Tommys88

Hi guys, I have a very poorly uk 2000. I am wondering what my best options would be for replacement. I have a td05 20g, full decat, FMIC, warlbro, simtek Ecu, 600cc injectors. Fuel pressure regulator etc so will be looking (I think) at 350-400hp.
I will be looking at doing a 6 speed conversion as well as brakes and full suspension replacement.
Also a friend of mine seems to think that I have sti heads based on the cross markings on them, is this the case or can I only tell by opening them up and looking for solid shims?
Any info/suggestions etc would be greatly appreciated!

XDevil666

For what your going/planning to spend is it not worth breaking the 2000 and then looking buying something newer?

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

Remove the good bits and weigh it in.

Tommys88

Must admit it has crossed my mind, only picked the bloody thing up last week as a replacement for my blob sti, which was sold to release house funds, with fixing it it will cost about the same as I sold that for!!

XDevil666

lol I think you will be right on that one!

Sorry to hear your bad luck mate, on the plus side of a new engine at least you will know it ain't gonna break that quickly as buying another random car!

But it is kind of dead money I guess, depends how long you plan to keep it for

Tommys88

How much do we think it'd be for a decent block, seen a few in the for sale sections but face same risks again. Been offered a rebuilt sti bottom end for 1200 but not heard any reviews on the company (cca developments). The way I see it is either strip and scrap or throw 3-4k at it (hopefully) and have a well sorted 400ish hp toy... Undecided. If I did that I would keep it and add as I go on

Tommys88

Bodywork is brilliant to be fair, but it should be when bottom end is dying and I spent £3,100

XDevil666

Speak to AP or Scoobyclinic mate, one things for sure you want the job doing right, maybe cheaper from random people but look at some of the horror story's on here

I have no doubt you have received pm's from people on here offering you all sorts (I got a few when I thought mine had gone)

Tommys88

Not yet, but been on Facebook pages and its rife, api are pricing up a 2.1 striker but i think it may destroy my budget, also can't be entirely certain I do have correct heads so also may need adding.
Would be interesting to get a ball park figure of what I can break it for. Have a great she'll, pff7's with new goodyears. Bolt in roll cage, as well as the power mods listed above. Just bottom end, one front caliper and 2 rear shocks that are knackered

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

sorry mate but I can't help but laugh at that last line, sounds fooked to me, so you paid £3k for a turbo 2000 shell.

I think the best you can do is buy a replacement engine, but to be brutally honest I would just cut my losses as by the time you've done what needs doing you could be in a sorted type R for less.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

If it were me, and I'm sure people will disagree, I'd go for the super cheap option.
When I had engine problems I bought a complete WRX engine for less than £200 from here. I fitted it myself back in June and it's fine.
Sure it could go pop next week but it's not going to bankrupt me.
Whilst abusing a cheap engine start looking at blocks, piston kits, rods etc and start putting some cash aside for a forged build when money is a bit more stable.

joe v3sti

iTrader: (8)

Barton up Humber eh, I have a full v2 Sti Ra bottom end sat here, complete with closed deck block. Out of my 52,000mile Ra. In York Pm me

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Or you could buy a sti7/8 bottom end and v1/2 or 3/4 sti heads. Easily cope with your power requirments.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Then you'd get into the realms of skimming, new HG's and headbolts etc.

thenewgalaxy

Sounds like a money pit.

Make it more of one by dropping a newage twinscroll and six speed box in. That'd go well!

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

And, it would be worth while and have a strong reliable motor.

joe v3sti

iTrader: (8)

That's true, cheapish way of going decent power

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

True, but you know how it goes, for an extra £??? I could do x/y/z.

How much for a newage bottom end? £500? Heads for V3/4 are going to be £2-300. Stripping of heads? Skim = £60, rebuild with new seals and relapped and the ****-ache of shimming. You'd want to go ARP so upwards of £100 and headgaskets again way above £100.

All on a second hand bottom end.

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

All the above is standard practice if putting together, a screwdriver won't skim it ya know

Have you seen many broken sti 7/8 bottom ends?

RS_Matt

Keep hold , Billy is banner go pop one day.

joe v3sti

iTrader: (8)

Billy is banner?

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

The price of doing this isn't just the price of the bottom end and heads, and once all done especially if the chap is more likely to pay labour as well on things like removal and refitting the engine you getting into mega bucks, and you'd have to factor in a remap. By that point you're getting into the price range engine tuner would probably quote for a forged build, roll in and roll out.

For all this "just whack a newage bottom end to older heads" I've yet to see anyone actually do it.

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Wtf are you on about? Mega bucks???
It's the cheapest and best way of getting reliable power. (Well in a classic crappy engine anyway)
About 1k for the engine and dressing, ecu (which the op has simtek) if not you're having to buy ecu anyway. Let's say £600 labour (unless you get charged rcm tax)

How much is ET going to charge to forge your car? £4k? Most likely.

And I'm doing it. And it's not going to cost they way you're thinking.

gazzawrx

iTrader: (11)

Or you could buy a complete newage sti engine for about £1200-1500 and have the simtek wired and mapped to suit the avcs.

Infected by sti

iTrader: (6)

Paul finch had a fully rebuilt forged 2.0 not so long back, was priced at £1700 all done if any good.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

If it's the cheapest and best way, then point me in the direction of the abundance of people that have already done this.
Break down this £1k as well, I'd like to see your price estimations.
£600 in your estimation for labour plus what £2-300 plus Vat for a remap so at the very least £2k, on a second hand engine.
I'd say wiring up the avcs on the long block is a far better shout.
I'm not sure if you've ever done this before but I think you've vastly under estimated your budget.

Good luck though, let us know the final cost.

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Wouldn't the sti long block require full loom and ecu? More work and costs?

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

I'm not sure. I thought it could be adapted to suit the AVCS, I think banny did it on his black type r so he'd be better to ask. As long as it's less than say £500 then it'd work out cheaper than sticking a block to a set of heads.

I stick to my original comment though of a cheap temporary engine.

joe v3sti

iTrader: (8)

I'm pretty sure banny ran a Syvecs, which is the top boy for the avcs stuff.
You can adapt an Alcatek to run it. It requires the ecu sending back to the manufacturer and modifying. Then you need to either splice the avcs loom into yours, or get something like the Jt innovations loom conversion.
It was something I considered at one point, in reality I wouldn't do it unless going north of 500bhp and running a large turbo. Don't get me wrong it's worth it no matter what power level, but I just couldn't justify it on a smaller turbo. As for cost, it would be a lot easier to stick to non avcs heads

Joe

the shreksta

iTrader: (20)

Or just run the long engine without wiring in the avcs heads - the avcs just won't work that's all.

Sti 8 long engine would be my choice for around 1200 quid.good for 450bhp aswell