stefjw

Hi guys

So I've not long finished completely rebuilding/repainting my Type R, spent an absolute fortune, replaced so many parts and put a ridiculous amount of man hours into it. Only have a terrible camera phone picture to hand atm



Anyway, the heaters have stopped blowing hot air, top hose is roasting, bottom ones cold, you know the story I'm sure

Looking for advice and input as to what should be my next step. Obviously the easiest and cheapest option is to just repair the current engine, assuming there's no crazy damage once removed and inspected.

So what's my other options ?

I've already owned the car for 6 years and have no plans to ever sell

I'd like an everyday 400-450 bhp. If I'm going for a full build I'd like it to be bulletproof, if I choose to do a track day I want to be able to drive it correctly without needing to worry about the engine giving up.

My mechanic has suggested buying a new age bottom end, fitting my heads, along with an up rated turbo and possibly a new age topmount which should see me at around 400, with all the other bits and bobs that go along with it

Any help much appreciated

Thanks

TypeR99

iTrader: (2)

next step should be bleeding the system properly and removing the airlocks

TypeR99

iTrader: (2)

failing that, 2.1 or 2.5 forged block, md321t or mamba gt3076 turbo, 6 speed, 740cc injectors, front mount, FPR, decent ecu, decent radiator, induction kit + mafless will see your 400-450

TypeR99

iTrader: (2)

and if its getting track use, oil cooler and baffled sump

JGlanzaV

iTrader: (3)

The standard radiator is more than up to the job. So I don't get the "devent" radiator comments

stefjw

The systems just been bled

Developed a coolant leak yesterday which turned out to be the coolant pipe to the turbo. Fixed it, drained and bled the system but no joy

stefjw

Just had a brand new radiator fitted at the rebuild, already have a fpr. Is all that not a bit overkill for 400 bhp ?

Another reason I'd like around 400bhp is so I can stay with a tmic and the 5 speed box, I realise I'd be pushing it at that but I'd really rather not get a 6 speed. It just wouldn't be a type r without the 5

TypeR99

iTrader: (2)

You're about to find out that the engineering, fuelling, transmission etc required to run 400+ in a type r isnt just a case of strapping a turbo on and job done. Standard top mount is out of puff at around 360bhp, so you either need to moderate your expectations or revise your budget etc.

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

Exactly what my mechanic said so my Version 4 Type R now has
Newage bottom end (a new one)
Newage TMIC
Original heads
RCM modified oil pump iirc 10mm
New water pump
New modine
RCM 11mm head studs
New cambelt kit
RCM headgaskets
New gaskets/seals wherever required
New radiator
New sump
New hose kit (samco)
MDX555-400 Turbo
Flowmatched Phase 2 yellow injectors (Lateral Performance)
6 Speed DCCD gearbox (trust it still feel like a Type R with it )

Now some of the stuff I bought was because I could afford it not because it was necessary

The car has not been mapped to the fullest (only running 1.2bar at the moment...1.6 bar to come) So I have no power graphs/figures to show.

Total cost approx. £6500

stefjw

Thanks for the input




Looking at this list, stage 3, I have a few of the parts already.

I'm missing a custom ecu, turbo, new age topmount and injectors

And obviously a running engine haha


Thanks for that, was that including labour ?

I'm assuming I'd save around 1500 without the 6 speed, if I needed it at some point then so be it

I've also just replaced the sump, water pump and I've only covered 100ish miles with my new cam belt kit if that can be reused ?

Steve Whitehorn

iTrader: (13)

OK. The five speed has a better feel than the six speed, agreed.
Torque kills boxes
I know of a very few over the years that have run 360 -380hp through a late TY754 VN or VB 5 speed and it has held up (what the associated torque was with that hp I do not know)
So if you want to run a 5 speed 320 hp and its associated torque is the place to be.
Over spec for that, over engineer and it will be reliable.
My car is built for 600ish.. actually perhaps the heads would run out of puff before you get to that figure. However I run it at somewhere below 500 and that what keeps it reliable on the track.

Or look at it like this. What is the lowest spec mission critical part? and map with a safety margin of what that component will deliver.

New age bottom end with your heads is the cheapest way to that power. But perhaps detune it a touch

And as one of few that talks sense on here says earlier.....the OEM rad is not the lightest, but it is a very good bit of kit for the money and will do the job on a high power car.

Steve Whitehorn

iTrader: (13)

Will the heads be skimmed?
Who will do the machine work on them?
Is it going to be tracked or a road car?
Best off getting injectors off the shelf that flow the right amount. People tend to focus on flow, which is the first prerequisite. Over and above that it is about spray pattern. Look into how effectively an injector sprays ect .....dipping out now

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

Yes that was including labour
6 speed DCCD box is normally £2000+ but I did get mine for £1500 so lucky there.
Should have mentioned I already had a remappable ecu but that was fitted before I bought the car,in that Stage 3 ignore the Power FC as there are far better ecus out there now.
I can't see why the cambelt kit wouldn't be reused.

TypeR99

iTrader: (2)

Your initial post said 400-450.

Trying to pin the power down to a specific 400 isnt easy, you only need one component to not be up to the job and you'll fall well short.

I run a 99 type r that I've spent 18 months putting together. A forged 2.5, 6 speed uk non dccd, 740cc injectors, 255 pump, alcatek ecu, rcm induction kit, newage coilpack conversion, 3" cobrasport system, hdi front mount kit and a hybrid fp green turbo sees me at 387bhp on vpower, 418 on meth mix. I have ported standard headers and these are whats holding it back, with gt spec/rcm it should make 400 on vpower, 430ish meth.

The turbo was built from a box of bits, if I'd gone with a proven turbo (md321t, gt3071r, rcm450) I could have made the power easier.

Running a tmic is pointless at this sort of power, the classic bonnet scoop and undertray isnt that effective even if you fit a newage sti tmic. The more you limit the build with parts that arent up to the job the more you'll need from other components, hence why I'm down on power.

Andy Forrests advice is very good on his page BUT its also very old. Apexi ecu is as much use as a gameboy and the mdx555 has be superseded by several better, proven turbos.

Myblackwrx is about spot on with his budget. You could fit a 6 speed hawk dccd box and diff for about 2k and sell the 5 speed dccd box/diff for £700-800, making the 6 speed a decent value upgrade. The rest you'll need to budget around 3-4k for (if you're doing the work yourself) BUT dont overlook things like brakes/suspension. You'll soon expose all the weak spots in the car at that power. That figure doesnt include whatever engine you decide to go for, but as said, STI V7 block and bolt your heads on is the way to go, budget around £1500 and DONT reuse the cambelt. You can use the idlers/tensioner but renew the belt for less than £50

stefjw

Hmmm

All food for thought

The original plan was to do the engine last. I did want to refresh the underside of the car first and replace things like the anti roll bars with white line goodies but this situation might force my hand

Brakes have been badly needed for a while, I really dislike the standard ones, they suck.

My mechanic has a full set of brembos and new age hubs for the rear with my name on it

Been quoted around 1200 to remove my engine, rebuild and skim the heads, replace the gaskets and fit uprated studs, which would allow me to do all the other jobs I wanted to do in the meantime. Assuming there's no damage once inspected

Should have mentioned that I already have equal length headers gutted with a full 3.5" exhaust aswell

TypeR99

iTrader: (2)

running the power you want on whats basically a standard open deck sti engine is asking for trouble. Get a v7 sti short block and swap your heads/inlet over. Will cost little more but you'll have peace of mind that it has the strength

stefjw

I meant that if I chose to just rebuild what I have it'd be staying as is, probably running around 300 in a good day

I suposse another option would be to fit the new age bottom end with my heads and run that at pretty much standard power until I've done all the other jobs that I'd like

Honestly, cars will be the death of me. Why can't I be into something cheap like hookers

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

You do know that you can't bleed a Subaru system and they are easy to airlock if not filled properly?
Where did you fill the system up? Header tank by any chance?

AS Performance

iTrader: (4)

sounds potentially more like a jammed Thermostat??

stefjw

No I didn't know that

I never refilled it my mechanic did who's a subaru specialist.

I think I seen them filling it via one of the pipes and then top the last of it up via the header tank with a watercan with a tube attached ?

That's what I suggested

We're going to try that but they said unlikely

At motorway speeds the needle drops from half way to around a quarter and fluctuates quite frantically until I slow to around 50mph. Which is why I suggested it

boosted

I've filled my coolant system at least 6 times after having the engine/rad out. Probably more like 10 times. I always fill the radiator first, then just top up the header tank. Never had a problem. As the car sits it doesnt even have turbo cooling pipes

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

I think some people just fill via the header tank which can push air into the system.
The usual way to fill is via the turbo pipe which will push any air upward out of the header tank.
I'm sure other methods work ok as boosted says but the backfill through turbo pipe seems the most common and works well.

boosted

I fill through the radiator as this fills the engine and heater matrix directly. Essentially by filling via the rear of the cylinder head (which is where that turbo coolant pipe goes) your doing the same thing, in a more difficult way.
Ask yourself, why would Subaru put two rad caps on the cooling system?

TypeR99

iTrader: (2)

they dont, classics didnt come with a rad cap. Filling via the rad means you're attempting to get cold coolant past a cold thermostat until the rad is so full that it makes its way down the top hose and back feeds across the crossover pipe. Turbo pipe or header tank are the recommended methods.

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

^^^this
No radiator cap on my car,just the one on the header tank.

boosted

evolution boys...
on another note I have a forged 2.0l for sale in the for sale section, lovely engine with only 11,000 miles on it since rebuild.