Advice on building forged 2.5
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Advice on building forged 2.5
As above I've heard that they have there problems can anyone advice me on what needs to be done to make it good and last and who can do it
Thanks Dave
Thanks Dave
#3
It depends what sort of power you want to run and your budget. If you are going much above 400 Bhp then yes the closed deck inserts are a good idea. If you aren't going over 400 then probably unnecessary. Do your homework and don't rush into it.
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To be honest I want it to be the best I can get I would want at least 500 from it I have a 2.0 at the min running 500 so it would need to be a step
It will be used for track mainly
It will be used for track mainly
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We've built loads of them, all running well years later.
Other than that, a 2.1 stroker will give you the numbers anyway with the right turbo.
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2.0L or 2.1 in a CDB or if money is no problem then 2.35L with EJ22 as above, 2.5L is a roll of the dice for a track car especially if you're actually going to kick it's head in for 20/30 mins at a time, over and over again. It can be done but why would you give yourself the stress and expense and always be watching the temp gauge, when there are much better proven solutions out there that will cost the same or less.
2.5L makes a good road car up to about 450/460bhp where it's not going to be seeing a prolonged hammering, but if it's going to live on the red line I personally wouldn't risk it, it's too much money to throw at it and then there's the risk of ending up doing it twice, 2.35L will cost about the same by the time you've done all the block work.
2.1L and spend the extra on the heads, cams and ancillaries would be my choice, I'd sooner have all the bells and whistles than numbers on a track car.
#10
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He won't be too keen on building a 2.5L for track use and neither would I.
2.0L or 2.1 in a CDB or if money is no problem then 2.35L with EJ22 as above, 2.5L is a roll of the dice for a track car especially if you're actually going to kick it's head in for 20/30 mins at a time, over and over again. It can be done but why would you give yourself the stress and expense and always be watching the temp gauge, when there are much better proven solutions out there that will cost the same or less.
2.5L makes a good road car up to about 450/460bhp where it's not going to be seeing a prolonged hammering, but if it's going to live on the red line I personally wouldn't risk it, it's too much money to throw at it and then there's the risk of ending up doing it twice, 2.35L will cost about the same by the time you've done all the block work.
2.1L and spend the extra on the heads, cams and ancillaries would be my choice, I'd sooner have all the bells and whistles than numbers on a track car.
2.0L or 2.1 in a CDB or if money is no problem then 2.35L with EJ22 as above, 2.5L is a roll of the dice for a track car especially if you're actually going to kick it's head in for 20/30 mins at a time, over and over again. It can be done but why would you give yourself the stress and expense and always be watching the temp gauge, when there are much better proven solutions out there that will cost the same or less.
2.5L makes a good road car up to about 450/460bhp where it's not going to be seeing a prolonged hammering, but if it's going to live on the red line I personally wouldn't risk it, it's too much money to throw at it and then there's the risk of ending up doing it twice, 2.35L will cost about the same by the time you've done all the block work.
2.1L and spend the extra on the heads, cams and ancillaries would be my choice, I'd sooner have all the bells and whistles than numbers on a track car.
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He won't be too keen on building a 2.5L for track use and neither would I.
2.0L or 2.1 in a CDB or if money is no problem then 2.35L with EJ22 as above, 2.5L is a roll of the dice for a track car especially if you're actually going to kick it's head in for 20/30 mins at a time, over and over again. It can be done but why would you give yourself the stress and expense and always be watching the temp gauge, when there are much better proven solutions out there that will cost the same or less.
2.5L makes a good road car up to about 450/460bhp where it's not going to be seeing a prolonged hammering, but if it's going to live on the red line I personally wouldn't risk it, it's too much money to throw at it and then there's the risk of ending up doing it twice, 2.35L will cost about the same by the time you've done all the block work.
2.1L and spend the extra on the heads, cams and ancillaries would be my choice, I'd sooner have all the bells and whistles than numbers on a track car.
2.0L or 2.1 in a CDB or if money is no problem then 2.35L with EJ22 as above, 2.5L is a roll of the dice for a track car especially if you're actually going to kick it's head in for 20/30 mins at a time, over and over again. It can be done but why would you give yourself the stress and expense and always be watching the temp gauge, when there are much better proven solutions out there that will cost the same or less.
2.5L makes a good road car up to about 450/460bhp where it's not going to be seeing a prolonged hammering, but if it's going to live on the red line I personally wouldn't risk it, it's too much money to throw at it and then there's the risk of ending up doing it twice, 2.35L will cost about the same by the time you've done all the block work.
2.1L and spend the extra on the heads, cams and ancillaries would be my choice, I'd sooner have all the bells and whistles than numbers on a track car.
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Thank you guys your making me see sense
Really it would make more sense to build myself a 2.1 bottom end and bolt it to what I all ready have
That way it's a nice revie car with a bit more power I would love a 2.35 but finding a block isn't very easy the last one up forsale I missed out on due to a family issue meaning I had to use it in better ways (dam children)
Anyways I will look into 2.1
Really it would make more sense to build myself a 2.1 bottom end and bolt it to what I all ready have
That way it's a nice revie car with a bit more power I would love a 2.35 but finding a block isn't very easy the last one up forsale I missed out on due to a family issue meaning I had to use it in better ways (dam children)
Anyways I will look into 2.1
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What would be the cost of rebuilding a 2.5 forged vs a 2.35 out of curiosity? Say they both had similar power with whatever turbo was needed. With the engine being able to take a good hammering at the redline comfortably on track
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The fact is that getting it right first time is cheaper than having to go back and do it again.
For track use a closed deck block is the starting point for me, given the option!
For track use a closed deck block is the starting point for me, given the option!
#18
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depends what you wanna use it for. I have been poindering over the 2.1cdb or 2.5odb for the past month or so and was gonna go down the route of 2.1 cdb but begs the questions of do you really need 600bhp on the road?
I've now changed to 2.5, the low down grunt for use on the road just can't. Given mine is going in a type R with short ratios its gonna go pretty well lol
This was my old wrx on low boost.
As your planning track then 2.1 CDB is by far the best option though
I've now changed to 2.5, the low down grunt for use on the road just can't. Given mine is going in a type R with short ratios its gonna go pretty well lol
This was my old wrx on low boost.
As your planning track then 2.1 CDB is by far the best option though
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Interesting - I only ask as my 2.5 is drinking a lot of oil and I'm debating what my options are!
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Standard map, secondary air pump removed, cosworth gaskets, head re skimmed, rcm low temp thermostat, Secondary cat removed and a k&n, but still on standard Pistons.. If I've worked this out right, it's using about .5L every 500 miles or so!!
#23
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Who built it? Surprised they would put standard pistons back in.
How many miles has it done since rebuild? 1L per 1000 miles is bordering on a serious problem.
How many miles has it done since rebuild? 1L per 1000 miles is bordering on a serious problem.
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Previous owner had it done by some company up north that build rally engines for a living. To be honest I've not kept track of how much it uses but now I will, when I only do about 500 miles a month it shouldn't need topping up every other week...
#25
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My old forged 2.5 used no oil at all in 12k miles i did in it, had 4 oil changes in that time (2 running in, 2 normal service) but never used any.
Keep an eye on it and see what its doing, heavy oil use can be a sign of busting a ring land.
Compression and leak down test might be worth doing and then go from there
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Shouldn't do in an ideal world, 2.5's can use a bit of oil but 1L per 1000 miles i pretty high for sure.
My old forged 2.5 used no oil at all in 12k miles i did in it, had 4 oil changes in that time (2 running in, 2 normal service) but never used any.
Keep an eye on it and see what its doing, heavy oil use can be a sign of busting a ring land.
Compression and leak down test might be worth doing and then go from there
My old forged 2.5 used no oil at all in 12k miles i did in it, had 4 oil changes in that time (2 running in, 2 normal service) but never used any.
Keep an eye on it and see what its doing, heavy oil use can be a sign of busting a ring land.
Compression and leak down test might be worth doing and then go from there
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