GC8

As title: Im looking for suggestions for a type/brand of paint to use to refinish the inside of a prepared hillclimb car. The last time that I prepared a competition car, when I had more money than sense, I had the whole interior and the cage painted professionally: this time Im doing it myself. Im looking for a balance between ease of application and a decent and durable finish. Both floors will be aluminium so it doesnt have to be super-hard-wearing, but I dont want it to chip off too easily either. A self-etching product that will cover in one (or two at most) coats would be ideal...

Simon

GC8

I forgot to mention that Im looking for white...

Shark Man

Sorry Simon, I'm at abit of a loss on anything in particular that comes to mind that would be the perfect solution.

Barring the obvious like Hammerite (although that won't work on aluminium without a primer, plus from experience I find it works best on any bare matal if its etched primed first anyway).

Most suitable product I guess is whatever they use to paint construction/agricultural plant. Which will be a enamal or polyurethane product. But AFAIK they do require priming bare metal. So won't be a one-step product.

GC8

The alloy will be over the painted floor/sill/tunnel, not actually painted: that wasnt clear, sorry. Can you apply acid etch primer with a brush? If so I suppose that I will prime it and use white machine paint, if its available in white.

Shark Man

Yes you can apply etch primer by brush.

Should be able to get white in pretty much any paint type under the sun, as long as its in stock.

rob4620

I have just done this exact same thing to my hillclimber, after removing the sound proofing etc. and fitting weld in cage.

The finish comes from the prep, the more you do the better it looks.

I wouldn't advise you to use a brush as we did a test area and it looked really bad.

I tried hammerite smooth in a can and it was awful.

We used Plasticote spray cans in the end, 3 coats of white primer and 2/3 coats of white gloss enamel, we got through 20+ cans at £7 each. We finished it off with Plasticote clear acrylic which made it look much better.

It looked really good when we had finished but now after 6 events it already looks tired, if I did it again I would suck it up and get it done professionaly, do it once and do it right.

You can see pics here. https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...roject-42.html

GC8

Thanks Rob. Im not certain that Im fitting a roll cage yet though, certainly not from the outset, so it doesnt have to look quite as smart as yours. For £140, wouldnt it have been easier and cheaper to get a local bodyshop to paint on your prep?

Simon

V4JDMSTi

iTrader: (2)

there is an enamel that can be brushed / rollered on. a lot of vw beetle / bus owners use it. comes in a huge range of colours. will try to find a link. will be after some red for my ra.

eta - will probably be best to primer first though.

GC8

Sounds promising.....

GC8

Is it this Jenolite product?

GC8

Colour chart

GC8

#537 or #539 will be closest to Vivian Red, I think...

V4JDMSTi

iTrader: (2)

that's the stuff. pretty cheap too. wouldn't use it on the outside of my scoob, but for the inside i think it'll be pretty hard wearing and do the job nicely.

Shark Man

Sounds a bit like good 'ol Tekaloid Good stuff, took foofin ages to dry. Don't think it exists anymore (well, not under the Tekaloid brand anyway)


The perfect stuff would be whatever the military used to paint my Landrover with 39 years ago; Somewhere under the layers of paint is military green enamal. I know this as I had an inccident with the brake master cylinder which resulted in it leaking fluid all over the front wing;

Cue 30years worth and 3/4 layers of manky paint rapidly pealing off...except what was on the bottom, the original enamal, still as perfect as the day it was applied

Talking about the Landy; I sprayed the interior of that with Cellulose (beige with matt toner). And its held up fairly well against the mud, rigger boots and jetwashing - considering its just one coat of etch primer and one top coat. All I did was remove any remaining flaking paint with a wire wheel fitted to the grinder, key it with a scotch pad and degrease it. I never intended it to last, as it was just left over paint dregs.

rob4620

Got quoted much more than that from several places, the full grp n weld in cage has some serious tubing and requires a lot of paint. We didn't intend to use that much paint it just needed more and more.

My bro has bought a proper sprayer set up and prep tools for his car so this winter we are going to do it again and right.