Adam Matthew Silver

Finally got round to having a look what induction kit had been fitted too my 2002 wrx wagon. well, what a mess... one VERY rusty, crapy universal cone and the pipe wasn't even bolted in and was pushing the arch out.




am i better off with a proper induction kit or standard air box ?

Franks

The standard airbox is fine, unless you're looking to go over 400 (I think?) BHP. My car had an induction kit when I bought it, I got an OEM airbox and associated pipework for a reasonable amount from one of the breakers on here.
Some people say you need to have the map changed when going to an induction kit from an OEM airbox or vice versa, some say you don't. I don't know enough to have an opinion either way

L.J.F

iTrader: (31)

Get a standard one off eBay or a breaker on here, no need for a induction kit and less chance of killing the Maf.

Cpt Jack Sparrow

iTrader: (14)

why does an induction kit kill the MAF, just curious?

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Go back to standard setup, watch Mighty car mods you be surprised at results

RedScoob

2 ways. If the MAF isn't secured well after removing the airbox, vibration can affect it. Also, some filters are impregnated with oil that interferes with the hot wire reading of the MAF.

Hawkeye D

If you go standard airbox, I've got a Pro-R dry foam filter you could have.
I didn't like it in my 07 STi as it all felt too airy really, but I'd do it for you £20 posted.

It's done...................about 8 miles (tops!)

thunder8

iTrader: (1)

i have a v5 1999 airbox with green panel filter for free just pay postage buddy ..

i went front mount so had to loose the box and go rcm induction as it looked sweet

Adam Matthew Silver

Sweet, just at pm'd you regarding airbox :-)

Cpt Jack Sparrow

iTrader: (14)

Ah I see, I'm good on both those counts so my MAF should survive

DmcL

thats an ebay special intake lol

its a pity they never tested a ram air intake on that MCM vid. i havent done the dyno testing as i havent got a dyno but i do have a temp meter with K type probe like they wre using for monitoing temp as well as a wideband mater. with ram air on the car i experimented with i saw a leaning out of the air/fuel ratio as road speed increased, in laymans terms faster = more air rammed into the intake and subsequently into the engine (and at a cool temp as with their ghetto cold air pipe) which could be seen by the leaning of the air/fuel ratio which started to be noticeable from high 2nd/mid 3rd gear and leaned more as speed/gears got higher.

trouble with a ram air intake is you cant accurately replicate that affect on a dyno unless the dyno has a variable speed fan which matches the wheel speed.

i also messed with open filter, airbox, and cold air. ram air intakes are the best followed by a well placed cold air setup (basically what they did but finding somewhere realistic to mount the filter) and then the airbox. an open filter/short ram intake will lose power on n/a cars generally, interesting to see they say it makes no difference to temps after turbo, id have thought that 10 or so degrees warmer would have made a difference after the turbo..

i know its not a subaru but this is my other toy which i built and tested the intake types on. in this pic you can see i removed the inner full beam lamps and replaced them with velocity stacks, the left one went through a flexi feed hose and just fed cool air to the intake side of the engine bay (i didnt like the 1 lamp missing look hence removed both) and the feed from the right side went directly to a sealed filter and was airtight right up to the filter so air had nowhere else to go. i ran this setup for around a year, rain, shine, warm, cold with no issue though if it was bucketing down i didnt follow close behind the car infront and i didnt make a point of going full throttle as often as i would normally just to be on the safe side.. as well as confirmation of more air via wideband, the butt dyno registered an improvement from around 50mph and up (basically around where the air/fuel ratio would start to lean a bit).



im debating whether or not to make a similar setup for my hawk eye WRX as i could remove the fog lights, or even just one fog light and run the sealed feed to the fog panel on the bumper and use that for my unobstructed inlet and i could just throw an STi blanking plate over the fog light on the other side as i have a pair of those here. would end up like this minus the hacked up bumper:

https://i.imgur.com/3xRxZIF.jpg

dabiscuit

Does anyone bother removing the snorkus? And in a hawkeye does that mean pealing back the wheel arch lining?

DmcL

think it may mean that, or bumper removal? not sure but had a quick look at mine to get an idea of whats involved fitting a cold air intake i bought and it looks like bumper or arch liner job as snorkus would need removed for it also.

dabiscuit

People have to said to remove the snorkus. Not sure why. I assumed it had something to do with it collecting dirty air maybe?!

I was thinking of buying one of the k&n small induction kits. I know I'm not gonna be hitting the dizzy heights of 400bhp but they sound cool and look good under the bonnet. Or should I just not bother at all?

DmcL

going by the MCM vid above it seems like personal preference really. do you want to spend money for some noise and the same or similar power or just live with the airbox.

cant say i noticed any real difference with the intake i did on my WRX apart from the sound. i could swear it spooled ever so slightly quicker but might just be the noise fooling me. if theres not any power to be had from a normal induction kit type intake then i dont see the point spending alot for a brand name item when the 30 quid ebay jobbies do the same thing for far less. its an ebay intake pipe im using and no issues with the standard ECU, my air/fuel ratio looked fine after swapping over from the airbox. also im still running the intake pipe with my HKS mushroom filter on a stage 1 tune now as well and still no issues. if you do go for the ebay special make sure its the cheaper/shorter one not the kit thats 2 parts as thats the cold air kit and you cant just use the smaller section under the bonnet as its longer than the same peice in the short kit if that makes sense. also id suggest using a decent filter rather than the gumph that comes with the ebay kits (like the filter in the first post here which is a cheapy).

Adam Matthew Silver

Airbox in. Took some diy as i didnt have the correct pipes. But all good

Adam Matthew Silver

well. just took the car for a spin and the boost issue has sorted its self out

now pulls really well from 3500/4000 ish rather than 5000+

Gear Head

iTrader: (2)

Try and convince the guys on facebook that the airbox is the bst route.

Adam Matthew Silver

haha. the difference is unreal.

gone from not pulling hard till 5000 rpm. to full boost from just over 35000 now

got to remember though..induction kits are cool haha

just me

iTrader: (3)

I needed an induction kit to get over 400bhp, I have the same kit, but I chopped the pipe that goes in the inner wing just after the bend, then fitted a massive KnN, got me an extra 15bhp and 20ftlb.

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

Why when a CS400 and Litchfield Type 25 have standard ones?

just me

iTrader: (3)

Becuase that was the advice given to me by AndyF The cs400 and type 25 are not over 400bhp are they ?

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

***** waving again! Type 25 is about 415bhp, the CS 400 can be mapped to just over, so yes.

just me

iTrader: (3)

How is taking advice from one of the most respected tuners in the world ***** waving?

We all know what AndyF has achieved so who am I to argue? The advice he gave me worked!!

Are you on your period or something?

Adam Matthew Silver

ok kids calm it down haha.

each to their own nd all that. I used to run induction kits (pipercross ) on previous cars, but pretty much just for the noise more than anything *( clio williams and an ST170 )*

i imagine my scoob would have been fine with an induction kit if it wasnt rusty as **** and wobling about in the arch. worked out cheaper to put a box in. and tbh it sounds nicer got a nice throaty induction noise without a £100+ induction kit

seems in most cars it lowers power as you end up with the cone in the engine bay, sucking in the hot air. if you can get it in the wing its all good. but most cars dont have the option. and tbh i think removing grills/lights to add a ram air pipe is just plain stupid. haha

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

Did you do the extra holes in the side or were they already done as you got it 2nd hand etc ?

DmcL

those holes will pull in warmer air..

regarding your intake pipe to the airbox. if its the same bit from the intake then it should be safe enough as im running the same section of ebay intake but with an HKS mushroom filter on it and i have recently been logging bits of my ECU and can confirm that on my 06 WRX atleast, that it doesnt throw MAF scaling out much at all so with an airbox that would probably be even less.

Adam Matthew Silver

Hole were in it when i got it (2nd hand ) im probably going to put a plastic plate over those holes. havent got round to it yet.

dabiscuit

On the subject of induction, DcmL weren't you doing some test on a ebay bought kit vs a branded kit? Correct me if I am wrong. What have been your findings? I am considering spending 110 quid on a K&N short feed kit, but have seen on ebay ones for half the price, but are they skimping on quality?

Adam Matthew Silver

If the one i removed is anything to go by ( looks like the cheap ones on ebay ) i wouldnt touch them.. it was rusty and small. and pretty nasty !!