TyPe~~R

I've had my version 3 MY97 STI Type r for 4 years now. I was trying to sell her for the last 6 months but decided that it was a better car than what I was looking to replace her with, and the DCCD, superb handleing and the sheer performance is a good reason to keep the beloved scoob.

So in short i've decided to get a bit more power out of her in a twin staged upgrade, the first will be done over the next month or two, the second stage in about 2 years when i've saved up or robbed a bank or two lol.
So far my Type R is running a full decat system, apexi induction and boost contoller unmapped but Rollerd to 310BHP 280ft/Lb on Optimax and booster
Its used as a weekend road demon, I will do the occiasional track day, possibly a drag run, but bacically the car will not be subjected to big stresses for long periods of time i.e track use. The millage is 46K reguly serviced and looked after. The first stage will be mainly just to get the most power with the standard Gearbox and Engine Internalls, I've heard the gearbox will be fine on just under 400ft/lb if your carefull on Launch's etc..

Stage1- Mainly bolt on's, engine and Drivetrain standard {now}
Stage2- New biult engine and Drivetrain, GT series turbo etc..{in 2Years time}

-----------------------------------STAGE 1------------------------------
- AndyF Td05/06 20G
550cc Injectors
Walbro 255 Pump
GT Spec Hybrid FMIC
FSE Fuel Reg
Apexi Power air filter
HKS Downpipe
Magnex Center
Afterburner Vortex Backbox
Ported and wrapped O/E Headers
ZeroSprorts staright inlet tube
HKS EVC4 Boost Controller
Exceedy Organic Clutch {GB just gone one}
Apexi PFC mapped by AndyF

Will this be good for 400x400 or a little under, Is there anything I have neglected to mention or left of the list. AndyF is quite far from me as I live in Bristol so any other mapper or ECU set up wouldl be good to compare, bearing in mind i'm trying to keep the cost down, APFC mapped with commander and mapped at my house is just over one Grand. Ideally i'd like a few toys, maybe Anti lag or something


----------------------------------STAGE 2-------------------------
really a pipe dream at the moment , but It will hopefully consist of some of the parts listed above and

Axis 2.33 biult engine
Garrett GT30r or bigger, ext w/gate, custom down/up pipe
Siutable Drivtrain
Reversed inlet manifold
Bigger injectors
Remap

Are there any part changes to the stage1 list that would be benneficail to any future mods like stage2 550BHP, I dont really want to waste money on parts which are not needed at the moment but if I'm replacing something maybe I can kill two birds with one stone if u get me.

Any help would be great, I've read so much on here and on 22b i need to put it all into good use and join the big boys lol.

Thanks Alex

911

To make 400 x 400 Stage one you will need something better?
My engine is very similar spec to your plan and has made on different rollers
407 x 340 and 370 x 320..

Good luck!

Graham.

vulnax999

iTrader: (7)

One item you can carry over is a full 3" downpipe and exhaust system, like the Revolution.
Consider better tubular steel headers & up-pipe, lagged, if you want big power now and later, but may lose a little spool up.
Apexi PFC is up to it and useful later on, when remapped. Suggest an AVCR boost controller, mapped, for best results.
Cooler plugs ( 7b's for example ), parallel fuel feed mod for even fuel distribution.
Lightweight pullies and lighter weight flywheel would help as long as you get the hang of drag starts if that's your thing.

Enjoy!

TyPe~~R

Thats usefull, thanks. One thing I did forget were the plugs. I've got a Magnex Up pipe on at the moment, but i'm not too keen on loosing the rumble of the standard headers, so I thought Goibg for ported would help at least. I do plan to get some lighter pulleys over time, but not right now.

-----------What do you think it should make power wise?-----------------

911

Results may depend on if the turbo will hold it's boost pressure well into the rev band.
My 20g gives about 1.2 at 4000 and 1.4/1.42 at 6000 then starts to tail off to 1.1 at 7000.
If you can keep 1.4 at 6500+ then 400 x 340 is on, maybe 400 x 380 (Vulnax?)

Thinking about the AVCR:

I have a 3 port sol on my engine to the Apexi, Vulnax, do you think an AVCR would get the boost to stay at 1.4 deeper into the rev band?

As said before, find a rolling road near you, and have all changes measured on the same RR. They all vary!

Graham.

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

Graham: Might be worth toying with a Dawes to see if will hold boost better than the 3-port. Probably best to check with Andy 1st though.

Alex: Figures for the 20g do vary a fair bit, so its hard for people to say. I would ditch the FSE in favour of a SX reg

AlanG

Does the Apexi PFC not do boost control? If it does, why the need for an Apexi AVC-R?


Can't think why you'd need another Apexi product to control boost if the Apexi ecu can do it.
If the ecu can control the boost and its known that adding an AVCR can give better "boost retention", then i would suggest you get the Apexi 3 port solenoid than the complete AVCR kit and have the ecu mapped with the better 3 port solenoid.

john banks

Graham, I think there is a limit with a given turbo size and octane on a given engine design. Even if you hold more boost at the top you may well struggle for 400 BHP on every dyno on a Subaru engine with Optimax. You could tighten the wastegate/strengthen the actuator and force it to produce more boost, and in the TD05H-20G's case reach the limit of the turbine wheel that can be supported without excessive fuel dumping/retarding ignition/increasing EGTs/losing power. Usually with top end boost problems, the exhaust back pressure is blowing the wastegate open. I think it should usually be allowed to do so as otherwise you end up with Mr Creosote.

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

The Apexi PFC only controls the boost via a target and a duty (plus the usual internal closed loop boost adjustment).. but the AVC-R allows rpm specific adjustment of target boost and duty as well as gear dependent duty adjustment etc..

Depends what you want and whether you have boost related problems you are trying to over come.

Simon

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

I'd want 1.4bar sooner than 6000rpm and it held to about 6000rpm and then tailed off to redline etc.. is it boosting to 1.2bar @ 4000 due to the time it takes to boost or so it doesnt creap too much at the top?

AlanG

Thanks Simon.


Depending on inlet pipe diameter it might be held to that boost to stop compressor surge?

TyPe~~R

Will I get buy with a FSE reg for now, or is it best not too use one full stop.?

911

TypeR:
When i was doing my engine last winter (my first Impreza engine mod) I was told the FSE might be unreliable and to go for quality and use the SX. Got a new one for about £40 more (AS Performance) so not such a problem.
''you buy quality once''

My interest in the boost side is to see if I can squeeze the very most from my current set-up. The only motive is to try to get closer to the EVO in my class by any legal means. That car has about 450 x 400 and an ultra short gearbox, and is significantly more accellerative than my Sti as I went out in it on the road last saturday.
Ballistic.

I really want to avoid the cost of a 2.5/6 speeder to get the last 1 to 1.5 seconds out of a hill climb, (law of diminishing returns well underway).
I have already spaced the actuator on the 20g to clamp the gate tighter and the downpipe/system is 3'' but quite old (restrictive back box?).

I feel I have now clogged-up this thread and I'm sorry for that, so will start another on this subject as I value everyone's input.

Graham.

TyPe~~R

dont worry bout it mate, its all helpfull info. I was trying to save a bit of money and got hold of used FSE but I think I may change it. Dont want it to run lean or annything

911

One thing the Impreza engine is not is a lean burn engine.
Be safe and buy a new SX.
Sleep easy at night!

Graham

TyPe~~R

Do you have to set them up i.e set the running pressure or are they just to plump into the fuel feed

911

No, need setting to right pressure, about 3 bar atmo. will do it. This would be set when car is mapped.
Graham.

stevebt

iTrader: (8)

andy's td05/06 is enough to break your gearbox, since you are contemplating a serious build why not add some better parts on your 1st thoughts so they dont have to be changed again injectors and the fse reg being the obvious one, but you get my point

TyPe~~R

Stevebt- I was hoping to run the gearbox and be carefull with it, untill it breakes. then I would look at the replacement options. Ill definatley swap the FSE for an SX or aeromotive

911

Take heed of the box warning.
Mine has survived all manner of thrashings, but 2nd is a bit notchy, and it 'humms' a bit more than it did about 2 years ago...
A broken box is a sad thing and so much work to replace on your own in a simple garage with a jack.
Graham.

It is best to do a heavy hit in one go as I (think) I did, but 12 month on what I did was very mecano-ish and simple, I'm almost embarrased at the depth of the thread now!

Go for it

TyPe~~R

911 you have a v3 type r dont you?

911

No.
It is a facelift my 1997 Sti V3, now well got at but too slow to get reliable 1st in class results. Loads of seconds, and a few firsts, but....

400 BHP is average for the class!

Graham.

TyPe~~R

What are the exact spark plugs I should be using for this?

martyp1

Graham,sorry to but in .Just got some gauges fitted to my RCM moded p1
In second and third gear my boost hits 1.42 from 4500 to 6500 then stays at 1.3 from 6500 to 7500 this is using the gt35 p18 been told its between 370 and 380 bhp simular to your power
martin

powercrazed

I think most people use NGK PFR7B plugs on an sti or a modded engine.

Nathan

TyPe~~R

Just to add, im getting a re map with the above parts now fitted. I'll post as soon as I have a drive