The Hazards light still work but nothing else... No dash light etc.... Have checked both fuse boxes,they look fine. Car is 95 legacy turbo.

Any clues...HELP!!!!

 

Guess so unsure as never actually done this

Spiked the ECU and fried it or possibly spiked the alarm/immobiliser and killed it. A dealer is going to want HUGE money to sort this out.

Richard

 

first point of call is check the battery voltage. You may have killed a few cells which means the volts are too low to provide any power.

If that is OK (should be about 13-13.5Volts) i suggest you call an auto electrician. Electrics are about the hardest thing to diagnose without having the car in front of you.

 

May have blown a fuse link near the battery or fried a relay.

Are you saying that all things work that dont need the ignition on?
If so definatly some somt of main ignition circuit fuse link or relay.

Lee

 

Not good I'm afraid. Bloke once did this with one of my lorries. Almost burned the bloody cab out. Daft bugger....Blutes

 

Richard
You really know how to cheer a chap up in his hour of need!

 

If you're lucky, damage will mostly be limited to the battery.

 

Will check bettery voltage today. Clifford immobiliser light is not flashing. Only hazard lights come on.Even when I put leads on from my other car( The right way .....!!) this does not get anything to work,Windows included. Are the windows controlled from the ECU????

Cheers

[Edited by Luke - 5/30/2002 8:13:49 AM]

 

Luke,

er, "Rowlocks". I'd get to an auto electrician. If windows aren't working, that could be simply because cells are dead in the battery - or it could be worse.

Chuck a new battery on. If it works, good. If it doesn't, seek help.

Hope it's not too bad.

Nick.

 

I think Luke is saying that he tried leads direct from another car, i.e. effectively a new battery (presumably from a car that works). Have the other car running when you try to start, is any current drawn?

If the starter isn't turning then it is most likely alarm/immobiliser trouble. The starter circuit is independent of ECU etc. When you turn the ignition can you hear any relays clicking at all? e.g. fuel pump etc. Check alarm/immob fuses, then get on the phone

 

sound strange, but have you checked the main fuse box in the engine bay, no just the one in the car ? You may have fried the wiring loom... if so expect a bill for 1700+ (someone bought a car with a fried loom into our local dealership and the dealers eyes lit up like a dog on heat !)

 

mate who had a new boxter did this, and it proper ****'d up his electrics. Cost him 2g to get it fixed. I think that the fuzebox melted and was smoking before he realised what he was doing...

 

I'm a Chartered Electrical Engineer, but this means nothing as far as cars are concerned!

Here's my ten pen'orth

1. Battery
2. Fuses (all of them!)
3. Anything else obvious (melted wires)
4. A systematic approach. So you start at the battery (or the ignition) and follow it through 'till you find something. This is much easier said than done - probably need wiring diagrams and bits to make it productive.

I think if you've done 1-3 it's over to a specialist

 

I hope you have the old battery totally disconnected when you do this?

 

Cement : Yeah I didn't mean it like that though

Luke : As John Felstead said you might be lucky and only killed the battery. But the reason I suggested Immobiliser ECU is that these are pretty fragile generally and if its been fried only the hazards will work (as when the're installed that circuit is normally left alone. So you can leave them on and arm the system) You say the light isn't flashing so might be worth investigating.

My comiserations (sp?)

 

where about in the country are you?... oh and I reckon it will be expensive

David

 

reverse polarity through a 12 v system will normally cause masive ecu damage,have had this with one of the cars i worked on at work(owner, set of jump leads,dark garage, get the picture.)you norally get a strong smell of fried electrics inside the car and around ecu area,start by fitting a new battery then with a multi-meter check battery voltage should be at least 12.20 v or there abouts then follow the positive lead to the next connection and check battery voltage again do this all the way through all connections untill you get to the fuse box check all the maxi fuses under the bonnet if fitted and check all fuses in car this is going to take a long time as you can see but normally this type of fault ends up costing a few dollars drop me a line if have probs and i will try my best to help where abouts are you by the way,oh yes it does not matter if the component is not connected to the battery circuit in mention they all run 12v neg earth