bdog

I decided to put my small project on SN. Compared to the projects I've seen here it's quite modest, but it might be helpful for those wishing to have a LHD Classic Impreza Sti. Please, forgive my "broken" English.

My previous fun car was a Toyota Corolla AE86.
I bought a "not-so-good-looking" car, but the body was intact and almost rust free.


Then I made some changes:

Engine
smallport 4AGE;
reversed intake (to fit RWD);
8.9 4AGZE pistons + rings (new OEM);
Clevite 77 (but I bought and plan to put ACL Race) bearings;
waterpump (new OEM);
oilpump (new for 4AGZE OEM - the larger one);
ARP headstuds;
ARP rod bolts;

GT2560RR Ball Bearing turbo;
Chinese Turbo Header, Downpipe and Intercooler (no problems up to now);
PermaCool oil Relocation Kit;
PermaCool oil Thermostat;
Earl's Performance Steel braided hose for oil lines;
Earl's Performance aluminium hose ends;
Earl's Performance oil cooler;
Earl's Performance inline oil filter for the turbo;

KOYO alumium radiator;
AE82 el. fan with AE82 thermostat housing with fan actuator;
Samco silicon waterlines;

KN air filter;

ACT 6pad ceramic clutch with Heavy Duty pressure plate
Fidanza 212mm Flywheel

EFI
Megasquirt II Extra with V3 board
440 Supra injectors
Supra Fuel Pump
2zz-ge COPs


Suspension and Drivetrain:

DIY camber plates (i wanted steel - not alu);
KONI SPORT shocks
CoilOvers
Nissan S13 rear end with VLSD;
Cusco Rear Upper Camber arms;
Cusco Rear Toe Control arms;
Cusco Rear Upper bars;
PU bushings

Steering and Brakes:
Quaife QSR (rebuilt with new OEM components)
Mazda RX7 front brake calipers with brembo max discs for mini.
CompBrake hydraulic handbrake with brake bias valve;

and then I had that:


Then I decided that I want a Impreza STi and soon after I had it the AE86 was sold. This is the new owner having fun:

bdog

To my surprise STi's were only RHD until 2001 when the GD appeared. However, I needed a LHD car but really wanted an STi so I imported a front cut from Japan:


It was from a MY98 STi V4.

Then I found a rust-free Impreza:


and the project started .

First I stripped the half-cut:

Dash:


Wiring:


Engine:








Then I found rear end with 4.44 diff and soon the conversion began.

bdog

My purpose was to have a daily driver capable of delivering good time occasionally on the track. That would mean not-so-hard suspension, confortable seats, etc.

I started stripping the MY99 GL:




Pedalbox from USDM MY02 WRX


Engine in:






Then I realised that re-routing the wiring will be the worst part:




I had to combine MY99 GL and MY98 STi harnesses and make a new one. It took me over a week to understand the wiring diagrams posted on the web and make the new harness. The worst part was the dash - both dashes are quite different and the diagrams found on the web were not applicable so I had to follow the paths on the board and guess their function. However, at the end I had it working - engine, dash, fans, every bit...

bdog

After driving the car for 1000km I decided that it is time for suspension.

I needed something bearable so I chose Tein SS (UK Specs).



I had the coilovers installed. Then I wired EDFC - Tein could have used automotive connectors instead their crappy ones:




Then I friend of mine gave me Whiteline Rear 22mm adjustable ASB and I bought Perrin Mounts and Drop Links. I plan to buy also a front Whiteline ASB. I had them installed and now I was pretty happy with the car handling.

bdog

When I first started the engine I put Motul 8100 5w40 synthetic oil and new oil filter. Having driven for 200km I drained the oil, changed again the oil filter and put Motul 300V Crono 10w40 double ester oil.

To my surprise after 3000km I spun bearing. There were scratches on both the rod and the crankshaft so I bought new crank, rod, ACL Race bearings and other bits from US, and OEM gasket set from Scoobyclinic (great service, fast delivery). I printed the repair manual, put the engine appart and put it together. Not exactly a piece of cake but nothing too complicated. I'm not a car mechanic - i'm in banking software - so I enjoy every opportunity to get my hands dirty.

After, I re-built the engine and having driven it for 3000km I had some fun on the track:






I didn't have problems with the engine since then. Now I use Motul 300V competition 15w50 double ester oil.

bdog

Having driven the car for almost a year I decided that I want more power. Unfortunately the STi V4 ECU is not mappable, so I decided to use a standalone ECU.

My primary choices were:
1. Apexi Power FC;
2. Simtek
3. Hydra
4. Solaris
5. GEMS

Comparing the specs I decided that Solaris is the way to go. I contacted them and now I own a S6PNP ECS. That would be my toy for next several months.

bdog

Reading SN I realised that if I want more power I have to make some changes to the drivetrain and brakes. Having checked the prices for PPG, 6-speed boxes and Big Brake Kits I decided to buy a complete damaged car. The cost is comparable so i bought that babe:










It is USDM MY04 STi with 2.5l engine and the older 5x100 wheel pattern. It is still in US but within several months I'll have it here and then strip it. I prefer the GC8 so I'll sell the body parts in order to cover some of the expences. Bonuses with the car were APEXi exhaust and K&N Typhoon induction kit.

That's all about my project up to now. Thanks for your attention.

beef-on-the-bone

iTrader: (5)

that's a lot of work!!!!

bigarf

iTrader: (67)

lots of good work done there,great project.

chris270181

impressed. how long has it taken you so far?

bdog

Well, I started gathering parts in Dec 2008 and the STi was driveable in May 2009.

The actual conversion lasted only three weeks - 2 full days for the mechanical work, 10 evenings for the electrical, and 6-8 evenings for minor details - dash, seats, etc... However, there was a month of extensive reading before that. I found a lot of valuable information on SN.

seddomyster

iTrader: (9)

hope u post up alot more about this mate. i wouldnt have a clue where to start an if i got to seeing electrics on floor id of give up lol.

bdog

I felt the same way first time I removed the wiring harness from the half cut. Then I found STi V3 wiring diagram here: https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...w-updated.html and 1.6GL diagram on the rs25.com forums.

The job wasn't hard, one simply needs a little patience and finally to my surprise the car started on the first attempt.

When making RHD->LHD wiring harness conversion it is very important that both harnesses (e.g. RHD Sti and LHD GL) are from the same year. Subaru made some changes to function, color, etc along the years and that can make the job pain in the ...
Pre/post facelift cars are different in terms of wiring, MY99+ has different dash compared to MY98 despite the visual appearance, etc.

Next steps:
I plan to put Solaris/Syvecs ECS next week - there are a few bits to sort - to put ACT sensor, to find a Honda L1H1 Wideband connector...

And my dilemma: I like STi V4 engine very much - how it feels, how it revs - and now I am not sure whether I should keep it or put the USDM EJ257 from the blue one (with forged internals of course).

seddomyster

iTrader: (9)

put the 2.5 in mate. u will never know until u try. although some people prefer how the 2.0 revs. but forged is the reason an can go much bigger power than the v4 engine. low down torque for daily driving too

malcs scooby

iTrader: (5)

good work mate

bdog

Yesterday I plugged my Solaris S6PNP unit and I'm pleasantly surprised - the engine works smooth and nice, definitely better than OEM ECU. Next week I have to play with some minor issues like cold starting at -10C.

bdog

Finally a little update:

Yesterday I received Zeitronix ZT2 wideband AFR meter and I installed it today. I also put GM charge temperature sensor on the intercooler near the trottle body.

Solaris/Syvecs and ZT2


GM sensor

-Richard-

Great work

Silver Scooby Sport

iTrader: (15)

Great work that took some doing

You could do a dash board swap as well as the engine and have the new age dash in the classic plus swap all the drivetrain over and brakes as well.... new age car in a classic body

beef-on-the-bone

iTrader: (5)

on nasioc somewhere, i've seen a classic with a newage dash, looked great

bdog

Renner Motorsport did several RS->STi conversions - I guess one of them was on NASIOC:

Renner Motorsport | Facebook

However, I prefer the classic dash board.

Currently, I drive the car every day and I'm in love with Solaris/Syvecs. Inspired from the MS community and MegaLogViewer I spent some time and made an excel log analysis spreadsheet. It changes fuel and ignition cells based on target vs actual afr and knock from the logs.

ghostface

iTrader: (2)

a very interesting read,i am very impressed with the way you have got stuck in and undertaken such a task.
hats off to you my friend.

bdog

A little update:

FINALLY the donor car arrived from US (the cargo container was delayed in Spain for 3 weeks). Several photos:











The car is completely repairable and I feel a little bit sorry to dismantle it and cut the body. However, I like better my GC8!

bdog

I bought several bits needed for the conversion:

1. DCCDPro - I decided to try it first, then try Syvecs as DCCD controller and leave the one I like better.



2. Finally, after half a year searching I managed to find a 1 1/16 non ABS SVX brake master cylinder.

bdog

Finally started:





The car came with some goodies:

1. Apexi Exhaust;
2. K&N Typhoon induction kit
3. Perrin Crank Pulley





Unfortunately the impact has been a pretty good one so we had to cut the front. Apparently the engine was hit - exhaust pulley is to pieces. I'm just wondering what mess i'll find inside



The car came with red struts - i don't know whether they are OEM or aftermarket.



Fighting with some tougher nuts:





Junk:


Waiting for the next weekend:

bdog

Here are some photos of my friend's AE86 - a pretty nice one taking too much of his (and mine) time..





Under the scoobie








And a second one waiting for a Honda F20 engine

scoobyc

iTrader: (2)

Cracking thread mate. Wish i had the space to do this! Muchos Qudos. Subscribed.

riiidaa

iTrader: (2)

you are obviously a very capable guy, I wish you were in the UK, my GL needs an auto WRX transplant. lol

bdog

Thanks for the kind words!

Actually, it's just a hobby - my "real" job is providing software services to banks and telecoms

If you have enough time (and possibly a second car) you can start and slowly learn. All the information needed can be found on this forum. After sitting entire week on my desk it's real fun to compensate with some physical labor.

Cheers!

bdog

Finally an update!

I decided to use newage STi Front X-member and rear subframe. They went in pretty easy providing an extra inch to the track width. The transmission was a really tight fit and after starting the engine I found that it touches the body. We had to remove it, give the car "a little" banging with 8kg hammer and put it back. Everything seemed OK.

However, after alignment the tires started rubbing the fenders. I warmed the paint with a heat gun and then rolled the fenders using the good old baseball bat method.

The alignment setting are:

Front
Camber -2.5
Toe-out 1

Rear
Camber -1.75
Toe-in/out 0

The car feels very responsive. I wired DCCDPro using STi DCCD wheel and auto *****. DCCDPro auto mode works very nice. At first there is slight oversteer gradually becoming neutral and then going to a little bit of understeer - very easy to control slight powerslides at corner exits.

Last week I went to the track as visitor and a friend of mine took several photos:







I couple of days ago I put new tires and I love them - Hankook did great job on these:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....m=245WR7Z222XL

Next steps:

1. Taking EJ257 engine apart;
2. Playing with Flat Shift settings a little;
3. Ordering Whiteline ALK and CompBrake top hat (http://compbrake.co.uk/shop/product_...oducts_id=3664)