JonMc's Winter 2013 Re-work
#213
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It's been a couple of weeks since my last update and TBH not much has happened. Box of bits has gone off to Ryan for some work and paint and then this...
Bulkhead connector for my CTEK trickle charger
Gave the sterring wheel a clean as it had gone a little bit shiny
And then out with the hammer and chisel
A quick sweep up of the rubbish and a bit more...
The ultimate plan will be to remove the spare wheel well, weld a plate over it, remove the metalwork by the nearside rear arch and then paint it all. It will need a slight tweak to the pipework for the brakes and I'll need to weld some brackets for the diffuser onto the new flat floor, but nothing insurmountable for a seasoned welder - just need to fond one local
Bulkhead connector for my CTEK trickle charger
Gave the sterring wheel a clean as it had gone a little bit shiny
And then out with the hammer and chisel
A quick sweep up of the rubbish and a bit more...
The ultimate plan will be to remove the spare wheel well, weld a plate over it, remove the metalwork by the nearside rear arch and then paint it all. It will need a slight tweak to the pipework for the brakes and I'll need to weld some brackets for the diffuser onto the new flat floor, but nothing insurmountable for a seasoned welder - just need to fond one local
#214
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Looking nice, if you want to bring it up here ile get the boot floor welded in/up, or you could use alloy sheet bonded and riveted, I was thinking of that with mine but as I had steel sheet and the welder I took that option...
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Tempting offer mate, I have some under bonnet stuff needs doing too but I need to decide what to do with the inner wings - I may even redesign the FMIC pipework
#216
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The all too familiar hammer and chisel. flat floor is definately worth doing. Looks better from underneath when ya stick your head under, can see all the nice shiny stuff.
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May start in the cabin then
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I'll do a better job of fitting my battery and I'll be in a good place to fit a swirl pot if I get to that stage. Underneath I'll get the lateral arms powder coated, paint the hubs, drop the rear diff and get the cradle powder coated before painting the prop and driveshafts and refitting that lot - so one for a rainy day
I'll probably just coat the underside with a good underseal rather than paint it
I'll probably just coat the underside with a good underseal rather than paint it
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It's been over a month since my last update and TBH not much has happened - a load of stuff is still with Ryan awaiting painting and an update from there, but I have spent a few quid on some new suspension
Some nice shiny Meister-R stuff
I will also be getting my adjustable lateral arms powder coated and replacing a knocking rose joint. Still undecided whether to fit my freshly painted trailing arms and new bushes or to get a set of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1710110843...84.m1423.l2649
Some nice shiny Meister-R stuff
I will also be getting my adjustable lateral arms powder coated and replacing a knocking rose joint. Still undecided whether to fit my freshly painted trailing arms and new bushes or to get a set of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1710110843...84.m1423.l2649
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We did chat mate (I think) - I'm just waiting for my manifold and a few bits to come back from Ryan and then I'll strip down the current set-up and rebuild it ready for a remap
#231
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It's good for fast road and occasional track use, spring rates are front 6kg/mm, rear 5kg.mm but the rears are not simple to swap due to them having a specific rubber top mount to prevent knocking/banging. I expect that a replacement top-mount could be sourced to enable any 2" spring to be fitted
Bought here...https://www.scoobynet.com/group-buys...group-buy.html
Apparently they come set to about -50mm so I'm off to lower them a touch more via the hub mount adjustment before I fit them
Bought here...https://www.scoobynet.com/group-buys...group-buy.html
Apparently they come set to about -50mm so I'm off to lower them a touch more via the hub mount adjustment before I fit them
#234
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Cheers bud, you'll have to let me know how you mate gets on with the manifold - I need to order some gaskets and if he can join the TGV deletes and the main inlet that's one pair of gaskets less to buy
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The crank breather will go to the catch can and the inlet will be blanked. The PCV valve is removed and welded over on my manifold that's being worked by Ryan's mate
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Cheers mate, they seem well made and I have also tweeked the bottom brackets so it will be more like a 60mm drop when I fit them