johngoulding

iTrader: (7)

sort of started to post this half way through my project bur eh .. who cares .
the car so far was goin pretty well untill the damn ice snow froze the cooling system due to not having enough af ,
the front mount was put on last week and i have noticed that on idle its really rough but not rough at all when accelarating ??? the car has the standard td05 on it just now as well as the sa ecu , dump valve is blocked of just now until the car gets back on the road , catless down pipe and aftermarket up-pipe .

i currently only have the downpipe on as far as the exhaust goes but i did notice also that there was no boost when taking it for a spin , the manifold has a small blow in it , dump valve when fitted does not release any pressure from the outlet , and a seriously rough idle after fitting the fmic.

basically i am tryin to cure the rough idle and the no boost problem ?
i know the turbo is not dead as i seen it workin on the previous car i assume the rough idle could be a vacum leak due to the yards of pipe work the fmic has or if the no boost situation could be a leaking flexi joint in the uppipe or because of the small blow in the manifold .

i have put this car together from scratch , gearbox engine bodywork etc and still have a way to go yet but want to get the engine running good , to an extent anyway where it will at least boost and idle correctly until i can get management and mapped .

car also makes spitting popping noises on the rough idle situation dont know if this is a lean / rich condition , also idle only moves slightly 100 rpm -200 rpm above 800 so not too much but does fluctuate ???

may have posted this in the wrong section or topic but it is a project planning substantial power gains on a budget but want to get things right any help will be greatly apreciated .

carpboy

iTrader: (2)

Maybe get a mechanic to look at it? Someone who knows what they are doing

johngoulding

iTrader: (7)

i know what im doing mate to a certain extent anyway
i cant be bothered taking lots of stuff of to put it all back on again , i seem to have managed getting the engine / gearbox / wiring / all done myself i only started having problems with the up-pipe and fmic so im basically askin if anyone has encountered these problems before , as i said im doing this on a budget so wtf would i take it to some mechanic for him to say it could be a number of things and 500 bucks later its eventually fixed , and fixed by something i could have done myself . am not askin how to do something ? im askin about problems im having and where other people have went down the best route with these problems as most of the ancillaries and parts are aftermarket and not standard . would u take ur car to a mechanic or ask on here first for a simple solution ???
cheers anyway mate but to spend all my time building the car to what it is now for someone to say take it to some one who knows what theyre doing is pretty heartbreaking lol i did have the car running good but until i fitted the fmic and downpipe , hence why am on here askin q's ?

carpboy

iTrader: (2)

People seem to forget these cars are highly tuned and mechanics are skilled for a reason. Running a scoob on a budget is asking for trouble. At least a skilled mechanic will have more of a idea then you will as to the trouble

super_ted

iTrader: (30)

if it was running good until you you fitted the front mount and/or downpipe, that would suggest that its one of those items causing the problem would it not? i would suggest checking all your ic pipework as a starting point. good luck.

johngoulding

iTrader: (7)

when i say a budget i mean as in buy a scorpion exhaust as opposed to a blitz nur , i do know the hassle with tuning these cars but when u r tryin to get it done with two kids , a wife nagging at you etc its nice to go out in the morning with a bit advice , no one knows everything , even asked stevie whitson (swm ) who is a sub guru in my opinion cover car this month on jap performance mag and even he said that he doesnt know what could be the problem he would need to check the car over , WHICH btw i would be doing tomorow morning as i said i was only askin if similar people have had this problem eg would u need to adjust tps to accomodate for the longer inlet tract etc , i havent even tried to fix this problem yet mate , but as i said , better me going out tomorrow morning with not much time on my hands due to christmas with the kids etc and have the knowledge of many and not just my own.

thanks to my last reply i had , sorry mate could remember ur login name , i know its a bit obvious that one of those are causing the problem but i know they are installed correctly and u know that i had the car running previous to installing these items , my main concern is throttle position sensor , idle control valve and things like that , even the maf , with the longer piping , larger bore cause an adverse affect in the function of the tps and the icv obviously because air volume/mass has changed from my standard setup also not known a turbocharged motor to lose boost completeley due to a small blow in the up-pipe as i have seen numerous classic imprezas with split up-pipes still running close to full boost ???

apexi ecu from andy f with the remap from him also is 800 for both ecu and map for a classic so with that being THE BUDGET CHOICE i will be going for that , (not everything has to be expensive and corners dont have to be cut , budget doesnt always mean made in china ) obviously before this gets done lots and lots of other things have to be addressed so help with the new install settings would be appreciated ?

johngoulding

iTrader: (7)

do you honestly think i would attempt to build a car from a shell up if i didnt have a clue ? i think not m8 , didnt spend 2 years at college and years since i was a kid to also working in a garage doing this to be told to take it to a garage ? obviously you dont know my background and i know my questions are a bit noobie sounding ( sorry btw ) i would build half a acr to let someone else finsh it so to speak , its more of an ego thing lol !! as i said mate THE KNOWLEDGE OF MANY IS BETTER THAN THE KNOWLEDGE OF ONE if u never try u never learn , and im not wastin money takin it to a garage until its finished as i said i was on a budget ( not a tight one but still a budget ) the only time it will be in there is when it comes to its mot , mapping etc , sorry mate but its a bit heartbreaking dedicating yourself for months on end to build a car on your own i might add , for someone to say take it to someone who knows

johngoulding

iTrader: (7)

just another thing carp boy how many times do u hear of people leaving garages sayin its worse than when it went in or they didnt fix the problem at all ? mechanics dont know everything mate , most of the time and i think most will agree that its mostly always trial and error even these garages use this exact same process obviously with a bit of know how , dont reply to the thread if u dont actualy have positive advice instead tell all your friends to take their cars to garages , as a matter of fact u should think of sponsoring garages u seem to trust them that much . there are garages the there are tuners ( good ones too , andy f , stevie w ) which i cant afford at the mo as my kids do need xmas pressies , tell ur friend when he says hes on a budget of 300 quid to get an exhaust for his scoob to take it to kwik fit , coz thats basically wot u just sed to me ??

carpboy

iTrader: (2)

No, what i was trying to tell you is a mechanic who has served 4 years training knows more then lots of people. I can put a car together but my son who is a mechanic by trade runs rings round me. If it was that easy then why would there be mechanics?

barnes_2k7

when its not boosting is it going into limp mode? if thats the case its prob a sensor i would of thought.

robimportwagon

my advice is to pressure test your induction/fmic system incl manifold rough idling is caused by an air leak between the turbo to the and or on the inlet manifold itself this is more than likely to be the cause of no boost as well. i encountered the same problems when i hand built my scoob and it turned out i had forgot to reconnect the brake servo hose its always something simple that catches people like us out no matter how good we are trust me i am a light and heavy vehicle technician qualified to btec2 and nvq3 advanced, with over ten years of vehicle expertise dont go to a garage its obvious you know your stuff, just backtrack on all the pipework incl vac tubing im 100% certain that its got an air leak somewhere you've just gotta find it, hope all goes well rob.

johngoulding

iTrader: (7)

cheers rob mate for the suport , think it must be a jealousy thing with carp boy lol he dusnt seem to think im capable of tying my own shoe laces

im out today workin on it , going to try and tinker about with the tps first off before i do anything as i maybe be getting the piping changed after i had a discusion with my mate last night .

also anyone with ideas in regards to custom engine mods , bodywork mods , dont be feared to put ur comments on as im looking to build a unique car and any styling mods that havent been tried id be glad 2 hear of

will be doing the reverse scoop maybe but thinking of a custom reversed scoop wrapped in carbon vinyl as there is not many carbon scoops out there with a different design they all seem to be very similar

will post pics as soon as i get the pic inbox in my phone emptied lol

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

That's a proper way to start a project thread with bitching about those posting on it.

He's made a couple of perfectly reasonable comments and you're all over him like some snotty kid.

Having done a couple of big project threads on here (the latest being a 600bhp Type R) I can tell you that the advice you'll get on here is invaluable. Don't bite the hand that feeds you before you start. I'm a complete amatuer and have never been a mechanic but I wanted to do it all my self. My last car was a 450bhp UK classic with a 2.5 fed by a rotated GT30R and I sh*t you not I could not have done it without the advice given on here.

So don't get all clever and bitch at those posting as the more knowledgeable on here will just think you're a tool and won't bother to help you. Good luck with it all anyway, and get some pictures up they make these threads all the more entertaining.

johngoulding

iTrader: (7)

i know what u mean mate , the thing is for me to spend my time getting this right and actually having the car running by myself all for it to go **** up

this happened after the snow/ice froze the coolant system inside the block i even went as far as taking every aftermarket part of the car today and replacing the stock parts , also replaced the coolant temp sensor , dv , intercooler and a lot of other things , also done the timing AGAIN!!! so currently the rad and everything is off again POS that it is !!!

im more worried that i have internal damage due to the ice now although i did notice that when i done the timing today that on initialy reving the engine there is less bog at low revs , it now seems to rev freely but i still have the misfiring on idle which completely disapears when the car is reved up ?

tomorow i may try starting the car without water in it for a minute as the misfire is always there regardless of the engine temp / running time and hopefully it still missfires as if the misfire goes away when starting the engine with no water then its obvious that the water is getting into the cylinders probably due to a bad head gasket due to the ice that built up in the block i am absolutely dreading that i have a crack in the block as it is a closed deck block i wanted to use and took me ages to find it , worse off that the crack may not be repairable or even noticable .

sorry for the hassle ppl but the problem started after my block froze and the car was running pretty good before this ?
also sorry bout the no pics situation , been spending that much time tryin to diagnose the problem that pics is the last thing on my mind .

sorry carp_boy for the mood swings mate

johngoulding

iTrader: (7)

so far i can confirm the following has been returned to standard and also has been diagnosed :

tps adjusted
icv adjusted
coolant temp sensor replaced
fan switch ( not relevant to idle misfire )
egt sensor pluged back in
maf cleaned
test mode to check solenoid ok
turbo was a bit stiff when i manualy turned it so the no boost situation is probably covered although another turbo is needed
the spark plugs or coil packs have not been checked yet
it was -15 when this all happened with the misfires so god knows whats damaged ?
timing belt re-done , reved freely after but still realy loud popping on idle
slight blow in the ex manifold
if it is not any the above that i have not done yet then obviously the damge has been caused due to the car freezing all over the place

had my mate steven helping me who has been a mech for longer than i can remember and he also is really good with these and i decided that it was enough for 1 day as we never realy made much progress , boxing day will be checking the plugs and packs but theres no way they could be causing a miss this LOUD and its a really fast missfire not just the ocasional pop ?

johngoulding

iTrader: (7)

also the front mount has been removed and i am also planning on replacing the aftermarket up-pipe with the standard item also as there will be no need for an up-pipe of the bore i have (2.5 inch)

Kenny.S

I'm not sure on the rest of your problems but you want definately want to get rid of that up-pipe, 2.5 inch bore is far too big for a std position turbo. It will cost you spool up and gain you nothing.
A 2 inch up-pipe is fine for circa 550-600bhp possibly more before you need to go bigger.

Kenny

johngoulding

iTrader: (7)

engine compresion check was done this morning and all seems ok that way no contaminants in the oil or water also emptied the water early this morning but no change so obviously the engine itself is fine ?

will need to check the pressure regulator as i habe a walboro 255 which i think may be the problem , i will pull the vac line from the engine to see if theres fuel inside as i have heard that this is a common prob when having standard reg with aftermarket fuel pump ? the rubber seal in the header tank started leaking due to the cold weather so i dont see why the fuel reg rubber diaphram is also knackered which would cause idle problems and bogging/missing due to there being a rich condition with the diaphram not moving .

i hope i am right this time because i know the engines ok , turbos knackered though which is a dull one so at least my problems might be sorted soon although this project may have to come to an end if i cant get it done in time as this is interfeering with family life at the moment and the wifes just lost her mum now her nanas not to good either so...

i hope to get this up and running soon , otherwise there will have to be a big SALE as you all know family has to come first

may be putting things up for sale soon also , lots of goodies

johngoulding

iTrader: (7)

checked the regulator and i was right swpped it and problem cured although the car is up for breaking now as a massive argument with the wife and lack of funds forces sale anyone interested hit the private for sale look for username if interested thanks every 1 for all your help , was nearly in tears lol love my car but sadly after a lot of time spent this project is coming to an end

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Great project all 19 posts of it!!

johngoulding

iTrader: (7)

lol

carpboy

iTrader: (2)

johngoulding

iTrader: (7)

allthough a short prject thread lol ive been doing it for months got it fixed eventually but for prsnal reasons has come to an end bit s%*t really .
thanks to every 1 though .