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What is involved in bulding a 2.33 400+ x 380+ motor?

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Old 30 May 2005, 04:16 PM
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911
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Question What is involved in bulding a 2.33 400+ x 380+ motor?

Feeling a bit bored so thinking about Xmas (!) and changes to the Sti V3 hillclimber known to a few of you on here by now.

My engine is running a treat, but I need some more go for next yer. 400 bhp is very average in the class right now.
1
2.5
Obvious route to take, would do it Dyney style but breaking the 2 litre and build onto a USA 2.5 out of the box, no messing with pistons etc.
Transfer all my externals over and have a 400x400 engine.
2
2.33
Not really sure what is involved here. Is it a DIY engine based on a 2 litre + 2,5 crank or what?
Is it as economical to build as a simple 2.5 as above?
What output is to be expected (20g/Gruppe S headers/Apexi etc)

Crawford (?) in the USA do a short engine 2.33, at what price?

Part of the Xmas deal will be a 6 speeder (Jap Sti spec)

Need to get thinking about costs and complexity to prepare the way to convince the wife.

Took her to see Santa Pod for the first time for her yesterday, AA fueller cut 308 in 4.8 sec, 60 foot marker in 0.8 secs....
She thought it more exciting than hill climbing!

Anyway, any thoughts/real world advice please?

Graham.
Old 30 May 2005, 04:36 PM
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Big Bear
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2.33 uses a 2.2 bock and a 2.5 crank
Old 30 May 2005, 05:11 PM
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Pavlo
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for your purposes I think a 2.5 with aftermarket pistons would be better. You're after more torque, throttle response and not necessarily looking to give it the abuse a fully sorted 2.33 would be up to.

I would go for 2.5 and perhaps a touch bigger on the turbo, perhaps a 20g with td06h turbine, or a "green" style turbo with garrett 50trim TO4 wheel.

For 2.5 perhaps an uprated 5 speed would be the better deal, allow you to concerntrate more on driving the hill, less on changing gear. If it was a circuit car (more open and flowing than typical hill) then 6 speed would be nice I think.

Paul
Old 30 May 2005, 05:56 PM
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Tim W
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Crawford's site

Quirt mentioned yesterday that there are virtually no new EJ22T closed deck 2.2's available in the States/Canada (the only markets that a car fitted with this engine was sold in) which is going to make sourcing a 'new' 2.33 interesting (he lists them as 2.4 litre engines incidentally). The alternative to a EJ22T block is to have the liners removed from a closed deck EJ20 block and then fitted with larger bore liners (from a diesel engine) instead, it's not cheap, but if there bain't be any EJ22T's available at sensible money it's probably going to be the only option...or there is slieving down an EJ257 although there'll be no oil squirters

If my EJ257 pistons fail I might be tempted to give the slieving down idea a go

Last edited by Tim W; 30 May 2005 at 06:02 PM.
Old 30 May 2005, 07:07 PM
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911
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Cool

Thanks for the feed back everyone.
Reliability is very important during the hill climb season, you cant afford a serious break (and do a full time job!)
Paul, I guess you are right, but I was reading elsewhere on Snet that a 2.5 with a 'Forrest 20g' is reasonably lag free. I don't want to go swopping turbos etc and the GT30 (?) several of you were running in SSO adds to the lag issue?
The 2.33 sounded technically interesting compared to the 2.5, but a 2.5 will be the right way I'm sure.
I do need to get serious about the box first.
I took a look at Zen's web site ( ) and the gearsets there(yes, I know the connection) and a synchro box sounds good as long as it can take the torque from a 400x400.
Do you run what you sell Paul?

Remember I run the Sti on the road too.
I think a box installation would be about £300 on a loose trans?

At the risk of really boring you all is the common 2.5 from the USA an EJ 257?

Graham.
Old 30 May 2005, 07:18 PM
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Tim W
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Graham, Paul and Mark were running very similar gearboxes at SSO, both built by Paul. Seeing as both cars were in the final I think it's safe to say they were working quite well

The US 2.5 STi engine is indeed the EJ257
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