Impreza - Engine Rebuild Options...?
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Impreza - Engine Rebuild Options...?
Hi,
Purchased a '99 mint condition unmodified Impreza 2Ltr AWD.
Ran like a dream...until I took it to a track.
Lost compression on 2 cylinders...one con rod went and one big end. Totalled the engine...was a fun 1hr on the track mind you. Completely self inflicted on every single level
So, my lovely Impreza is in a garage waiting for a rebuild.
I have 4 options:
I am not sure what the 2.5Ltr race engine would be like? Could this have the potential to damage my clutch and 5 speed gearbox over a period of time?
The car is 99% road use and maybe a day or two at a track a year.
I have been racing tracks since I was a little whipper snapper...but never in my own car.
Cheers,
Woka
Purchased a '99 mint condition unmodified Impreza 2Ltr AWD.
Ran like a dream...until I took it to a track.
Lost compression on 2 cylinders...one con rod went and one big end. Totalled the engine...was a fun 1hr on the track mind you. Completely self inflicted on every single level
So, my lovely Impreza is in a garage waiting for a rebuild.
I have 4 options:
- Rebuild with like for like components: £1700
- Rebuild with upgraded race pistols, con rods, crank shaft, oil pump and oil sump baffle: £3000
- Rebuild to 2.1Ltr with upgraded race pistols, con rods, 2.5 Ltr crank shaft, oil pump and oil sump baffle: £3200
- "New" 2.5Ltr race engine that's only done 8 x 10 mile sprints. The guy who had it custom built now wants a better engine in his car: £2400
I am not sure what the 2.5Ltr race engine would be like? Could this have the potential to damage my clutch and 5 speed gearbox over a period of time?
The car is 99% road use and maybe a day or two at a track a year.
I have been racing tracks since I was a little whipper snapper...but never in my own car.
Cheers,
Woka
#2
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Who is building the engine would be my first question?
Don't think the 5 speed will last long with a 2.5 depending what power you are planning to run. Don't forget your box is 15 years old!
Don't think the 5 speed will last long with a 2.5 depending what power you are planning to run. Don't forget your box is 15 years old!
#3
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For track use get expert advice, a race/track car is a different animal to a road car, lots of considerations such as heat etc etc
My advice would be to get a spec put together along with the right supporting mods by a tuner who knows what there doing.
My advice would be to get a spec put together along with the right supporting mods by a tuner who knows what there doing.
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Option 1. Will give you a good car to sell down the line (mint standard classics getting harder to find)
Option 2. Will give you a more reliable car that will have greater potential to tune down the line (you wouldn't be the first to get the bug and empty your pockets at it.)
Option 3. 4. Will give you a car that will ultimately become a money pit, ie gearbox clutch brakes etc.
Option 2. Will give you a more reliable car that will have greater potential to tune down the line (you wouldn't be the first to get the bug and empty your pockets at it.)
Option 3. 4. Will give you a car that will ultimately become a money pit, ie gearbox clutch brakes etc.
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Thanks for all your advice.
Yea. That was my logic and I instantly dismissed that as an option.
The car is being fixed by Richard Henry Motorsport: http://www.richardhenrymotorsport.co.uk/
Absolutely agree with this. It was never my intention to buy/build a track car. One day I had no car, the next an Impreza, then I saw a track day...as I said...completely self inflicted
Front suspension and brakes are probably the 1st upgrade I should do for future open track days. The brakes just didn't cut it imo. As I said in my 1st email it's a 99.99% road car, then maybe once a year an open track day for special occasions.
Interesting you mentioned cooling...what aspect of cooling would need to be upgraded?
I am leaning towards the £3000 build...same sized engine, just with meatier race components.
I think that any upgrade to torque/bhp will result in other components of the car failing.
The car is being fixed by Richard Henry Motorsport: http://www.richardhenrymotorsport.co.uk/
Front suspension and brakes are probably the 1st upgrade I should do for future open track days. The brakes just didn't cut it imo. As I said in my 1st email it's a 99.99% road car, then maybe once a year an open track day for special occasions.
Interesting you mentioned cooling...what aspect of cooling would need to be upgraded?
Option 1. Will give you a good car to sell down the line (mint standard classics getting harder to find)
Option 2. Will give you a more reliable car that will have greater potential to tune down the line (you wouldn't be the first to get the bug and empty your pockets at it.)
Option 3. 4. Will give you a car that will ultimately become a money pit, ie gearbox clutch brakes etc.
Option 2. Will give you a more reliable car that will have greater potential to tune down the line (you wouldn't be the first to get the bug and empty your pockets at it.)
Option 3. 4. Will give you a car that will ultimately become a money pit, ie gearbox clutch brakes etc.
I think that any upgrade to torque/bhp will result in other components of the car failing.
Last edited by WokaImp; 25 June 2014 at 10:23 AM.
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The car only cost me £2k, so can't justify throwing thousands at it.
Maybe towards the end of the year.
How much for a new gearbox and clutch? £800? I would have thought it would have been way more than that.
Wouldn't other components start stressing with this like drive shaft and various other components that are still 15 years old?
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Richard Henry if you are comfortable with spending £3000 then thats the one I would pick. With regards to cooling, Richard Henry will have that covered but more bhp = more cooling. The top mount ic has its limits and for big bhp you will need a front mount ic.
p.s options 3. 4. are going to be serious cars that need serious money and not a nice classic for the road. Option 2. will give you a starting point to go for bigger bhp down the line .
p.s options 3. 4. are going to be serious cars that need serious money and not a nice classic for the road. Option 2. will give you a starting point to go for bigger bhp down the line .
Last edited by Carnut; 25 June 2014 at 10:35 AM.
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I'd rather not spend anything to be honest...but I know if I go for the "cheap" option then I just may regret it further down the line.
Do things right, or don't do them at all.
Richard Henry's did mentioned new turbo fan and components if doing a full ECU upgrade to 280bph...but again, this will probably be towards the end of the year, or maybe even next...so didn't go into to much detail with them.
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£3k is really my limit at the moment.
The car only cost me £2k, so can't justify throwing thousands at it.
Maybe towards the end of the year.
How much for a new gearbox and clutch? £800? I would have thought it would have been way more than that.
Wouldn't other components start stressing with this like drive shaft and various other components that are still 15 years old?
The car only cost me £2k, so can't justify throwing thousands at it.
Maybe towards the end of the year.
How much for a new gearbox and clutch? £800? I would have thought it would have been way more than that.
Wouldn't other components start stressing with this like drive shaft and various other components that are still 15 years old?
Not saying this applies to you but given that threads like this are helpful to others suppose someone takes out a loan to pay for it, that's extra outlay per month. If the Insco adds a couple of hundred to the premium that's another £20-ish and if consumption drops only 2-3/gallon that's 10% extra on the fuel bill.
It could easily add up to an extra £200/mth (depending upon the loan terms of course).
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Does that include increased running costs such as Insurance and fuel?
Not saying this applies to you but given that threads like this are helpful to others suppose someone takes out a loan to pay for it, that's extra outlay per month. If the Insco adds a couple of hundred to the premium that's another £20-ish and if consumption drops only 2-3/gallon that's 10% extra on the fuel bill.
It could easily add up to an extra £200/mth (depending upon the loan terms of course).
Not saying this applies to you but given that threads like this are helpful to others suppose someone takes out a loan to pay for it, that's extra outlay per month. If the Insco adds a couple of hundred to the premium that's another £20-ish and if consumption drops only 2-3/gallon that's 10% extra on the fuel bill.
It could easily add up to an extra £200/mth (depending upon the loan terms of course).
On the track it emptied 1/2 the tank in 26 miles
I think this pretty much nails it for me.
There is no power upgrade at this point. It will still be a 2ltr, 220 bhp, car. The £850 ECU and turbo upgrade will come later.
If I hadn't just bought loads of snowboarding gear then I would have got this done at the same time as the engine rebuild...but I can wait...
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What's the benefit of this?
More torque, less revs due to the bigger stroke from the 2.5 crank shaft?
Is this just as easy to upgrade further down the line?
The car handled, and ran, beautifully before the engine decided to digest itself. One of the best cars I've ever driven. Is there any need to change from something that "worked" fine before?
That £200 can be put towards the ECU upgrade.
One thing I definitely don't want to do is to cause a knock on effect that potentially means I have to replace more parts.
While I don't mind spending £3k on a rebuild...I'd rather not push all my disposable cash into the car...at this point anyways.
More torque, less revs due to the bigger stroke from the 2.5 crank shaft?
Is this just as easy to upgrade further down the line?
The car handled, and ran, beautifully before the engine decided to digest itself. One of the best cars I've ever driven. Is there any need to change from something that "worked" fine before?
That £200 can be put towards the ECU upgrade.
One thing I definitely don't want to do is to cause a knock on effect that potentially means I have to replace more parts.
While I don't mind spending £3k on a rebuild...I'd rather not push all my disposable cash into the car...at this point anyways.
Last edited by WokaImp; 25 June 2014 at 11:43 AM.
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Yep I'd go 2.1 for the sake of 200 quid.
The cooling aspect is with regards to the spec of the build which will relate to what it is predominantly to be used for.
A race engine is a totally different animal to a road engine, piston, rod, crank clearances will all be different, which again depends on the parts used and the materials they are made from, which will aid cooling in an engine that is going to spend it's life at full chat.
Mechanical sympathy is a term I think the OP needs to familiarise himself with or things are going to get VERY expensive.
The cooling aspect is with regards to the spec of the build which will relate to what it is predominantly to be used for.
A race engine is a totally different animal to a road engine, piston, rod, crank clearances will all be different, which again depends on the parts used and the materials they are made from, which will aid cooling in an engine that is going to spend it's life at full chat.
Mechanical sympathy is a term I think the OP needs to familiarise himself with or things are going to get VERY expensive.
Last edited by ditchmyster; 25 June 2014 at 11:46 AM.
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What's your logic for this choice?
0.1 Ltr extra for £200?...or are we talking general engine performance and running?
Edit: I am intrigued at why some recommend the 2.1 upgrade and some the straight meatier engine component upgrade. It's all valuable info to me as this level of customization isn't something I've really got into with engines. Will the 2.1 be better at handling the ECU upgrade?
lol...tbh I think I need to familiarize myself with driving an Impreza and calming myself down. Never had so much fun in a car. All race protocols, tactics and cornering simply went out of the window after the 1st few corners...I had two modes...foot not on accelerator...foot full on accelerator in 2nd and 3rd.
For 30mins I was just Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee....then paid the price for it
0.1 Ltr extra for £200?...or are we talking general engine performance and running?
Edit: I am intrigued at why some recommend the 2.1 upgrade and some the straight meatier engine component upgrade. It's all valuable info to me as this level of customization isn't something I've really got into with engines. Will the 2.1 be better at handling the ECU upgrade?
For 30mins I was just Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee....then paid the price for it
Last edited by WokaImp; 25 June 2014 at 12:06 PM.
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The 2.0 (option 2) will have the potential for big bhp but the 2.1 will have the potential for bigger bhp.
The question you need to ask your self is how big will you go. Will you be willing to spend the extra money the 2.1 is capable of .
Down the line you may want really big bhp and if you have not gone for the 2.1 then you might regret it. Like wise down the line if you do not go for big bhp and maybe just a map or standard then you will wish you had the standard setup when it comes to selling.
Keep it 2.0 I say, leave the 2.1 and so on for the big boys who like the extreme world of modding.
The question you need to ask your self is how big will you go. Will you be willing to spend the extra money the 2.1 is capable of .
Down the line you may want really big bhp and if you have not gone for the 2.1 then you might regret it. Like wise down the line if you do not go for big bhp and maybe just a map or standard then you will wish you had the standard setup when it comes to selling.
Keep it 2.0 I say, leave the 2.1 and so on for the big boys who like the extreme world of modding.
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What's your logic for this choice?
0.1 Ltr extra for £200?...or are we talking general engine performance and running?
Edit: I am intrigued at why some recommend the 2.1 upgrade and some the straight meatier engine component upgrade. It's all valuable info to me as this level of customization isn't something I've really got into with engines. Will the 2.1 be better at handling the ECU upgrade?
0.1 Ltr extra for £200?...or are we talking general engine performance and running?
Edit: I am intrigued at why some recommend the 2.1 upgrade and some the straight meatier engine component upgrade. It's all valuable info to me as this level of customization isn't something I've really got into with engines. Will the 2.1 be better at handling the ECU upgrade?
With the 2.1 you will gain extra torque, and reduce turbo lag. I've had both a 2.0 and a 2.1, and the 2.1 was "better" to drive IMO from a torque point of view.
Both the 2.0 and the 2.1 should be as reliable.
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Option 2 would get my vote since you are tracking it but going off on a tangent for a second as the build is also being considered around some track use don't get hung up on big power and chasing a figure. Reliability is king and also for fast road consider the suspension set up and brakes as that will allow you to go faster than another 50bhp. Step back and make a rough plan first for the bigger picture.
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General opinion is that it was caused by dropping it down a gear while in high revs.
It was at Croft rally track, near Darlington. Great track and has a lot of tight bends. So for maybe 0.5 miles there was no time to change up and so the engine was constantly in very high revs...how high, no idea, was having to much fun.
I never intended to mod the car...but I am looking at an £850 ECU and turbo fan upgrade. I think that takes it to 280bhp.
I have 0 intention of taking this any further than this, or kitting it out as a track car.
Main aim is to get me snowboarding and to Ikea, while being incredibly fun to drive...and maybe the odd track day once a year.
I definitely want to look at the brakes at some point....probably best to do before the ECU upgrade.
Thanks everyone for the advice and tips.
It was at Croft rally track, near Darlington. Great track and has a lot of tight bends. So for maybe 0.5 miles there was no time to change up and so the engine was constantly in very high revs...how high, no idea, was having to much fun.
Down the line you may want really big bhp and if you have not gone for the 2.1 then you might regret it. Like wise down the line if you do not go for big bhp and maybe just a map or standard then you will wish you had the standard setup when it comes to selling.
Keep it 2.0 I say, leave the 2.1 and so on for the big boys who like the extreme world of modding.
Keep it 2.0 I say, leave the 2.1 and so on for the big boys who like the extreme world of modding.
I have 0 intention of taking this any further than this, or kitting it out as a track car.
Main aim is to get me snowboarding and to Ikea, while being incredibly fun to drive...and maybe the odd track day once a year.
Option 2 would get my vote since you are tracking it but going off on a tangent for a second as the build is also being considered around some track use don't get hung up on big power and chasing a figure. Reliability is king and also for fast road consider the suspension set up and brakes as that will allow you to go faster than another 50bhp. Step back and make a rough plan first for the bigger picture.
Thanks everyone for the advice and tips.
Last edited by WokaImp; 25 June 2014 at 02:12 PM.
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Which ever option you take you will NEED to look at the cooling if you're going on track.
Forged or not, an engine that is running on oil at a temp that is outside of it's effective range or where inlet temps aren't under control will go bang too!! Track work is cruel on cars with respect to temps as you've found out the hard way!
A really good forged build on the 2ltr with a FMIC and oil cooler would be a nice car and *might* not even crucify your clutch and gearbox if you're not running a big turbo.
Best of luck
Forged or not, an engine that is running on oil at a temp that is outside of it's effective range or where inlet temps aren't under control will go bang too!! Track work is cruel on cars with respect to temps as you've found out the hard way!
A really good forged build on the 2ltr with a FMIC and oil cooler would be a nice car and *might* not even crucify your clutch and gearbox if you're not running a big turbo.
Best of luck
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Which ever option you take you will NEED to look at the cooling if you're going on track.
Forged or not, an engine that is running on oil at a temp that is outside of it's effective range or where inlet temps aren't under control will go bang too!! Track work is cruel on cars with respect to temps as you've found out the hard way!
A really good forged build on the 2ltr with a FMIC and oil cooler would be a nice car and *might* not even crucify your clutch and gearbox if you're not running a big turbo.
Best of luck
Forged or not, an engine that is running on oil at a temp that is outside of it's effective range or where inlet temps aren't under control will go bang too!! Track work is cruel on cars with respect to temps as you've found out the hard way!
A really good forged build on the 2ltr with a FMIC and oil cooler would be a nice car and *might* not even crucify your clutch and gearbox if you're not running a big turbo.
Best of luck
Do you have any useful links on them?
Richard Henry's take photos from start to finish of the rebuild, so I should have plenty to show.
#28
I've got a 2.1 and its been a brillliant engine. *touch wood* done 20k+ miles on an open deck block at 500hp and still going strong.
Gearbox, clutch and turbo have all given up before the engine lol
Gearbox, clutch and turbo have all given up before the engine lol
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It's a slippery slope you say 280 bhp you ll be sticking to but one track day turns into two etc then its hmmm
330 hp then 400, you will get used to the power!!
I would go 2.1.
330 hp then 400, you will get used to the power!!
I would go 2.1.
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I already race in the British and European Pro Kart championship races and that isn't cheap so I don't fancy taking up another more expensive motorsport...just yet
From all your comments it seems like you are all split almost 50/50 between the 2Ltr and the 2.1Ltr. Typical
Last few questions:
- Why would the 2Ltr be more resellable? Is this purely because it's the "default" engine in a classic Impreza?
- I am assuming that the 2.1Ltr is just as customizable as the 2Ltr further down the line?
- The only real difference I can see from what people have said is that the 2.1Ltr will be able to produce and handle more Bhp with mods than the 2Ltr...plus slightly higher torque, slightly less revs. Any ideas at how much more torque? 5%?
- Is the 2.1 rebuild basically what is referred to as a 2.1 stroker kit?
Rather than pros, I should probably ask the cons of each engine as that may be simpler.
I need to make a decision today so the paper work can be done tomorrow and the work on my car can start on Monday.
I am still on the side of the 2ltr option, rather than 2.1.
Thanks for your help.
Last edited by WokaImp; 26 June 2014 at 09:07 AM.