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Advice on building forged 2.5

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Old 06 June 2015, 07:18 PM
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Little Dave
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Default Advice on building forged 2.5

As above I've heard that they have there problems can anyone advice me on what needs to be done to make it good and last and who can do it

Thanks Dave
Old 06 June 2015, 07:25 PM
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banny sti
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Alyn As perfomance with his closed deck inserts for the 2.5 block, would be my choice
Old 06 June 2015, 07:48 PM
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Benji554
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It depends what sort of power you want to run and your budget. If you are going much above 400 Bhp then yes the closed deck inserts are a good idea. If you aren't going over 400 then probably unnecessary. Do your homework and don't rush into it.
Old 06 June 2015, 07:56 PM
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Little Dave
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To be honest I want it to be the best I can get I would want at least 500 from it I have a 2.0 at the min running 500 so it would need to be a step

It will be used for track mainly
Old 06 June 2015, 09:32 PM
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Hawkeye D
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Speak to Rick or Len at Subaru 4 You in Newbury Berkshire. They'll sort you out.
Old 07 June 2015, 12:01 AM
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TypeR99
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If you want the best then the only place to go is Paul Finch Motorsport

Mods may as well lock the thread now. The end.
Old 07 June 2015, 06:13 AM
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Little Dave
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I do want to build as much of this engine as I can
I would be interested if the above can do the liners for me and I can build the rest
Old 07 June 2015, 08:57 AM
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Alan Jeffery
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Originally Posted by Little Dave
As above I've heard that they have there problems can anyone advice me on what needs to be done to make it good and last and who can do it

Thanks Dave
I would suggest going 2.35 with an EJ22 block if you can. It's the ultimate Impreza engine and no worries about weak blocks. If it's a track car the small amount of extra torque from a 2.5 won't be missed anyway.
We've built loads of them, all running well years later.
Other than that, a 2.1 stroker will give you the numbers anyway with the right turbo.
Old 07 June 2015, 09:28 AM
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ditchmyster
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Originally Posted by TypeR99
If you want the best then the only place to go is Paul Finch Motorsport

Mods may as well lock the thread now. The end.
He won't be too keen on building a 2.5L for track use and neither would I.

2.0L or 2.1 in a CDB or if money is no problem then 2.35L with EJ22 as above, 2.5L is a roll of the dice for a track car especially if you're actually going to kick it's head in for 20/30 mins at a time, over and over again. It can be done but why would you give yourself the stress and expense and always be watching the temp gauge, when there are much better proven solutions out there that will cost the same or less.

2.5L makes a good road car up to about 450/460bhp where it's not going to be seeing a prolonged hammering, but if it's going to live on the red line I personally wouldn't risk it, it's too much money to throw at it and then there's the risk of ending up doing it twice, 2.35L will cost about the same by the time you've done all the block work.

2.1L and spend the extra on the heads, cams and ancillaries would be my choice, I'd sooner have all the bells and whistles than numbers on a track car.
Old 07 June 2015, 11:00 AM
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Steve Whitehorn
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Originally Posted by ditchmyster
He won't be too keen on building a 2.5L for track use and neither would I.

2.0L or 2.1 in a CDB or if money is no problem then 2.35L with EJ22 as above, 2.5L is a roll of the dice for a track car especially if you're actually going to kick it's head in for 20/30 mins at a time, over and over again. It can be done but why would you give yourself the stress and expense and always be watching the temp gauge, when there are much better proven solutions out there that will cost the same or less.

2.5L makes a good road car up to about 450/460bhp where it's not going to be seeing a prolonged hammering, but if it's going to live on the red line I personally wouldn't risk it, it's too much money to throw at it and then there's the risk of ending up doing it twice, 2.35L will cost about the same by the time you've done all the block work.

2.1L and spend the extra on the heads, cams and ancillaries would be my choice, I'd sooner have all the bells and whistles than numbers on a track car.
Agree
Old 07 June 2015, 11:41 AM
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pretty much as above, 2.5 for road, 2.1 for track
Old 07 June 2015, 01:31 PM
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Maz
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Originally Posted by ditchmyster
He won't be too keen on building a 2.5L for track use and neither would I.

2.0L or 2.1 in a CDB or if money is no problem then 2.35L with EJ22 as above, 2.5L is a roll of the dice for a track car especially if you're actually going to kick it's head in for 20/30 mins at a time, over and over again. It can be done but why would you give yourself the stress and expense and always be watching the temp gauge, when there are much better proven solutions out there that will cost the same or less.

2.5L makes a good road car up to about 450/460bhp where it's not going to be seeing a prolonged hammering, but if it's going to live on the red line I personally wouldn't risk it, it's too much money to throw at it and then there's the risk of ending up doing it twice, 2.35L will cost about the same by the time you've done all the block work.

2.1L and spend the extra on the heads, cams and ancillaries would be my choice, I'd sooner have all the bells and whistles than numbers on a track car.
As above. Pretty much nail on head.
Old 07 June 2015, 08:30 PM
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Thank you guys your making me see sense
Really it would make more sense to build myself a 2.1 bottom end and bolt it to what I all ready have

That way it's a nice revie car with a bit more power I would love a 2.35 but finding a block isn't very easy the last one up forsale I missed out on due to a family issue meaning I had to use it in better ways (dam children)
Anyways I will look into 2.1
Old 09 June 2015, 01:51 PM
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corno
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What would be the cost of rebuilding a 2.5 forged vs a 2.35 out of curiosity? Say they both had similar power with whatever turbo was needed. With the engine being able to take a good hammering at the redline comfortably on track
Old 09 June 2015, 04:45 PM
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The main difference is the block (EJ22T) for a 2.35 build will be around £1200, that's before any machining or prep work.
Old 09 June 2015, 05:06 PM
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Alan Jeffery
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The fact is that getting it right first time is cheaper than having to go back and do it again.
For track use a closed deck block is the starting point for me, given the option!
Old 09 June 2015, 06:07 PM
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I know people suggest to use a closed deck block all the time but isn't the semi closed deck fine for upto 600bhp? on a 2.1? As that would save you maching work and trying to find a closed deck aswel?
Old 09 June 2015, 06:25 PM
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Tidgy
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depends what you wanna use it for. I have been poindering over the 2.1cdb or 2.5odb for the past month or so and was gonna go down the route of 2.1 cdb but begs the questions of do you really need 600bhp on the road?

I've now changed to 2.5, the low down grunt for use on the road just can't. Given mine is going in a type R with short ratios its gonna go pretty well lol

This was my old wrx on low boost.

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As your planning track then 2.1 CDB is by far the best option though
Old 09 June 2015, 11:06 PM
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corno
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Originally Posted by Alan Jeffery
The fact is that getting it right first time is cheaper than having to go back and do it again.
For track use a closed deck block is the starting point for me, given the option!
Interesting - I only ask as my 2.5 is drinking a lot of oil and I'm debating what my options are!
Old 09 June 2015, 11:09 PM
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Tidgy
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Originally Posted by corno
Interesting - I only ask as my 2.5 is drinking a lot of oil and I'm debating what my options are!
Standard 2.5? How much is alot?
Old 09 June 2015, 11:11 PM
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The 2.1 is a great engine on the road, makes a decent amount more torque than the 2.0, spools turbo's sooner and loves to rev.
Old 09 June 2015, 11:12 PM
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corno
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Originally Posted by Tidgy
Standard 2.5? How much is alot?
Standard map, secondary air pump removed, cosworth gaskets, head re skimmed, rcm low temp thermostat, Secondary cat removed and a k&n, but still on standard Pistons.. If I've worked this out right, it's using about .5L every 500 miles or so!!
Old 09 June 2015, 11:17 PM
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Tidgy
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Who built it? Surprised they would put standard pistons back in.

How many miles has it done since rebuild? 1L per 1000 miles is bordering on a serious problem.
Old 10 June 2015, 12:53 PM
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corno
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Originally Posted by Tidgy
Who built it? Surprised they would put standard pistons back in.

How many miles has it done since rebuild? 1L per 1000 miles is bordering on a serious problem.
Previous owner had it done by some company up north that build rally engines for a living. To be honest I've not kept track of how much it uses but now I will, when I only do about 500 miles a month it shouldn't need topping up every other week...
Old 10 June 2015, 01:02 PM
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Tidgy
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Originally Posted by corno
Previous owner had it done by some company up north that build rally engines for a living. To be honest I've not kept track of how much it uses but now I will, when I only do about 500 miles a month it shouldn't need topping up every other week...
Shouldn't do in an ideal world, 2.5's can use a bit of oil but 1L per 1000 miles i pretty high for sure.

My old forged 2.5 used no oil at all in 12k miles i did in it, had 4 oil changes in that time (2 running in, 2 normal service) but never used any.

Keep an eye on it and see what its doing, heavy oil use can be a sign of busting a ring land.

Compression and leak down test might be worth doing and then go from there
Old 10 June 2015, 01:15 PM
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corno
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Originally Posted by Tidgy
Shouldn't do in an ideal world, 2.5's can use a bit of oil but 1L per 1000 miles i pretty high for sure.

My old forged 2.5 used no oil at all in 12k miles i did in it, had 4 oil changes in that time (2 running in, 2 normal service) but never used any.

Keep an eye on it and see what its doing, heavy oil use can be a sign of busting a ring land.

Compression and leak down test might be worth doing and then go from there
Mines not forged yet so that's probably why! Ha. I've done a compression check and off the top of my head it was 130psi all round with no more than 7psi difference which is ok. Bit of a general low figure mind. It's due a service now so I'll get them to do a leak down test and give me the inevitable news.. Sorry for jacking your post OP!
Old 10 June 2015, 02:02 PM
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Tidgy
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see how you go, some engines use more than others.
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