

engine is not standard.. it’s a EJ22 engine fully forged!

if you anyone has questions about the car that may help solve the issue please ask!

any help would really be appreciated!

 

I’m trying to add a video but I can’t some how 😕😕

 

Stick it on Youtube and then just post the link.

 

that’s the video up! Thank you !!

 

any other codes on it , on a classic the maf used to cause these issues , if you start it with maf disconnected see if it makes a difference and also start it with maf connected and unplug maf with it running it normally stalls ,a maf does not show a cel , other thing is fuel pump ok and supplying enough fuel

 

Your dash is still showing a CEL - code??

 

P0024 suggest a plausibility error NOT a sensor fault.


Check:
Cambelt timing...one tooth out on crank or one of the cams will do this.
Check cam and crank pulley mark alignments

If anything untoward with either of the above, don’t assume the belt has slipped or positioned wrong (unless you just had it changed or belt is obviously damaged). You will also have to check the woodruff/keyways for damage as these can cause the same problem.

Would avoid driving the car until the above is checked...a loose crank pulley or knackered keyway could wreck your engine if the timing slips further.

After that then we’re looking at variable valve timing mechanism issues.

edit: Also oil pressure issues as the variable timing relies on good oil pressure, and I’ve assumed the engine has oil in it.


This is, of course assuming the car has a legit map on it and the mapper hasn’t hidden any underlying issues and disabled/erased any fueling/air fault logging to stop rogue check engine lights.


MAF disconnect is an old wives tail, please stop spreading this, it has no relevance on modern post-1998 Subarus. All that will do is log a MAF/air temp related code and your garage will then bill you for a new sensor next time you visit because you disconnected and reconnected it and its now stored a historic code.

 

That’s interesting about the possible cambelt issue , i know the tension can fail and be quite noisy when they do start to fail , as i found out with a new tensioner after a having a rebuilt engine , The maf disconnect worked on mine on an 05 car , it was faulty and therefore swapped out , even if modern mafs are less prone to failure , the battery disconnect and pump brake pedal also works as a ecu reset which i have used a few times to resolve issues

 

AVCS solenoid? Both mine went (at different times) giving similar issues - if this is a relatively new built engine then they will likely be more prone to gunking up as it runs in? You could try giving them a tap to see if it affects things.

 

Echo above - I had a rough idle and a P0024 code, replacing the AVCS solenoid solved my problem - but best to check cambelt etc as well!