HorneSTIR

Evening folks, hope all is well with you. This is my first post here, hopefully won't break any rules.

I am...conflicted. You lucky few can help.

I've owned my STI Type R now for about 5 months and in that time I thoroughly enjoyed driving her. Must admit I rarely have the dccd on anything other than open but I'm not brave enough yet to fiddle with a 16 year old rotational dial. I tried this once on a 30 year old record player I borrowed from my dad and broke it. That was an expensive fix and I had a sore lug for weeks.

So I have a phobia regarding Old Japanese **** twiddling.

I then:
Replaced the rear diff bearing,
Replaced the knock sensor, paid someone to replace my timing belt pulleys and water pump... Who then told me that the other ones looked really quite new. Maybe even a couple of months old... AWWWWW MAAAAAN At that point I remembered the seller telling me he had done its 80k service with timing belt and gibbons. (Curse you memory, you fail me, Agaaaain)
I then succssfully broke her due to a surprise lack of oil pressure when in full chap at around 8k rpm a bearing and rod decided they didn't want to be with one another any more and split up. They are still staying in the same house but no longer talking. She gets the house, he gets the dog... And baggage. Seems amicable enough.

Non Waffle:

I am at that point where I don't have £5000 for a engine rebuild due to wife baby and house commitments but could get that saved up in 2 years. Currently my options are

Option 1)
kapunt broken type r as a project with a mint low wrx import auto donor car I foolishly bought before researching what it is was. I went too far down the deal and he's a mate... So it's now in my car family too.

Or

Option 2. she stays on my drive way for about 2 years under a tarp, under a lean too, while I save up £5000 for Brian Downie and his rebuild service.

In that time her arches will be extended, an FMIC will be mocked up. a race fuel cell and weld in cage will be purchased along the lines.

I'm not scared of getting stuck in. My arthritis generally tells me I've gone to far with something.
Engines however scare me.

Suggestions?

Kev.

Kevmc76

Hi kev if were you take option 2 if its a good one keep it till you have your baby then get it sorted thats my suggestion

BBB3

iTrader: (7)

As above, if a nice car keep and sort in time.

Cambelt always better to be safe than sorry, I had mine changed @33k it was last replaced at 24k just to be safe.

banny sti

iTrader: (68)

£5k for a rebuild, what does that include? As you could buy new age sti short block for around £1k and have the car back on the road for around £2k ish inc labour and parts.

HorneSTIR

Hi, guessing that's expensive.... Then. I'm use to building a series minis, just assumed that price was normal?

That was for, acl race bearings, sti 9? crank balanced crank, honed sleeves to match forged pistons and rods and rings. cleaned heads, machined mating faces, reground valves, uprated oil pump, timing belt, water pump, arp studs, new sump, baffled if I request it, break in oil, after run In Service. New oil. Was told to budget 5k as I wouldn't get a good build for 2k?

I will be putting up a lean too so it could get the car out from the elements. Keeping her seems like much more achievable thing now. Thanks.

banny sti

iTrader: (68)

For example this is what £5k would get you

https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-par...500-parts.html

HorneSTIR

Oh....
Where do you lads buy your parts from? As buying a newage block seems more affordable now than yesterday.

Now I don't need the wrx import auto...

banny sti

iTrader: (68)

Matty from Mb developments in the breakers section or if you want a refreshed one contact the guy who started this thread

https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-par...ort-motor.html

Dreep

I'd say first off don't get Brian Downies to build it. Far too much stuff coming out his place now with more problems than they have went in with. Look for BHP Developments if your from Aberdeen or surrounding areas.

You could opt for a newage STi bottom end to get you going again. They are a little more hardy than the early engines and won't break the bank. Only issue is your gambling with how it's been looked after I guess but it is an option. Then there's always the ability to go CDB forged whilst the newage engine is in so your not in any rush.

Kyle

rig-pig

option 3, fit a SCDB from a blob sti, wuz at BHP developments did this to my 98 type R along with cosworth head gaskets, new belt and pumps

HorneSTIR

Rig-pig, my option three was originally set on fire, plead ignorance. but I couldn't do that to a 3 dr. Cheers lads, I have a plan in motion thanks to 1809Joe, WMS racing will be getting my motor for a rebuild and upgrade at a very reasonable price compared to Brian's. I wasn't aware there were many issues with his builds...
managed to get some spring in my step after sourcing storage with a pit and engine lifter, power and water tight too.

I'll get the build thread going soon where you can follow if you want to. quick question though, the non gold 4 pots and 2 pot combo with grooved discs, braided stainless hoses and fast road pads...will they be ok with 450bhp non track use? or something else I need to replace with better spec items?

thanks again gents. greatly appreciated.

thanks

Kev.