WRX Blobeye Long Build - Fast Road Project
13 October 2013, 05:09 PM
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WRX Blobeye Long Build - Fast Road Project
I have finally decided that after everything I've been through with this car, it's staying. It's a 2005 WRX with a VF34, 550 STI Injectors, new pink box excedy stage 1 clutch, new cambelt kit and water pump, few other mods and a knackered gearbox, oh it was also a Cat D a few years back.
I have to always have something on my mind and have decided that a proper project is needed to keep my mind busy. It's only done 50,000 miles but the gearbox has lost 3rd gear, sounds like a load of teeth rattling inside the box, it also needs two new rear shocks as one has lost its bounce, it's either up in the air or down on the wheel.
I have tools required to do what I want (or can always purchase them), I have enough space. I do not have a budget as such as this is a long term project so if I want something, I can just save up for it as I work full time and don't have may outgoings (I dont have kids, mortgage, marriage etc.. yet). I have a fair bit of mechanical knowledge but being 22 I'm still learning, I have taken engines out before, done clutches etc.
The project wont start until the end of October as I plan on putting down a concrete base to put the car on and build a roof over it so will be doing that this month.
I guarantee I'll do things wrong, get frustrated, lose hope but this is something I really want to do and hopefully with all your help I'll get there.
The car at the moment should be pushing 320bhpish but would like it to run quite a lot more, 450bhp+ so would like some advice on what is best? Been looking at a few other threads and would need something like a CDB and a 2.1 stroker kit? I think my WRX is pushing its limits at 320bhp so would be selling that with low mileage to fund my new engine. Would also need a 6speed box. I was hoping my turbo should be okay (only a year old) and my injectors too? Would also want a FMIC. The car would ideally be a very fast road car (insurance allowing when it's completely), though I wouldn't complain if it ends up a track car.
Any advice would be handy
.
Here she is as she stands:
I have to always have something on my mind and have decided that a proper project is needed to keep my mind busy. It's only done 50,000 miles but the gearbox has lost 3rd gear, sounds like a load of teeth rattling inside the box, it also needs two new rear shocks as one has lost its bounce, it's either up in the air or down on the wheel.
I have tools required to do what I want (or can always purchase them), I have enough space. I do not have a budget as such as this is a long term project so if I want something, I can just save up for it as I work full time and don't have may outgoings (I dont have kids, mortgage, marriage etc.. yet). I have a fair bit of mechanical knowledge but being 22 I'm still learning, I have taken engines out before, done clutches etc.
The project wont start until the end of October as I plan on putting down a concrete base to put the car on and build a roof over it so will be doing that this month.
I guarantee I'll do things wrong, get frustrated, lose hope but this is something I really want to do and hopefully with all your help I'll get there.
The car at the moment should be pushing 320bhpish but would like it to run quite a lot more, 450bhp+ so would like some advice on what is best? Been looking at a few other threads and would need something like a CDB and a 2.1 stroker kit? I think my WRX is pushing its limits at 320bhp so would be selling that with low mileage to fund my new engine. Would also need a 6speed box. I was hoping my turbo should be okay (only a year old) and my injectors too? Would also want a FMIC. The car would ideally be a very fast road car (insurance allowing when it's completely), though I wouldn't complain if it ends up a track car.
Any advice would be handy
. Here she is as she stands:
Last edited by RCS2810; 13 October 2013 at 06:59 PM.
13 October 2013, 05:49 PM
#2
Sounds like a good project bud.
Advice - well forget everything else. Once you start this it will be constantly on your mind until it's complete. At least you have a good knowledge base, that's a better start than me.
Winter is a bitter ******* when you're outside working on the car, even undercover so get plenty of layers of old clothes you don't want anymore.
People say to list everything you want beforehand, but I find that changes within about 10 minutes anyway.
For 450BHP I think I'm right in saying you'd have to change Turbo (probably rotated), injectors I think would be around 800cc. 2.1 sounds good, hopefully I'll let you know what one is like soon enough lol.
Any advice you need let me know, looks like you're only up the road from me. I'm in Crawley.
Advice - well forget everything else. Once you start this it will be constantly on your mind until it's complete. At least you have a good knowledge base, that's a better start than me.
Winter is a bitter ******* when you're outside working on the car, even undercover so get plenty of layers of old clothes you don't want anymore.
People say to list everything you want beforehand, but I find that changes within about 10 minutes anyway.
For 450BHP I think I'm right in saying you'd have to change Turbo (probably rotated), injectors I think would be around 800cc. 2.1 sounds good, hopefully I'll let you know what one is like soon enough lol.
Any advice you need let me know, looks like you're only up the road from me. I'm in Crawley.
13 October 2013, 06:05 PM
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Yes it's already always on my mind and I haven't even started it yet lol. Yeah got loads of old clothes I can stick on.
Yeah just read that the VF34 are good for up to 350bhp so would be looking at either a 450 or 500 billet, that's a long way down the line though to be honest. Engine is first on my list, then cleaning engine bay, rust proofing and respraying, then gearbox, then bolt ons are last like turbo etc.
I'm sure I'll be in contact soon thanks for the offer.
Yeah just read that the VF34 are good for up to 350bhp so would be looking at either a 450 or 500 billet, that's a long way down the line though to be honest. Engine is first on my list, then cleaning engine bay, rust proofing and respraying, then gearbox, then bolt ons are last like turbo etc.
I'm sure I'll be in contact soon thanks for the offer
.
13 October 2013, 06:18 PM
#4
for 450-500 you can use any variation of the blocks, ODB< SCDB or CDB.
It all depends how much power you want, im running over 500 on an ODB and hve done for 4years+
do you want 450 or 500, turbo choices etc differ vastly considering what output you want.
I would thoroughly suggest doing it properly, and using decent exhaust manifolds, the gains are incredible even compared to what is regarded as "the best" over here (Like RCM etc) they really do blow them out of the water in every department.
Last better, give you more spool, more power and more response, really are worth every penny.
http://www.killerbmotorsport.com/index_files/Header.htm
I would also SERIOUSLY consider your power outputs for a "fast road" car. 450-500 is far too fast for the road.
350 is about where you want to be imo for a fast road car. I have a 500+hp scooby, and it has the full set up and 10's of 1000's of £££££ invested in it, and even with such a complete set up you cannot drive it to anywhere near even 50% of its potential on the road.
On the track, it is a completely different animal and will eat pretty much anything out there on track, including GTR's and anything else silly enough to get infront of me. But as I said, on the road I doubt i drive it to even 30% of its true potential, which is a bit of a waste if all you want is a fast road car and not a track/race car
It all depends how much power you want, im running over 500 on an ODB and hve done for 4years+
do you want 450 or 500, turbo choices etc differ vastly considering what output you want.
I would thoroughly suggest doing it properly, and using decent exhaust manifolds, the gains are incredible even compared to what is regarded as "the best" over here (Like RCM etc) they really do blow them out of the water in every department.
Last better, give you more spool, more power and more response, really are worth every penny.
http://www.killerbmotorsport.com/index_files/Header.htm
I would also SERIOUSLY consider your power outputs for a "fast road" car. 450-500 is far too fast for the road.
350 is about where you want to be imo for a fast road car. I have a 500+hp scooby, and it has the full set up and 10's of 1000's of £££££ invested in it, and even with such a complete set up you cannot drive it to anywhere near even 50% of its potential on the road.
On the track, it is a completely different animal and will eat pretty much anything out there on track, including GTR's and anything else silly enough to get infront of me. But as I said, on the road I doubt i drive it to even 30% of its true potential, which is a bit of a waste if all you want is a fast road car and not a track/race car
13 October 2013, 06:29 PM
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for 450-500 you can use any variation of the blocks, ODB< SCDB or CDB.
It all depends how much power you want, im running over 500 on an ODB and hve done for 4years+
do you want 450 or 500, turbo choices etc differ vastly considering what output you want.
I would thoroughly suggest doing it properly, and using decent exhaust manifolds, the gains are incredible even compared to what is regarded as "the best" over here (Like RCM etc) they really do blow them out of the water in every department.
Last better, give you more spool, more power and more response, really are worth every penny.
http://www.killerbmotorsport.com/index_files/Header.htm
I would also SERIOUSLY consider your power outputs for a "fast road" car. 450-500 is far too fast for the road.
350 is about where you want to be imo for a fast road car. I have a 500+hp scooby, and it has the full set up and 10's of 1000's of £££££ invested in it, and even with such a complete set up you cannot drive it to anywhere near even 50% of its potential on the road.
On the track, it is a completely different animal and will eat pretty much anything out there on track, including GTR's and anything else silly enough to get infront of me. But as I said, on the road I doubt i drive it to even 30% of its true potential, which is a bit of a waste if all you want is a fast road car and not a track/race car
It all depends how much power you want, im running over 500 on an ODB and hve done for 4years+
do you want 450 or 500, turbo choices etc differ vastly considering what output you want.
I would thoroughly suggest doing it properly, and using decent exhaust manifolds, the gains are incredible even compared to what is regarded as "the best" over here (Like RCM etc) they really do blow them out of the water in every department.
Last better, give you more spool, more power and more response, really are worth every penny.
http://www.killerbmotorsport.com/index_files/Header.htm
I would also SERIOUSLY consider your power outputs for a "fast road" car. 450-500 is far too fast for the road.
350 is about where you want to be imo for a fast road car. I have a 500+hp scooby, and it has the full set up and 10's of 1000's of £££££ invested in it, and even with such a complete set up you cannot drive it to anywhere near even 50% of its potential on the road.
On the track, it is a completely different animal and will eat pretty much anything out there on track, including GTR's and anything else silly enough to get infront of me. But as I said, on the road I doubt i drive it to even 30% of its true potential, which is a bit of a waste if all you want is a fast road car and not a track/race car
Yes I am spending the next couple of weeks looking at what I need and what is best. Thing is wouldn't want to spend so much money and efford on a block that might not last long so thought a CDB would be best? Can always get a cheapish one with knocking as it's being rebuilt.
13 October 2013, 06:58 PM
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Wow, won the lottery or just parts you've saved up over the years? Well I do plan on doing it over a couple of years, to be honest however long it takes to make the car I want (even if it just becomes a track car), just want something with ridiculous amounts of power. I have no time limit.
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13 October 2013, 07:13 PM
#9
Wow, won the lottery or just parts you've saved up over the years? Well I do plan on doing it over a couple of years, to be honest however long it takes to make the car I want (even if it just becomes a track car), just want something with ridiculous amounts of power. I have no time limit.
This is the shell how it looked when I brought it but will be totally different when its finished
And this is where it will get finished can you see all the parts on the blue shelves
13 October 2013, 07:24 PM
#11
good luck with your project matey.i too am building a 2.1 stroker wrx
source a block that needs a rebuild then look at your kit options,im looking at buying from the states as its a hell of a lot cheaper
i dont agree with 350bhp being enough for a newage fast road car,i have 354bhp in my blob wrx with a short ration version 6 box the 0-60 time is very quick but i feel it lacks a bit mid-range
im looking for 450bhp myself with bags of torque aswell but i still want quick spool so im looking at the md series turbos from lateral performance
dont forget brakes mate and suspension aswell
heres a few links
http://stores.ebay.com/Real-Street-P...es?refid=store
http://realstreetperformance.com/store/subaru-66/
http://www.6starspeed.com/suwrxejpe2st.html
source a block that needs a rebuild then look at your kit options,im looking at buying from the states as its a hell of a lot cheaper
i dont agree with 350bhp being enough for a newage fast road car,i have 354bhp in my blob wrx with a short ration version 6 box the 0-60 time is very quick but i feel it lacks a bit mid-range
im looking for 450bhp myself with bags of torque aswell but i still want quick spool so im looking at the md series turbos from lateral performance
dont forget brakes mate and suspension aswell
heres a few links
http://stores.ebay.com/Real-Street-P...es?refid=store
http://realstreetperformance.com/store/subaru-66/
http://www.6starspeed.com/suwrxejpe2st.html
13 October 2013, 07:31 PM
#12
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good luck with your project matey.i too am building a 2.1 stroker wrx
source a block that needs a rebuild then look at your kit options,im looking at buying from the states as its a hell of a lot cheaper
i dont agree with 350bhp being enough for a newage fast road car,i have 354bhp in my blob wrx with a short ration version 6 box the 0-60 time is very quick but i feel it lacks a bit mid-range
im looking for 450bhp myself with bags of torque aswell but i still want quick spool so im looking at the md series turbos from lateral performance
dont forget brakes mate and suspension aswell
heres a few links
http://stores.ebay.com/Real-Street-P...es?refid=store
http://realstreetperformance.com/store/subaru-66/
http://www.6starspeed.com/suwrxejpe2st.html
source a block that needs a rebuild then look at your kit options,im looking at buying from the states as its a hell of a lot cheaper
i dont agree with 350bhp being enough for a newage fast road car,i have 354bhp in my blob wrx with a short ration version 6 box the 0-60 time is very quick but i feel it lacks a bit mid-range
im looking for 450bhp myself with bags of torque aswell but i still want quick spool so im looking at the md series turbos from lateral performance
dont forget brakes mate and suspension aswell
heres a few links
http://stores.ebay.com/Real-Street-P...es?refid=store
http://realstreetperformance.com/store/subaru-66/
http://www.6starspeed.com/suwrxejpe2st.html
13 October 2013, 07:35 PM
#13
my wrx when i bought it was fitted with an sti bottom end fitted with the standard wrx heads,i had it mapped but on the dyno it big ended so i bought a full sti 8 long engine inc avcs heads from pole position
my plan is to rebuild the scdb from my previous engine failure then remove my avcs heads and re-fresh them and fit them to the 2.1 then flog my working bottom end OR flog my complete sti 8 engine and look for some big port jdm heads
my plan is to rebuild the scdb from my previous engine failure then remove my avcs heads and re-fresh them and fit them to the 2.1 then flog my working bottom end OR flog my complete sti 8 engine and look for some big port jdm heads
13 October 2013, 07:54 PM
#17
they are open deck but my car suffered failure before i got the car and the previous owner put a scdb in it with the original heads but that failed on the day i had it mapped
my car is now on its 3rd engine
thats how ive ended up with a spare scdb
13 October 2013, 08:17 PM
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I've heard of SlowBoy but I'm thinking it would be cheaper to get one from a private seller, it'll be stripped down and rebuilt anyway.
13 October 2013, 08:25 PM
#24
No just a thought if you get stuck but be carefull you really want a untouched one with standard boares these are getting rare now just make sure you measure them first before parting with the hard earnd as been caught out by a trusted member not that he knew he had so I just wore it 
13 October 2013, 08:27 PM
#25
No just a thought if you get stuck but be carefull you really want a untouched one with standard boares these are getting rare now just make sure you measure them first before parting with the hard earnd as been caught out by a trusted member not that he knew he had so I just wore it
13 October 2013, 08:46 PM
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No just a thought if you get stuck but be carefull you really want a untouched one with standard boares these are getting rare now just make sure you measure them first before parting with the hard earnd as been caught out by a trusted member not that he knew he had so I just wore it
13 October 2013, 09:28 PM
#30
As i said to you above, an open deck block is plenty man enough for 500+hp, i run it at 485hp daily, and 535hp when i put the meth in.
Has been like over 500hp for 4 years and over 20k miles.
I would stress yet again, the art is in the set up. 450-500 is too fast in a road going car to use effectively. the thing is in the figures it is ***** waving.
You would be way better off spending the enormous amount of cash on the chassis and set up of the right handling parts and the stopping power.
I really cannot stress enough the fact that in a well set up, properly sorted chassis arrangement that 450hp is just not useable on the road. EVER
Has been like over 500hp for 4 years and over 20k miles.
I would stress yet again, the art is in the set up. 450-500 is too fast in a road going car to use effectively. the thing is in the figures it is ***** waving.
You would be way better off spending the enormous amount of cash on the chassis and set up of the right handling parts and the stopping power.
I really cannot stress enough the fact that in a well set up, properly sorted chassis arrangement that 450hp is just not useable on the road. EVER