Advice please (landrover freelander)
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Advice please (landrover freelander)
Hi guys,my other half is thinking of buying a freelander,you hear there known for the head gasket to go on the older ones.
the one she likes is a 56 plate diesel one,lowish milage and f.l.s.h
are the newer ones as bad or do they have any other problems?
any advice would be good,thanks
the one she likes is a 56 plate diesel one,lowish milage and f.l.s.h
are the newer ones as bad or do they have any other problems?
any advice would be good,thanks
#5
#6
2004 (onwards) TD4 HSE - all good - great spec, good levels of comfort, plenty of space and the facelift models are so much nicer to look at.
Faults: Boost solenoid can go (about £60 and 15 mins to replace), under arch fuel pump (about £120 and 45mins - worth doing the filter as well), there's various upgrades to various parts but the best is a RonBox (synergy) as it's controllable and will improve performance without killing MPG. Sunroof and rear door electrics can be dodgy if not used regularly but not difficult to replace the bits if they go.
+ves; BMW engine, chain so no belts to change, plenty of after-market suppliers, real 4x4 (as opposed to the new series of 2x4 like the Nissans), not the best tow vehicle in the world nor the best mudplugger but does what is was designed for very well with plenty of kudos.
I'm on my second bought for the misses and we're well pleased with it - allow about £6k for a decent spec lowish mileage.
That forum linked is for the Mk2 - too big, same engine problems and too expensive IMHO
Faults: Boost solenoid can go (about £60 and 15 mins to replace), under arch fuel pump (about £120 and 45mins - worth doing the filter as well), there's various upgrades to various parts but the best is a RonBox (synergy) as it's controllable and will improve performance without killing MPG. Sunroof and rear door electrics can be dodgy if not used regularly but not difficult to replace the bits if they go.
+ves; BMW engine, chain so no belts to change, plenty of after-market suppliers, real 4x4 (as opposed to the new series of 2x4 like the Nissans), not the best tow vehicle in the world nor the best mudplugger but does what is was designed for very well with plenty of kudos.
I'm on my second bought for the misses and we're well pleased with it - allow about £6k for a decent spec lowish mileage.
That forum linked is for the Mk2 - too big, same engine problems and too expensive IMHO
Last edited by LVC; 05 May 2013 at 10:00 AM.
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#9
I bought ours with 68k on the clock, 2004 facelift model, HSE in Black with cream leather, td4 with full service history and 1 owner form new for £5995 in January this year so you should be able to get one about the same still, maybe newer
The Sport and Sport Premium (that's what we had before) have bigger wheels and 3cm lower suspension but are quite fun and spec similar to the HSE. Avoid the basic models they lack in equipment to start with and are not always looked after as much.
Note: The auto boxes stay in sport mode from cold until the engine is warm (take higher revs to change gears) and they also have a fuel heater so if you start her up and then switch off after a minute or so expect to see "steam" to come out of a down pipe in front of the LHS front tyre - this is normal, don't panic.
Go drive one - if you're over 6 foot you'll find the front head height limited but I'm a little over 5'10" and no probs and the raised driving position is very comfortable.
The RonBox is £250 very well spent IMHO as an upgrade for later on or if you want to tow anything bigger than a wheelbarrow.
#10
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I don't like Hippos ( one of the better Freelander nicknames ). Thought I make that clear first
Mainly because they are flimsy for a 4x4...they don't crash well. And you you get people buying them because they think they are a "rugged Land Rovers". They aren't, you can trace back some of the chassis's origins to the Austin Maestro. Yes a Defender can trace its chassis back to a 1960's Range Rover - but that was strong and rugged (as long as it wasn't rusty), the Freelander 1 is not. Which is probably why they crumple up so badly on NCap tests and why the rear suspension arms tear off so easy if one should hit a large curb-sized object on a rutted track. Just something to bear in mind if you use it for child transport or off-roading.
My advise don't get so fixated on the BMW engine bit....just because one part is made by BMW doesn't suddenly mean the whole car is bomb proof. The BM M47R unit is good but does have its niggles too with sensors and injectors which can rack up unexpected repair bills too.
Anyhoo, if you do "have" to have one over and above all the other SUVs. Take it to a empty car park and put it on full lock and drive in a circle at maneuvering speed...if you hear/feel the transmission winding-up - noted by the tyres scrubbing and jumping as they suddenly slip and release the wound-up energy in the drivetrain (like a spring) . Then the VC unit is on its way out and putting the transfer gearbox under lots of strain guaranteeing it will fail sooner or later (even after you replace the VC...as being a secondhand car you don't know how long its been driven for in that state ).
And if you hear a big clunk/cracking noise from the back when driving...the rear subframe mountings are f**ked. This seems to be getting more and more common now as these cars get older and rustier. Not too hard to fix if you like welding A big clunk from the front suspension is usually the lower arm rear bushing - that's an easy to fix which you can do lying on your back (bit cold if its concrete though )
So what I'm saying is, try not to let "her" get so fixated on a Hippo. Its Ok(ish) if you get a good one, but there is better out there, especially if it doesn't "have" to be a 4x4.
Mainly because they are flimsy for a 4x4...they don't crash well. And you you get people buying them because they think they are a "rugged Land Rovers". They aren't, you can trace back some of the chassis's origins to the Austin Maestro. Yes a Defender can trace its chassis back to a 1960's Range Rover - but that was strong and rugged (as long as it wasn't rusty), the Freelander 1 is not. Which is probably why they crumple up so badly on NCap tests and why the rear suspension arms tear off so easy if one should hit a large curb-sized object on a rutted track. Just something to bear in mind if you use it for child transport or off-roading.
My advise don't get so fixated on the BMW engine bit....just because one part is made by BMW doesn't suddenly mean the whole car is bomb proof. The BM M47R unit is good but does have its niggles too with sensors and injectors which can rack up unexpected repair bills too.
Anyhoo, if you do "have" to have one over and above all the other SUVs. Take it to a empty car park and put it on full lock and drive in a circle at maneuvering speed...if you hear/feel the transmission winding-up - noted by the tyres scrubbing and jumping as they suddenly slip and release the wound-up energy in the drivetrain (like a spring) . Then the VC unit is on its way out and putting the transfer gearbox under lots of strain guaranteeing it will fail sooner or later (even after you replace the VC...as being a secondhand car you don't know how long its been driven for in that state ).
And if you hear a big clunk/cracking noise from the back when driving...the rear subframe mountings are f**ked. This seems to be getting more and more common now as these cars get older and rustier. Not too hard to fix if you like welding A big clunk from the front suspension is usually the lower arm rear bushing - that's an easy to fix which you can do lying on your back (bit cold if its concrete though )
So what I'm saying is, try not to let "her" get so fixated on a Hippo. Its Ok(ish) if you get a good one, but there is better out there, especially if it doesn't "have" to be a 4x4.
#11
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I have an , 06 reg, one of the last mk1 freelander td4 sport, had it 5 years, other than servicing it myself, I have not spent any other money on it. I like it, parts are cheap, goes well, roverron synergy box fitted,and egr mod done, averages 36 mpg around town, 40 on a run. the sport is slightly lower, 13mm in ride height, and has different springs,shocks and revised roll bars, to make them more road friendly, so I have been told, and great in the winter, heated seats, love the high seating position and parking sensors..lol
#12
I've had 2 diesels in the past, 1st was a 98my which was Rover engined and sounded like a tractor, the 2nd was a 56 plate TD4 sport which was great.
I also had the Synergy tuning box fitted and the egr delete which both made a lot of difference.
A standard TD4 has some hesitation and pulling out of junctions is a risky time as they seem to bog down - the tuning box cures this
When looking at FLs for sale check the tyres match as the ird is sensative to different makes/ tread depths.
Another common problem (happened to my 1st) is water leaking in through the rear door top seal, this then runs into the storage space under the rear false floor, check there for damp (mine used to have 3-4" of water sitting there like a goldfish bowl).
A common trick for dodgy dealers is to disconnect the rear wheel drive if there is a problem with the transfer box so you don't hear any noises but also only have 2 wheel drive (so i've read on some forums).
I also had the Synergy tuning box fitted and the egr delete which both made a lot of difference.
A standard TD4 has some hesitation and pulling out of junctions is a risky time as they seem to bog down - the tuning box cures this
When looking at FLs for sale check the tyres match as the ird is sensative to different makes/ tread depths.
Another common problem (happened to my 1st) is water leaking in through the rear door top seal, this then runs into the storage space under the rear false floor, check there for damp (mine used to have 3-4" of water sitting there like a goldfish bowl).
A common trick for dodgy dealers is to disconnect the rear wheel drive if there is a problem with the transfer box so you don't hear any noises but also only have 2 wheel drive (so i've read on some forums).
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