FB Tuning

iTrader: (30)

My plan is to build a new engine for my other half’s MY00 UK turbo.



I’m looking to attain a reliable 400hp with as much torque as I can get.

The car is a daily driver, so obviously needs to remain ‘driveable’ on the road, and at the same time retain a certain amount of reliability.



The engine will be based around a delivery mileage STi8 UK short motor (with forged pistons), and a set of P1 cams and valve train.



The build is being done on a fairly tight budget and costs are being kept in check by doing all the assembly and fitting work myself.



Having started to source some of the parts, I have quickly realised that it would be very easy to let the spending spiral dramatically.

Because the build is being based around a stock STi bottom end and semi closed deck block, I don’t want to pump too much money into all the remaining parts and supporting mods. - At the same time, I realise the importance of not cutting corners and compromising the durability and reliability of the completed engine.



Over the last 2 years of ownership, the car has slowly been modified to put in place most of the required supporting mods for this level of tune.





TD05 – 16g

Walboro 255 l/h pump

FSE 1:1 Regulator

Parallel Fuel Rails

MRT Inlet Pipe

K&N Cone Filter

Hybrid FMIC

STi8 Jap gearbox

PFC & Datalogit

Techedge Wideband Kit

AVC-R Boost Controller

I had originally intended to just bolt on the slightly larger turbo to the UK engine, but having given it some thought, decided to strengthen up the motor a bit first.



If all goes to plan, I will have a complete engine assembled on the bench, ready to just drop straight in when the old engine gets pulled out.



So far, I have bought the following parts…



STi8 short motor

P1 valve train and cams

MD321 (P18) Hybrid turbo

Tubular Manifold and solid up pipe

100m of exhaust wrap (for the headers and FMIC pipe work)

740 injectors

Inlet Manifold Spacers

ARP Head studs

OE Head gaskets
Cambelt, tensioner and idlers


There are lots of parts I still need to buy/acquire – I’ll be sorting them out over the next few weeks, once my wallet has had a chance to recover from “Round 1” of spending.





My first plan of attack is to sort out the cylinder heads.



I need to source a couple of Phase2 castings, and get them crack and flow tested, and have the seats recut.



I won’t be using the standard 2 piece Sti valves, as I am concerned about their apparent weaknesses.

Next week, I intend to visit “G&S Valves” in Godalming to source some one piece nimonic vales and replacement guides.





I’ll update the thread with some pictures in the next couple of days J

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

Looks good and we need pictures of everything

As for the spec, I'm not sure the MD321 will do the business. Why not get a 20g?

Forget the FSE and get an SX instead.

F

FB Tuning

iTrader: (30)

Here's a few pics of some of the stuff i've already collected

STi8 Short Motor 1
STi8 Short Motor 2
Hybrid turbo
Hybrid turbo 2
Headers
Head Studs
740s and Nissan Connectors
Roger Clarke Oil Pump
Head Gaskets
Exhaust Wrap + Lockwire
Turbo+Manifold Gaskets


Approx. spending to date - £2950 - Ouch! - If anyone's got anything useful they'd like to donate it would be much appreciated, as i'm almost cleared out

Floyd - I didn't really fancy a 20g for a few reasons...

From what i have seen and read, they seem to suffer with bad compressor surge on spoolup, made worse by the use of a wide inlet pipe.
Approx 3/4 of the 16g's I've bought,sold or ported have had cracking around the exhaust housing in the groove where the band clamps it to the core. A couple of them have been blowing exhaust gas out of this crack
I presume many of the 20g's suffer the same fate?
Lots of people have gone this 'tried and tested' route, and i fancied having a go with something slightly different

I'm assured by Mark Aigin that this unit should be good for somewhere in the region of 420 fwhp with the correct supporting mods.

I've had an FSE on the car for 2 years without experiencing any problems - running 3.3Bar static and 1.6 bar of boost - I've got a wideband permenantly in the car, so if it plays up i should notice it leaning out (hopefully ) - If it breaks, I'll replace it with an SX



I've also bought an H&S 3" system to replace the 2.5 one - Looks nice, but needs some tidying up with the die grinder around the flanges

Thanks to Carl Davey for suppying some very tidy inlet manifold spacers

A spare set of phase2 fuel rails have been sent to Mef for the addition of 6AN fittings - The local hose supplier 'Spectrum Hoses' will be supplying the lines and swaged fittings.

I've been given a brand new Draper Engine Stand to build the engine on - Just need to assemble the thing, and find somewhere for it to live in the garage

Next week, i'll try to find a suitable phase 2 donor engine at work, to raid for a sump, oil pickup,dipstick tube, waterpipes, cambelt covers, coolant crosspipe etc

Also got to go to the local main dealer for O-rings, Inlet Manifold Gaskets, Threebond etc.

I haven't decided what to do about camshaft sprockets yet - Can anyone recommend an adjustable direct fit replacement for phase 2 camshafts?

More to follow.......

FB Tuning

iTrader: (30)

Got the fuel rails back from Mef last week, and i've been and collected all the necessary Earls fittings and Goodrige hose today....

fuel rails and anodised fittings

A bit pricey, but looks good

The only way i could see to get from the soild OE fuel line on the passenger side of the bulkhead, to -6 Goodrige hose was to have this barbed 8mm fitting swaged onto the Goodrige hose.
I'll use a small length of the OE rubber hose and a couple of the standard clips to join it

I now need to cut the hose to the correct lengrths and assemble the lines on the spare inlet manifold, before stripping it down and painting it Red, "STI style"

Last weekend, I've also fitted the H&S 3" system, and some STi6 dampers with Eibach springs.

Alignment and camber was adjusted today - The car is a bit lower now and rides quite a bit firmer. - Speedhumps need to be negotiated a bit more carefully now !

I've managed to source a pair of low mileage Phase2 UK heads from work.

New 1 piece stainless valves, 3 angled seat cutting, 30 degree backcut and head porting job are the next jobs to be undertaken

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

I like the bling fuel rails

F

ZEN Performance

Do you really want to spend £800 on valves?

I would be interested to know how you get on at G&S (are you buying 10 sets??) but there are certainly cheaper alternatives for nickel based valves. I can possibly do you a deal on heads and valves

Paul