low ratio big power gearbox options.......
#1
low ratio big power gearbox options.......
So I own an early STI RA, and one of the best things about the RA's is the super close ratio box. I know as well as anyone the limitations of these early boxes (I've broken a few...lol) so with my plans I will need to think of an alternative.
The eventual plan is to head north of 400 but I really don't want to lose the DCCD or super close gearing.
What are my options ??
Did the newage RA boxes have very close ratio's ??
How often do they come up as I imagine they are fairly sought after ?
The eventual plan is to head north of 400 but I really don't want to lose the DCCD or super close gearing.
What are my options ??
Did the newage RA boxes have very close ratio's ??
How often do they come up as I imagine they are fairly sought after ?
#2
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Closest you will get is a jdm 6 speed, 70 in 6th is 3200 revs.
https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-par...onversion.html
https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-par...onversion.html
Last edited by banny sti; 30 June 2014 at 09:49 AM.
#3
Closest you will get is a jdm 6 speed, 70 in 6th is 3200 revs.
https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-par...onversion.html
https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-par...onversion.html
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#6
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Closest you will get is a jdm 6 speed, 70 in 6th is 3200 revs.
https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-par...onversion.html
https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-par...onversion.html
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#14
At the price I wouldnt personally but maybe what you're looking for Matty...
https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-par...g-gearbox.html
https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-par...g-gearbox.html
What about having my current box hardened some how, if that's even possible.
#16
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Matty I was in the very same position, mine is also a v2 Sti Ra, these have the shortest ratios of the lot! I love mine but due to the power hike I had to look for other options. At the time the car was only going to be used on the road so PPG wasn't an option due to the fact that its far too noisy. So I was for a jdm 6speed. This seemed the best compromise.
If you have the original 3.9 r160 rear diff. You don't need a full conversion as you can utilise the current rear diff, shafts and hubs that you have.
There for you would only need a gearbox and propshaft making it rather cost effective. Also if you keep your rear diff it is a proper plated one.
Joe
If you have the original 3.9 r160 rear diff. You don't need a full conversion as you can utilise the current rear diff, shafts and hubs that you have.
There for you would only need a gearbox and propshaft making it rather cost effective. Also if you keep your rear diff it is a proper plated one.
Joe
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Yes
My box spec is
- PPG 1-4 dog kit, straight cut gears.
- OE helical 5th gear
- Billet selector forks
- Cusco RS 1.5-way LSD
- Modena centre diff with straight-cut billet drop gears
- Ratios: 3.18 / 1.87 / 1.32 / 0.95 / std
- 4.44 final drive
My box spec is
- PPG 1-4 dog kit, straight cut gears.
- OE helical 5th gear
- Billet selector forks
- Cusco RS 1.5-way LSD
- Modena centre diff with straight-cut billet drop gears
- Ratios: 3.18 / 1.87 / 1.32 / 0.95 / std
- 4.44 final drive
#24
I'm doing the car in two stages.
First stage is to get it where I want it with regard to condition, braking and handling. I'll drop this STI 8 motor in along with my fresh heads and run the car for a while. I'm almost there now, Tim is coming over this weekend to finish up so within a month or so it shall be road going again.
Stage two is to rebuild the original CDB to a decent 2.1 spec and see where it takes me.
But who knows, I may enjoy it enough at circa 320 and leave it there. I'll still rebuild the original motor and drop it in but only because I really want the car to have the same block it left the factory with.
#26
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I know I know ditch, had that conversation with myself many times
I'm doing the car in two stages.
First stage is to get it where I want it with regard to condition, braking and handling. I'll drop this STI 8 motor in along with my fresh heads and run the car for a while. I'm almost there now, Tim is coming over this weekend to finish up so within a month or so it shall be road going again.
Stage two is to rebuild the original CDB to a decent 2.1 spec and see where it takes me.
But who knows, I may enjoy it enough at circa 320 and leave it there. I'll still rebuild the original motor and drop it in but only because I really want the car to have the same block it left the factory with.
I'm doing the car in two stages.
First stage is to get it where I want it with regard to condition, braking and handling. I'll drop this STI 8 motor in along with my fresh heads and run the car for a while. I'm almost there now, Tim is coming over this weekend to finish up so within a month or so it shall be road going again.
Stage two is to rebuild the original CDB to a decent 2.1 spec and see where it takes me.
But who knows, I may enjoy it enough at circa 320 and leave it there. I'll still rebuild the original motor and drop it in but only because I really want the car to have the same block it left the factory with.
My advice would be keep the wheels small, not too much bracing ie roll bars and bushing and just enjoy the wayward handling, otherwise they become way too fast and planted for the road and you lose the fun factor. I don't care if mine is not the fastest thing on the road because i'm not racing, even on track I just let everyone go find some space and enjoy, strangely enough they then end up holding me up.
One thing I have noticed of late is the guys that have been there and done that all seem to be coming back to normal ish power levels, don't forget these cars are about the twisty bits.
#27
I have seen plenty of PPG kits break thats for sure, id go for a 6 speed all day long, they have pretty short ratios as it is and are a damn site cheaper if you dont need the rear diff and hubs etc
#29
JDM '04 6 speed fitted to my P1 has the following ratios.
As it has a fair bit of power (560+) these feel very short in practice. Great for track/twisty bits, not so good for long distance cruising, but then that's not what this car is all about.
I had a TY754 box in mine (initially the standard P1 box and centre diff and then I swapped the centre diff for a Dccd one, but kept the box itself) for many thousands of miles (circa 12K) at 450bhp/ 380ftlb and it was fine, but I don't do drag stuff or hard launches. I'm more about fast road and track.
As it has a fair bit of power (560+) these feel very short in practice. Great for track/twisty bits, not so good for long distance cruising, but then that's not what this car is all about.
I had a TY754 box in mine (initially the standard P1 box and centre diff and then I swapped the centre diff for a Dccd one, but kept the box itself) for many thousands of miles (circa 12K) at 450bhp/ 380ftlb and it was fine, but I don't do drag stuff or hard launches. I'm more about fast road and track.
#30
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I had a TY754 box in mine (initially the standard P1 box and centre diff and then I swapped the centre diff for a Dccd one, but kept the box itself) for many thousands of miles (circa 12K) at 450bhp/ 380ftlb and it was fine, but I don't do drag stuff or hard launches. I'm more about fast road and track.
Does that mean I could swap the centre diff from my Type R box onto my Blob wrx.