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Rear ARB Mount Bolt Sheared Off - Need Some Advice

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Old May 28, 2016 | 08:32 PM
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From: JDM MY97 Type R - 2.1 Stroker
Default Rear ARB Mount Bolt Sheared Off - Need Some Advice

So today I started the install of the SuperPro ARB's, front and rear.

And also WhiteLine heavy duty ARB mounts.

Started with the rear.

All was good until I met a bolt holding the ARB mount to the chassis on the drivers side.

I managed to shear the bolt head off and its now stuck in the chassis! There is no stud protruding out to allow me to weld a nut on there, otherwise I would have done that!

Spent a few hours trying to remove it using various techniques, stud removers, drilling etc etc. Its not coming out.

So I think what I am going to have to do is cut a square out of the floor in the boot to allow access to the back of the stud, drill some bigger holes where the original bolts go and use larger nuts and bolts. Then weld a plate over the square I cut out.

I cant think of any other way unless any of you guys can think of something?
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Old May 28, 2016 | 09:02 PM
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This happened to me on one of them, I drilled a big enough hole next to it, drilled thread out, put a bolt and nut in (the hole I drilled was to get a tool in there to tighten bolt).
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Old May 28, 2016 | 09:25 PM
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You should be able to drill the stud out easy enough, just drill a small pilot hole through it first then use a bigger drill bit, if your careful you can gef it out without damaging the thread, then just run a tap through it and it should be ok.
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Old May 28, 2016 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by bustaMOVEs
This happened to me on one of them, I drilled a big enough hole next to it, drilled thread out, put a bolt and nut in (the hole I drilled was to get a tool in there to tighten bolt).
I did think about doing that, but was concerned that I might weaken the area where the mounts are located.

You have no issues with your mounts after doing this, no flexing or anything?

Originally Posted by gazzawrx
You should be able to drill the stud out easy enough, just drill a small pilot hole through it first then use a bigger drill bit, if your careful you can gef it out without damaging the thread, then just run a tap through it and it should be ok.
Did all of that, started with a small pilot hole, made a bigger hole and tried a stud remover, bolt would not move at all. Drilled hole bigger and got a chisel and tried to hammer it away from the threads, no joy and the bolt thats welded to the inside of the chassis has now moved position.

I think I will try bustaMOVEs solution, if that doesn't work, ill be getting the grinder out!
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Old May 29, 2016 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by DoZZa
I did think about doing that, but was concerned that I might weaken the area where the mounts are located.

You have no issues with your mounts after doing this, no flexing or anything?



Did all of that, started with a small pilot hole, made a bigger hole and tried a stud remover, bolt would not move at all. Drilled hole bigger and got a chisel and tried to hammer it away from the threads, no joy and the bolt thats welded to the inside of the chassis has now moved position.

I think I will try bustaMOVEs solution, if that doesn't work, ill be getting the grinder out!
Sounds like it's too late now you're going to have to get to the captive nut.

I would have given it a liberal dose of penetrating oil and left it for a day. Then a small pilot drills and stud extractor. Then if that didn't work put some heat into the captive nut and some cold spray onto the bolt.

With the nut hot rapidly cooling the studs should have cracked the corrosion enough to allow you to undo it
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Old May 29, 2016 | 08:45 AM
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can you do what busta said but from above ?
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Old May 29, 2016 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
Sounds like it's too late now you're going to have to get to the captive nut.

I would have given it a liberal dose of penetrating oil and left it for a day. Then a small pilot drills and stud extractor. Then if that didn't work put some heat into the captive nut and some cold spray onto the bolt.

With the nut hot rapidly cooling the studs should have cracked the corrosion enough to allow you to undo it
Hindsight is a wonderful thing! Access to this captive nut is not possible without either drilling a hole in to the chassis or cutting an access hole in the boot.

Originally Posted by JDM_Stig
can you do what busta said but from above ?
That's what I am thinking, just had another after a good night's sleep and I might be able to do all of this from the boot with a couple of well drilled holes !!
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Old May 29, 2016 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by DoZZa
Hindsight is a wonderful thing! Access to this captive nut is not possible without either drilling a hole in to the chassis or cutting an access hole in the boot.



That's what I am thinking, just had another after a good night's sleep and I might be able to do all of this from the boot with a couple of well drilled holes !!
Good luck!
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Old May 29, 2016 | 11:29 AM
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Yes no flex or weakening, it's perfect really, might look like a diy, but it's spot on.
I used a hole maker tool thingy that gets bigger more you drill..
Get the stud out first and then do a hole, the going through boot is a idea but I'd like to see how you get it spot on.
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Old May 29, 2016 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by bustaMOVEs
Yes no flex or weakening, it's perfect really, might look like a diy, but it's spot on.
I used a hole maker tool thingy that gets bigger more you drill..
Get the stud out first and then do a hole, the going through boot is a idea but I'd like to see how you get it spot on.
Loving the technical description there bustaMOVEs! It's a step drill I think you use?
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Old May 29, 2016 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bustaMOVEs
Yes no flex or weakening, it's perfect really, might look like a diy, but it's spot on.
I used a hole maker tool thingy that gets bigger more you drill..
Get the stud out first and then do a hole, the going through boot is a idea but I'd like to see how you get it spot on.
something like this, so you can get a decent socket and bar thru ?

http://www.diy.com/departments/ptx-h...prd?icamp=recs

you do need the arbour for this style of drill bit,

http://www.diy.com/departments/ptx-h...prd?icamp=recs
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Old May 29, 2016 | 11:39 AM
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Or drill and helicoil . .
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Old May 29, 2016 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JDM_Stig
something like this, so you can get a decent socket and bar thru ?

http://www.diy.com/departments/ptx-h...prd?icamp=recs

you do need the arbour for this style of drill bit,

http://www.diy.com/departments/ptx-h...prd?icamp=recs
BustaMOVEs was on about a step drill.

Dorian I have all that kind of stuff if you want to borrow it
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Old May 29, 2016 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
Loving the technical description there bustaMOVEs! It's a step drill I think you use?
Hahahaha, I have my own vocabulary lol.

I used a triangle shape drill bit with a point on end, (don't know what they called)

Edit, yes just googled and is a step drill bit http://www.cutwel.co.uk/hole-making/...FUwq0wodNmAJXw
The same tool I used for my bumper holes

Last edited by bustaMOVEs; May 29, 2016 at 12:02 PM.
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Old May 29, 2016 | 08:04 PM
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So mission accomplished!

Decided I would be better off cutting a small square out of the boot floor to gain access.

Luckily, the captive nut for the rear of the mount was visible via a hole that Subaru already put there, but hidden by the boot floor. Did have to widen it slightly to get a socket and extension in there though.

Used the mighty Dremel to cut the boot floor, amazing little tool really, first time I have used it for anything heavy duty. Went through three cutting discs before managing the get the square cut nicely though!

Then used a drill to make a series of holes above the nut on the front of the mount. Used the Dremel again to finish off the hole.

Then drilled new holes through the captive nuts and tapped them for an M10 bolt. Put the bolts in and put some nuts on for good measure. Its nice and secure and not going anywhere!

In fact, part of me wanted do the same to the other side as I was a bit doubtful about the small M8 bolt that hold the factory ARB mount in place. Time will tell if they will hold, if not, I know how to sort it now!

But thats not the end of the story!

I am actually very lucky to be alive, seriously.

So the car was up on axle stands, the rear only. All wheels were on except for the passenger rear. I was under the car and hear someone say "excuse me". So I swore under my breath as I was at a critical point of putting a bolt in, then moved from under the car to see how it was. Only to see a DPD delivery guy come walking towards the car. He slipped on something and went flying into the front of the car which knocked it off its axle stands!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!

Made some nasty noises and I though the worst. DPD guy was in a state of shock, the box he was carrying was quite heavy and I think that put him off balance when he slipped and tried to recover, he didn't really stand much of a chance and ended up face planting my bonnet!

No damage to the bodywork of the car luckily. In fact, after all of that, the only damage was to the very bottom of the brake disc shield on the rear passenger side. But that was easily sorted with the help of a pair of long nosed pliers. Side skirts did come away from the car on the passenger side, but this was only the clips holding it in place that came away, all snapped back into place and only a small scratch underneath where the axle stand came to rest.

So I think to myself, had the DPD guy not called out, would he had slipped anyway, and the car fallen on me! I know these cars are not heavy, but still heavy enough to have crushed me to death!

After all of that, I put everything back together and took the car for a test drive. All I can say is all of the bother, including nearly getting squashed by my own car, was worth it. Car much more planted and confident in the bends. Only had the time to do the rear this weekend what with all of the bother with doing the rear. Will do the front next weekend and will hopefully be as happy as I am now.
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Old May 29, 2016 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
BustaMOVEs was on about a step drill.

Dorian I have all that kind of stuff if you want to borrow it
Thanks for the offer mate, I managed to get it all sorted!
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Old May 29, 2016 | 09:48 PM
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Lol, that was a bit funny to read but also good job he got your attention to get you out from there. Pheww.
Adding arbs and solid links makes a whole world of a difference, well planted on rd and quite responsive with less lean.
Do the front then balance up the rear to medium setting, as i put mine on hardest and with car being dccd it was too easy to get back end out, setting rear to medium makes it better.
Im using 23f/25r perrin bars
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Old May 29, 2016 | 10:08 PM
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I'm laughing about it now, could have been a whole different story though! I knew another chip shop owner who died due to his stretched limo falling off the axle stands while he was under it!

I reckon if the front was on stands also, it wouldn't of fell off. Just ordered some wheel chocks off Amazon to add more saftey the next time. Need new stands too as they are now warped!

I fitted SuperPro 24mm rear, 22mm to go on front next weekend. Added CDF alloy drop links at the same time. I set the rear ARB to the middle hole. Seems like a good setting.
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Old May 29, 2016 | 10:09 PM
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Dozza you should have picture documented your progress & resolve / sure a lot of guys would have respected that for future ref - on a down side cutting floor isn't ideal but you showed as a last resolve all is not lost lol
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Old May 30, 2016 | 12:24 PM
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Mine did this bud it was the bolt above the fuel filler pipe!

I removed the fuel filler pipe drilled out the broken boot retapped the thread job done all in my back in my garage with no electricity it was so fun ha ha
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Old May 30, 2016 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jazzyjembreaze
Dozza you should have picture documented your progress & resolve / sure a lot of guys would have respected that for future ref - on a down side cutting floor isn't ideal but you showed as a last resolve all is not lost lol
Was thinking the same; I have to tackle this on mine, and would love to see where these holes are - any pics Dozza?
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Old Jun 3, 2016 | 10:56 PM
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Ill get some pics sorted this weekend chaps
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Old Jun 4, 2016 | 07:15 AM
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Much appreciated cheers mate
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