to FORGE or not to FORGE,the later isnt the option
#1
to FORGE or not to FORGE,the later isnt the option
ok where do i start,havent had the car on the road for about two months now,as it started running on three cylinders.what with christmas and work,havent had time to do much,but today it all started.
first of all nice big garage is needed.
then open bonnet and start scratching head
battery out
top mount off
airbox and maf sensor off
little handed mate for those hard to reach places
radiator out
next job alternator and aircon pump i think lol
and there they were gone
thats it for now almost ready to come out apart from engine mountings,need to get underneath to do that.
ceri
first of all nice big garage is needed.
then open bonnet and start scratching head
battery out
top mount off
airbox and maf sensor off
little handed mate for those hard to reach places
radiator out
next job alternator and aircon pump i think lol
and there they were gone
thats it for now almost ready to come out apart from engine mountings,need to get underneath to do that.
ceri
#5
ok took engine out today with the help of andrew davies of S W MOTORSPORT ex promax mechanic
and his shiny new hoist
elbow versus slam panel(slam panel won)
then back to the workshop
bits every where
then got the head off and found this
it appears to be missing a circlip allowing the gudgeon pin to slip out of the piston(small ends) and damaged the block.
also valve damage
and damage to piston
so not a happy chappy,any engine builders,who wish to do so please leave some feed back,it would be very much appreciated.
when i went to see the guy who built it(before stripping it myself) to tell him something wasnt right,he laughed and said there was no warranty,not impressed by that answer,surelly this is due to workmanship????
also the rings are meant to be gaped(forgot picture sorry)there not the ring gaps are pretty much over lapping each other with in about 5 to 10 ml
thanks for looking
ceri
and his shiny new hoist
elbow versus slam panel(slam panel won)
then back to the workshop
bits every where
then got the head off and found this
it appears to be missing a circlip allowing the gudgeon pin to slip out of the piston(small ends) and damaged the block.
also valve damage
and damage to piston
so not a happy chappy,any engine builders,who wish to do so please leave some feed back,it would be very much appreciated.
when i went to see the guy who built it(before stripping it myself) to tell him something wasnt right,he laughed and said there was no warranty,not impressed by that answer,surelly this is due to workmanship????
also the rings are meant to be gaped(forgot picture sorry)there not the ring gaps are pretty much over lapping each other with in about 5 to 10 ml
thanks for looking
ceri
Last edited by drive; 14 January 2009 at 02:48 PM. Reason: spelling correction
#6
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how old was the engine build? ...I think if i was recent I'd be popping around to the builder and explaining in a bit more detail, exactly how he was gonna be helping out!
.......Shirley the rings cant be overlapping??????????
.......Shirley the rings cant be overlapping??????????
#7
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i wouldn't have thought that the rings would go in if they were over lapping, on my 2.5 i have gapped the rings to 0.019" - top, 0.017" second and 0.010" for the oil rings, wich as you can see is not a particuarly big gap at all.
The guy who built it originally couldn't have put the c-clip in properly, they don't usually fall out....
The guy who built it originally couldn't have put the c-clip in properly, they don't usually fall out....
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#9
the engine is now about 18 months old but covered only 12,000 miles,havent had a chance to get back there yet no transport.did go back once or twice with concerns about it rattling its nuts off on start up (ie)cold,then getting quieter when the engine gets up to temperature,was told STI's do this (have read this else where since)but would say,that was not the case in this instance.also its not an STI,its log booked as a WRX,and also that lovely little plate on the inner wing confirms it a wrx.(didnt have the log book when i bought it as the guy forgot to drop it down,bought the car off someone through someone)not as he told me the guy who brought it in obviously didnt know one car from another.
when i said the the ring gaps were over lapping,i litterally meant the gaps not the rings.(the rings aren't touching just to clear this up)arent the gaps,meant to be at least quater of a turn or half a turn away from each other.
ceri
when i said the the ring gaps were over lapping,i litterally meant the gaps not the rings.(the rings aren't touching just to clear this up)arent the gaps,meant to be at least quater of a turn or half a turn away from each other.
ceri
#11
ok managed to split the block and it gets worse,on stripping found i had some end float(crank moving back and fore)also found the circlip in the sump
also the centre thrust bearing in hell of a state also
because of the crank moving backwards and forwards this is the damage to the centre thrust washer/bearings
this next one shows the wear,you cant see the oil journals/little grooves
spoken to the engine builder and he is claiming that its nothing to do with how he built the engine or the materials that he used,and that i was lucky to get 12,000 miles out of it,as he has engines back after 2,000 miles for a refresh,surely if you spent £2,500 on a rebuilt engine you would expect it to last longer than 2,000 miles????
ceri
also the centre thrust bearing in hell of a state also
because of the crank moving backwards and forwards this is the damage to the centre thrust washer/bearings
this next one shows the wear,you cant see the oil journals/little grooves
spoken to the engine builder and he is claiming that its nothing to do with how he built the engine or the materials that he used,and that i was lucky to get 12,000 miles out of it,as he has engines back after 2,000 miles for a refresh,surely if you spent £2,500 on a rebuilt engine you would expect it to last longer than 2,000 miles????
ceri
#12
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spoken to the engine builder and he is claiming that its nothing to do with how he built the engine or the materials that he used,and that i was lucky to get 12,000 miles out of it,as he has engines back after 2,000 miles for a refresh,surely if you spent £2,500 on a rebuilt engine you would expect it to last longer than 2,000 miles????
ceri
ceri
dosent say much for the builder if hes expecting blocks back in after 2K TBH
Last edited by RA Dunk; 09 February 2009 at 01:46 AM.
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BTTT
who built your engine ? think its time to expose they so called engine builder
after a full rebuild you should be looking at at least 50k + its all new init .
NAME AND SHAME -
Good luck with the rebuild .
after a full rebuild you should be looking at at least 50k + its all new init .
NAME AND SHAME -
Good luck with the rebuild .
#17
ok what with having end float on the crank,the block is knackered so im after an engine,any one anywhere please cheap lol
i know of one out of a wrx wagon so im assuming thats an import are these 240 bhp thanks in advance
ceri
i know of one out of a wrx wagon so im assuming thats an import are these 240 bhp thanks in advance
ceri
Last edited by drive; 02 March 2009 at 05:11 PM.
#18
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WRX wagons were up to 250 in v4 but around 220-240 otherwise. The engines are basically the same with smaller UK style MAFs and injectors. The power limit is basically in those components and the map. Internally they're the same lump as the WRX saloons.
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